Things to do in Passau
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Heilig-Geist-Ausstellungsraum
There may be no vineyards in this neck of the woods but - with a little divine intervention - the Heilig-Geist-Stift-Schenke (Holy Spirit Foundation) has been producing its own wine for centuries. Passau's most historic restaurant is actually part of a former Franciscan monastery. In 1358, a wealthy local family created a foundation here for the poor, where residents lived for free on the condition that they prayed for the family in the adjoining chapel.
To fund the foundation, the family established vineyards in Krems (then also part of the Habsburg Empire, and now in Austria). Wine was given to residents with meals as a gesture of respect (providing they kept up their p…
reviewed
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Residenzplatz
Pride of place on this showy square belongs to the 18th-century Neue Bischöfliche Residenz (New Bishop's Residence). Melchior Hefele, a student of Balthasar Neumann, drafted the stucco-draped façade, as well as the rococo staircase, which winds towards a wonderfully over-the-top ceiling fresco entitled The Gods of Olympus Protecting Immortal Passau.
The bishops resided in these splendid digs until 1871. Today, the diocese administration occupies most of the rooms, but several have been set aside for the Domschatz und Diözesanmuseum (Cathedral Treasury & Museum). The ecclesiastical finery - including monstrances, vestments, sculptures and paintings - exemplifies the weal…
reviewed
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Neue Bischöfliche Residenz
Pride of place on this showy square belongs to the 18th-century Neue Bischöfliche Residenz (New Bishop's Residence). Melchior Hefele, a student of Balthasar Neumann, drafted the stucco-draped façade, as well as the rococo staircase, which winds towards a wonderfully over-the-top ceiling fresco entitled The Gods of Olympus Protecting Immortal Passau.
The bishops resided in these splendid digs until 1871. Today, the diocese administration occupies most of the rooms, but several have been set aside for the Domschatz und Diözesanmuseum (Cathedral Treasury & Museum). The ecclesiastical finery - including monstrances, vestments, sculptures and paintings - exemplifies the weal…
reviewed
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Dom St Stephan
The characteristic green onion domes of Passau's otherwise whitewashed cathedral, the Dom, float serenely above the town silhouette. There has been a church on this spot since the 5th century, but the current baroque look emerged after the Great Fire of 1662. The interior was designed by a crew of Italian artists, notably the architect Carlo Lurago and the stucco master Giovanni Carlone. The frescoes show fascinating scenes of heaven, but the true masterpiece is the industrial-size church organ, one of the world's largest with a staggering 17,974 pipes. Organ recitals are held on weekdays at noon, and on Thursday at 7.30pm from May to October (adult/child €3/1 lunchtime, …
reviewed
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Rathaus
A short walk north of Residenzplatz, via Schrottgasse, is Passau's Rathaus , a grand Gothic building topped by its 19th-century landmark painted tower. A carillon chimes several times daily (hours are listed on the wall, alongside historical flood-level markers). The entrance on Schrottgasse takes you to the Grosser Rathaussaal (Great Assembly Room) where large-scale paintings by 19th-century local artist Ferdinand Wagner show scenes from Passau's history with melodramatic flourish.
If it's not being used for a wedding or a meeting, also sneak into the adjacent 'small assembly room' for a peek at the ceiling fresco which again features allegories of the three rivers.
reviewed
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Blue Danube Cycle
8 days (Passau)
Follow the waltz of the blue Danube from the medieval German charm town of Passau to grand Vienna.
Not LP reviewed
from USD$1,090 -
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Passauer Glasmuseum
Passauer Glasmuseum is the largest museum of Czech glass and crystal in the world and a magnet for Slavic cross-border raiders. Even if you charge through this amazing collection of over 30,000 pieces displayed in 380 cases, you'll need an hour to view the 36 rooms filled with baroque, classical, art nouveau and art-deco pieces. There's a luxury bedroom chamber right in the museum that's let to visiting VIPs as part of the adjacent Hotel Wilder Mann. Be sure to pick up a floor plan as it's easy to get lost.
reviewed
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Veste Oberhaus
A 13th-century defensive fortress, built by the prince-bishops, Veste Oberhaus towers over Passau with patriarchal pomp. Not surprisingly, views of the city and into Austria are superb from up here. Inside the bastion is the Oberhausmuseum, a regional history museum where you can uncover the mysteries of medieval cathedral building, learn what it took to become a knight and explore Passau's period as a centre of the salt trade. Displays are labelled in English.
reviewed
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Gasthof 3 Linden
Gleaming modular timber furniture and geometric floors give Gasthof 3 Linden a sleek retro feel. The credo here is 'the Bavarian sausage is the beer's best friend', but meatless dishes include spinach pasta in Gorgonzola cream sauce, and salads (say if you don't want them swimming in vinaigrette). Good kids' menu, too. Try the house cocktail of cold champagne, Innstadt beer and fresh fruit.
reviewed
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Glasmuseum
A splendid collection of more than 30,000 examples of Bohemian glasswork and crystal from over 250 years. If that doesn't do it for the transparently inclined, there's 36 rooms of baroque, classical, Art Nouveau and Art Deco pieces. Sneak a peek at the luxury chamber let to visiting VIPs of the Hotel Wilder Mann. And pick up a floor plan or you'll get lost.
reviewed
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Scharfrichter Kino
This lively cultural centre stages theatre and cabaret, including autumn's Passauer Kabarett-Tage (Passau Cabaret Days), a decades-old tradition of political satire that was sued and shut down by the establishment before the counterculture spurred its revival. It's best appreciated by German speakers with a knowledge of local political nuances and dialect.
reviewed
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Dreiflüsseeck
The tip of the Altstadt peninsula is known as the Dreiflüsseeck and is the only place from which you can actually see the Danube, Ilz and Inn all at once (except from above, that is). Benches and a small patch of grass make it a peaceful place to take time out from sightseeing, and kids can burn off some energy on the playground equipment.
reviewed
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Wurm + Köck
From March to early November, Wurm + Köck operate cruises to the Dreiflusseck from the docks near Rathausplatz, as well as a whole host of other sailings to places along the Danube. The four-hour evening cruise with live music and three-course dinner is a romantic experience.
reviewed
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Diwan
Climb aboard the high-speed lift from street level to this trendy, high-perched cafe-lounge with by far the best views in town. From the tangled rattan and plush cappuccino-culture sofas you can see it all - the Dom, the rivers, the fortress - while you tuck into the offerings of the changing seasonal menu.
reviewed
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Andorfer Weissbräu
High on a hill 1.5km north of the Altstadt, this rural beer garden attached to the Andorfer brewery serves filling Bavarian favourites, but the star of this show is the outstanding Weizen and Weizenbock ales brewed metres away. Take bus 7 from the ZOB to Ries-Rennweg.
reviewed
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Zi'Teresa Pizzeria
Theresienstrasse and its side streets are lined with cafes and restaurants and popular places to just hang out, such as Zi'Teresa. This lively, always-bustling Italian eatery attracts young and old to munch on generously topped pizzas and superb pastas.
reviewed
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Gasthaus zur Triftsperre
It's an easy and enjoyable 3km cycle (or stroll) along the Ilz River to this earthy beer garden and restaurant. Regulars are drawn by the homemade cakes and fresh trout. If you don't feel like pedalling back, you could rent one of the rooms.
reviewed
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Altes Bräuhaus
Comfort food in this traditional dark timber dining room includes pork schnitzel and Wammerl (smoked pork belly with bacon and sauerkraut), but there are also a handful of vegetarian dishes like mushroom soup with bread dumplings.
reviewed
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Zum Grünen Baum
Eccentric design touches such as a 'cutlery chandelier' adorn this quirky restaurant, which serves organic beer and wine and excellent desserts (ask for the unlisted 'variety platter'). The toy-filled back room is a winner with families.
reviewed
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Scharfrichter Haus
Cafe, cellar restaurant and jazz club rolled into one, this Passau institution draws a sophisticated crowd who enjoy seasonal specials on crisp white linen, before retiring to the intimate cabaret theatre with a glass of Austrian wine.
reviewed
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Heilig-Geist-Stiftsschänke
Traditional food is prepared with panache, and served either in the classy walnut-panelled tangle of dining rooms or the leafy beer garden, where hedges create separate dining areas. The candlelit stone cellar is open from 6pm.
reviewed
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The Danube by Bike & Boat
8 days (Passau)
Explore the highlights of the Danube by bike and aboard MS Theodor Körner.
Not LP reviewed
from USD$1,320 -
Danube Explorer to Budapest
8 days (Passau)
Journey by boat and ship through Austria and Hungary along the mighty Danube.
Not LP reviewed
from USD$1,320 -
Danube Cycle
14 days (Passau)
Cycle across three European borders to the romantic city of Budapest.
Not LP reviewed
from USD$2,160 -
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Café Kowalski
Chat flows as freely as wine or beer at this gregarious cafe, a kicker of a nightspot. The giant burgers, Schnitzels and salads are best sampled on the terrace overlooking the Ilz.
reviewed
