Sights in Passau
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Heilig-Geist-Ausstellungsraum
There may be no vineyards in this neck of the woods but - with a little divine intervention - the Heilig-Geist-Stift-Schenke (Holy Spirit Foundation) has been producing its own wine for centuries. Passau's most historic restaurant is actually part of a former Franciscan monastery. In 1358, a wealthy local family created a foundation here for the poor, where residents lived for free on the condition that they prayed for the family in the adjoining chapel.
To fund the foundation, the family established vineyards in Krems (then also part of the Habsburg Empire, and now in Austria). Wine was given to residents with meals as a gesture of respect (providing they kept up their p…
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Residenzplatz
Pride of place on this showy square belongs to the 18th-century Neue Bischöfliche Residenz (New Bishop's Residence). Melchior Hefele, a student of Balthasar Neumann, drafted the stucco-draped façade, as well as the rococo staircase, which winds towards a wonderfully over-the-top ceiling fresco entitled The Gods of Olympus Protecting Immortal Passau.
The bishops resided in these splendid digs until 1871. Today, the diocese administration occupies most of the rooms, but several have been set aside for the Domschatz und Diözesanmuseum (Cathedral Treasury & Museum). The ecclesiastical finery - including monstrances, vestments, sculptures and paintings - exemplifies the weal…
reviewed
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Neue Bischöfliche Residenz
Pride of place on this showy square belongs to the 18th-century Neue Bischöfliche Residenz (New Bishop's Residence). Melchior Hefele, a student of Balthasar Neumann, drafted the stucco-draped façade, as well as the rococo staircase, which winds towards a wonderfully over-the-top ceiling fresco entitled The Gods of Olympus Protecting Immortal Passau.
The bishops resided in these splendid digs until 1871. Today, the diocese administration occupies most of the rooms, but several have been set aside for the Domschatz und Diözesanmuseum (Cathedral Treasury & Museum). The ecclesiastical finery - including monstrances, vestments, sculptures and paintings - exemplifies the weal…
reviewed
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Dom St Stephan
The characteristic green onion domes of Passau's otherwise whitewashed cathedral, the Dom, float serenely above the town silhouette. There has been a church on this spot since the 5th century, but the current baroque look emerged after the Great Fire of 1662. The interior was designed by a crew of Italian artists, notably the architect Carlo Lurago and the stucco master Giovanni Carlone. The frescoes show fascinating scenes of heaven, but the true masterpiece is the industrial-size church organ, one of the world's largest with a staggering 17,974 pipes. Organ recitals are held on weekdays at noon, and on Thursday at 7.30pm from May to October (adult/child €3/1 lunchtime, …
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Rathaus
A short walk north of Residenzplatz, via Schrottgasse, is Passau's Rathaus , a grand Gothic building topped by its 19th-century landmark painted tower. A carillon chimes several times daily (hours are listed on the wall, alongside historical flood-level markers). The entrance on Schrottgasse takes you to the Grosser Rathaussaal (Great Assembly Room) where large-scale paintings by 19th-century local artist Ferdinand Wagner show scenes from Passau's history with melodramatic flourish.
If it's not being used for a wedding or a meeting, also sneak into the adjacent 'small assembly room' for a peek at the ceiling fresco which again features allegories of the three rivers.
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Passauer Glasmuseum
Passauer Glasmuseum is the largest museum of Czech glass and crystal in the world and a magnet for Slavic cross-border raiders. Even if you charge through this amazing collection of over 30,000 pieces displayed in 380 cases, you'll need an hour to view the 36 rooms filled with baroque, classical, art nouveau and art-deco pieces. There's a luxury bedroom chamber right in the museum that's let to visiting VIPs as part of the adjacent Hotel Wilder Mann. Be sure to pick up a floor plan as it's easy to get lost.
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Veste Oberhaus
A 13th-century defensive fortress, built by the prince-bishops, Veste Oberhaus towers over Passau with patriarchal pomp. Not surprisingly, views of the city and into Austria are superb from up here. Inside the bastion is the Oberhausmuseum, a regional history museum where you can uncover the mysteries of medieval cathedral building, learn what it took to become a knight and explore Passau's period as a centre of the salt trade. Displays are labelled in English.
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Glasmuseum
A splendid collection of more than 30,000 examples of Bohemian glasswork and crystal from over 250 years. If that doesn't do it for the transparently inclined, there's 36 rooms of baroque, classical, Art Nouveau and Art Deco pieces. Sneak a peek at the luxury chamber let to visiting VIPs of the Hotel Wilder Mann. And pick up a floor plan or you'll get lost.
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Dreiflüsseeck
The tip of the Altstadt peninsula is known as the Dreiflüsseeck and is the only place from which you can actually see the Danube, Ilz and Inn all at once (except from above, that is). Benches and a small patch of grass make it a peaceful place to take time out from sightseeing, and kids can burn off some energy on the playground equipment.
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Römermuseum
Across the Fünferlsteg Inn footbridge, in the Kastell Boiotro, is the Römermuseum, which depicts Passau's original settlement and hosts temporary shows with a Roman theme.
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Grosser Rathaus Saal
The Grosser Rathaus Saal has wonderful murals by local artist Ferdinand Wagner, showing scenes from Passau's history with a melodramatic flourish.
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Domschatz-und Diözesan-Museum
The Domschatz-und Diözesan-museum showcases a range of ecclesiastical finery that illustrates the power and wealth of the Church rulers.
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Museum Moderne Kunst
The Museum Moderne Kunst holds temporary exhibitions with both a local and international bent in a wonderful hodgepodge of buildings.
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Oberhausmuseum
Some of the best exhibits here uncover the mysteries of medieval castle-building and a knight's rites of passage.
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Heimatmuseum
The Heimatmuseum is in possession of a golden chalice and a skullcap that was used by Ratzinger in his private chapel in Rome, but is only open to groups of five or more. Visitors should call the tourist office at least a day ahead to arrange entry. His baptismal font can be viewed at the Pfarrkirche St Oswald, which is open for viewing except during church services.
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Geburtshaus
The pope's Geburtshaus is the simple but pretty Bavarian home where Ratzinger was born in 1927 and lived for the first two years of his life before his family moved to Tittmoning, another tiny Burg (castle). The exhibition kicks off with a film (in English) tracing the pontiff's early life, career and the symbols he selected for his papacy. You then head into the house proper where exhibits expand on these themes. The modest room where Ratzinger came into the world is on the upper floor.
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