Things to do in Regensburg
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Dom St Peter
Regensburg's soaring landmark, the Dom St Peter ranks among Bavaria's grandest Gothic cathedrals. Construction dates from the late 13th century, but the distinctive filigree spires weren't added until the 19th century; the extravagant western facade from this period is festooned with sculptures. Inside are kaleidoscopic stained-glass windows above the choir and in the south transept. Another highlight is a pair of charming sculptures (1280), attached to pillars just west of the altar, which features the Angel Gabriel beaming at the Virgin on the opposite pillar as he delivers the news that she's with child.
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Steinerne Brücke
A veritable miracle of engineering in its time, the Steinerne Brücke was cobbled together between 1135 and 1146. For centuries it remained the only solid crossing along the entire Danube. According to legend, the bridge's crafty builder promised the devil the first soul to cross it if he let him beat the cathedral-builder who had bet on completing his church first. The bridge-builder won and hoodwinked Satan too, for the first to cross the bridge were a dog, a cat and a chicken.
An artificial canal now allows larger rivercraft to bypass its low arches.
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Schloss Thurn und Taxis
In the 15th century, Franz von Taxis (1459-1517) assured his place in history by setting up the first European postal system, which remained a monopoly until the 19th century. In recognition of his services, the family was given a new palace, the former Benedictine monastery St Emmeram, henceforth known as Schloss Thurn und Taxis. It was soon one of the most modern palaces in Europe, and featured such luxuries as flushing toilets, central heating and electricity. Tours include a look into the Basilika St Emmeram.
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Altes Rathaus
The seat of the Reichstag (parliament) from 1663 to 1803, Altes Rathaus is now home to Regensburg's three mayors, the tourist office and the Reichstagsmuseum. Tours take in the richly decorated Reichssaal (Imperial Hall) where the delegates convened, and also the stomach-turning torture chamber in the basement. Walk into the old holding cell and look down to the dungeon before entering the interrogation room which bristles with scary tools of the trade. Kids will either love it or freak out.
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Haus Heuport
Enter an internal courtyard (flanked by stone blocks where medieval torches were once extinguished) and climb up the grand old wooden staircase to this Gothic dining hall for front-row views of the Dom and culinary celebrations from sautéed tofu to raw minced smoked salmon. Reservations are advised for weekend breakfast, while in summer tables spilling out onto the square offer a less pricey bistro menu.
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Alte Kapelle
South of the Dom, the humble exterior of the graceful Alte Kapelle belies the stunning interior with its rich rococo decorations. The core of the church, however, is about 1000 years old, although the Gothic vaulted ceilings were added in the Middle Ages. The church is open only during services but you can always peek through the wrought-iron grill.
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Ostdeutsche Galerie
The Ostdeutsche Galerie opened in 1966 as a way to maintain a connection with Regensburg's neighbours behind the iron curtain. Today it celebrates wildly diverse contemporary art by artists from former Eastern Bloc communist countries. The museum backs onto the sprawling Stadtpark (City Park) - perfect for combining a visit with a picnic.
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Document Neupfarrplatz
The Document Neupfarrplatz explains events on the square from ancient times right up until the formation of the resistance movement in 1942-43. You can visit a Roman legionary fortress, Jewish houses and both Gothic and Romanesque synagogues. Tickets are only available from Tabak Götz at Neupfarrplatz 3.
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Porta Praetoria
Just north of Dom St Peter, the arched gate called Porta Praetoria is the most impressive reminder of Regensburg's Roman heritage. It was built in AD 179 by Emperor Marcus Aurelius as part of the Castra Regina fortress. To see more remains of the Roman wall, stroll along Unter den Schwibbögen.
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Restaurant Künstlerhaus
This striking open-plan space overlooking the river is filled with contemporary art produced by artists occupying the atelier above. Fresh, seasonal and locally sourced produce is prepared in creative ways - from sheep's cheese salad, to a sweet mustard and chocolate soufflé for dessert.
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Vitus
Colourful canvasses mix with ancient beamed ceilings at this bustling place serving provincial French food, including delicious Flammekuche (Alsatian-style pizza). Sit in the rustic bar area, the restaurant with linen-draped tables or the child-friendly café section.
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Basilika St Emmeram
Near the Schloss is a masterpiece by the Asam brothers, the Basilika St Emmeram. There are two giant ceiling frescoes and, sheltered in its crypt, the remains of Sts Emmeram, Wolfgang and Ramwold, all Regensburg bishops in the early days of Christianity.
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Spaghetteria
Get carbed up at this former 17th-century chapel where you can splatter six types of pasta with 23 types of sauce, and get out the door for the cost of a cocktail in Munich. The entrance fresco has a pasta-sucking character from Commedia dell' Arte.
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Kneitinger
This quintessential Bavarian brewpub is the place to go for some hearty home cooking (mains €5.80 to €15), delicious house suds and outrageous oompah frolics. It's been in business since 1530. Tours of its brewery are given Wednesday afternoons at 3pm.
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Dicker Mann
One of the oldest restaurants in town, this stylish, very traditional restaurant has dependable Bavarian food, swift service and a lively flair thanks to its young and upbeat staff. On a balmy evening, grab a table in the lovely beer garden out back.
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Spitalgarten
A veritable thicket of folding chairs and slatted tables by the Danube, this is one of the best places in town for some alfresco quaffing. It claims to have brewed beer (today's Spital) here since 1350, so it probably knows what it's doing by now.
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Schottenkirche St Jakob
The 12th-century main portal of the Schottenkirche St Jakob is considered one of the supreme examples of Romanesque architecture in Germany. Its reliefs and sculptures form an iconography that continues to baffle the experts.
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Augustiner
This popular fairy-lit beer garden and restaurant (meals €8 to €16) is ideally located in the heart of the city. The sprawling garden and cavernous interior is a fine place to leave your beer glass ring and pack away some gorgeous grub.
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Rosenpalais
If it's posh-nosh you're after, try this refined place just off Dachauplatz. Well-heeled clientele head upstairs to the graceful silver-service restaurant, wallet-watching gourmets stay downstairs. Either way the food is superb.
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Thurn und Taxis-Museum
The jewellery, porcelain and precious furnishings on display here belonged, for many years, to the wealthiest dynasty in Germany. The fortune, administered by Prince Albert II, is still estimated at well over €1 billion.
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Neue Film Bühne
Theatrical decor and the odd disco ball characterise this funky cafe-bar frequented by an eclectic crowd of students, yuppies and young families. In summer, the terrace overlooking Bismarckplatz is great for lounging.
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Café Orphée
This delightful brasserie, decked out in red velvet, dark wood and plenty of mirrors, is straight off a Parisian street. Pâtés, snacks, coffee or a light lunch all stem from a menu of appetising Gallic cuisine.
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Historische Wurstküche
Regensburg's finger-sized sausages have been grilled over beechwood and dished up with sauerkraut and sweet grainy mustard in this spot since 1135, purportedly making it the world's oldest sausage kitchen.
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Kaminski
Whether for afternoon coffee, a champagne breakfast or red wine with mussels, this self-assured cafe with pin-striped decor has something for everyone. Breakfast always has a classical soundtrack.
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Plaque
Oskar Schindler lived in Regensburg for years, and today one of his houses bears a plaque to his achievements commemorated in the Steven Spielberg epic Schindler's List.
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