Things to do in Würzburg
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Museum im Kulturspeicher
In a born-again historic granary right on the Main River you'll find the Museum im Kulturspeicher. This fascinating museum has choice artworks from the 19th to the 21st centuries, with an emphasis on German Impressionism, neo-realism and contemporary art. It also houses the post-1945 constructivist works of the Peter C Ruppert Collection, a challenging assembly of computer art, sculpture, paintings and photographs.
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Dom St Kilian
Würzburg's Romanesque Dom St Kilian was built between 1040 and 1237, although numerous alterations have added Gothic, Renaissance and baroque elements. The row of elaborate pillar-mounted tombstones was hewn from red marble by Tilman Riemenschneider. Attached to the north transept is the festive Balthasar Neumann-designed Schönbornkapelle, the final resting place of the Schönborn bishops.
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Grafeneckart
Adjoining the Rathaus, the 1659-built Grafeneckart houses a scale model of the WWII bombing, which starkly depicts the extent of the damage to the city following the night of 16 March 1945, when 5000 citizens lost their lives. Viewing it before you climb up to the fortress overlooking the city gives you an appreciation of Würzburg's astonishing recovery.
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Schützenhof Beer Garden
For a drink with sun and a bucolic view, head for this delightful beer garden about 500m south of the Käppele chapel on the east bank of the Main. The main ingredients are ultra-fresh - listen for the farmyard animals protesting to the rear - and the beer (try the Balthasar Neumann) is served with a donkey-shaped Brezel (pretzel).
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Marienkapelle
Balthasar Neumann is buried in the late-Gothic Marienkapelle, built between 1377 and 1481, alongside numerous Franconian knights and burghers. Among them is Konrad von Schaumberg (died in 1499), for whom Riemenschneider designed the tombstone. The prolific sculptor produced the sandstone figures of Adam and Eve above the entrance portal.
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Käppele
In a prime location atop the Nikolausberg, the Käppele, built in 1752, is a triple onion-domed pilgrimage church designed by Neumann. The Stations of the Cross featuring life-size figures by Peter Wagner lead up to the church. The outside terrace is a great spot for photographs of the Marienberg and the city beyond.
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Hofgarten
Behind the Residenz, the Hofgarten has whimsical sculptures of children, mostly by court sculptor Peter Wagner. Concerts, festivals and special events take place here during the warmer months. Enter through intricate wrought-iron gates into the French- and English-style gardens, partly built on the old baroque bastions.
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Alte Mainmühle
Accessed straight from the old bridge, tourists and locals alike cram onto the double-decker terrace suspended above the Main River to savour modern twists on old Franconian favourites. Summer alfresco dining is accompanied by pretty views of the Festung Marienberg; in winter retreat to the snug timber dining room.
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Neumünster
In the Altstadt, the satisfyingly symmetrical Neumünster stands on the site where the ill-fated missionaries met their maker. The baroque interior has busts of the three martyrs (the three Irish missionaries - Kilian, Colonan and Totnan) on the high altar and the tomb of St Kilian in the crypt.
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Museum am Dom
Housed in a beautiful building by the cathedral, the Museum am Dom displays collections of modern art on Christian themes. Works of international renown by Joseph Beuys, Otto Dix and Käthe Kollwitz are on display, as well as masterpieces of the Romantic, Gothic and baroque periods.
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Kult
Enjoy a tailor-made breakfast, munch on cheap lunch or party to the wee hours at Würzburg's hippest cafe. The unpretentious interior with its salvaged tables and old beige benches hosts regular fancy-dress parties, table-football tournaments and other off-beat events. DJs take over at weekends.
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Juliusspital
This attractive Weinstube (traditional wine bar) features fabulous Franconian delicacies. The Juliusspital was first founded as a hospital in 1576 by Julius Echter von Mespelbrunn, whose name pops up everywhere in Würzburg. The basement has a cavelike bakery with a clutch of tables.
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Hofkirche
In the Residenz's south wing, the Hofkirche is another Neumann and Tiepolo co-production. Its marble columns, gold leaf and profusion of angels match the Residenz in its splendour and proportions. Hours vary here; check with information desk or tourist office.
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Mainfränkisches Museum
Mainfränkisches Museum in the baroque Zeughaus (armoury) contains a famous collection of works by local 15th-century master sculptor Tilman Riemenschneider. An exhibit on winemaking can be found in the Kelterhalle, where grapes once fermented.
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Alter Kranen
Franconia's superb wines - mostly whites - are bottled in the distinctive Bocksbeutel, a flattened teardrop-shaped flagon. You can sample some of the area's finest at the 1773 Alter Kranen beer garden and attached restaurant, Weingasthof am Alten Kranen.
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Gehrings
Live music often plays at this wonderfully local, owner-run pub, where Würzburgers of all ages tuck into fantastic Franconian potato-based dishes such as Rösti - fried potato cakes with toppings like sheep's cheese and broccoli.
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Zum Stachel
There's a restaurant at this 15th-century watering hole (a favourite haunt of Tilman Riemenschneider, among others), but better yet is to just enjoy a drink on one of its stone balconies overlooking the Romeo-and-Juliet-like Renaissance courtyard.
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Africa Festival
The Africa Festival is held on the meadows northwest of the river at Mainwiesen, complete with markets, food stalls and, if it rains, lots of mud. It's a 15-minute walk from the Hauptbahnhof, or take tram 2 or 4 to Talavera and follow the drums.
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Bürgerspital Weinstuben
The cosy nooks of this labyrinthine medieval place are among Würzburg's most popular eating and drinking spots. Choose from a broad selection of Franconian wines and wonderful regional dishes, including Mostsuppe, a tasty wine soup.
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Standard
Beneath a corrugated-iron ceiling and stainless-steel fans are newspaper racks, art and soulful jazz, with focaccias and pasta on the menu. Downstairs there's a second, dimly lit bar where bands and DJs perform a couple of times a week.
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Auflauf
At this always-busy, unpretentious place with blue-and-white décor and timber tables, you can order gratins and the signature Aufläufe (casseroles) à la carte or create your own from a checklist of ingredients.
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Backöfele
For romantic atmosphere, it's hard to beat this rustic restaurant set around a pretty courtyard. The menu features innovative twists on traditional game, steak and fish dishes. Marbled slabs of meat are grilled over the wood oven.
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Pleicher Hof
This cool cafe spreads Med-style vibes during the evening, with light meals and coffees being the favoured fare. In the cellar music bar the agenda goes for the jugular, with heavy garage, funk and amped-up student parties.
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Le Clochard Bistro
Warmed by an open fireplace, this cosy crêperie does authentic Breton galettes (savoury buckwheat crêpes) and sugar-dusted sweet crêpes, and also has a good selection of salads and pastas.
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Staatlicher Hofkeller Würzburg
Atmospherically housed in the cellar of the Residenz is a winery owned and run by the Bavarian government, Staatlicher Hofkeller Würzburg. It produces some exceptional wines; tours conclude with a tasting.
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