Things to do in Bamberg
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Bolero
About 30 different tapas are the mainstay of this sprawling bodega. Rustic wooden tables and candlelight transport you straight to southern Spain, as does the beer garden's brio.
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Bassanese
Serves authentic Italian gelato, strudels and handmade chocolates to fans in wicker chairs on the cobblestones near the old town hall.
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Dom
Bamberg's princely and ecclesiastical roots are felt strongest around Domplatz on the southern bank of the Regnitz. The dominant structure is the soaring Dom, the result of a Romanesque-Gothic duel fought by church architects after the original edifice burnt down (twice) in the 12th century. Politics dictated the final floor plan, which was altered each winter during 20 years of building. The interior is renowned for its fine acoustics, and from May to October free 30-minute organ concerts take place at noon on Saturday.
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ETA-Hoffmann-Haus
The 18th-century writer and composer Ernst Theodor Amadeus (ETA) Hoffmann (1776-1822) is best known for using the fantastical and supernatural to probe the complexity of human experience. Hoffmann came to Bamberg in 1808 as the local theatre's music director, but lost his job after a disastrous first performance. He nevertheless stayed in town until 1813, working as a tutor and writer. His former home, ETA-Hoffmann-Haus, is now a small museum.
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Neue Residenz
Neue Residenz is a huge episcopal palace now housing a significant collection of baroque paintings. The 40-odd rooms vie with the artwork for your attention, especially the elaborately decorated Kaisersaal (Imperial Hall), where the ceiling is smothered in a complex allegorical fresco. The baroque Rosengarten (Rose Garden) behind the palace has fabulous views over Bamberg's red-tiled roofs.
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Schloss Concordia
After Böttinger's family of 14 outgrew the space three years later, he hired Johann Dietzenhofer to build the even grander Schloss Concordia, a moated palace a short walk south of Böttingerhaus. It's now the home of the Künstlerhaus Villa Concordia, a state-sponsored artists' residence, and is open during events and exhibits - the tourist office can let you know what's on when.
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Zum Sternla
Bamberg's oldest Wirtshaus (inn), Zum Sternla was established in 1380 and the camaraderie among its patrons has seemingly changed little in the intervening years. Bargain-priced staples include pork dishes, steaks, dumplings and sauerkraut, as well as specials, but it's a great, nontouristy place for traditional Brotzeit (snack), or just a pretzel and a beer.
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Böttingerhaus
Two of Bamberg's most beautiful baroque mansions are on the left bank in the southern Altstadt. Both are the former homes of wealthy privy councillor Ignaz Böttinger. The former, the 1713 Böttingerhaus, is a heavily ornamented grand Italian palazzo shoehorned into narrow Judenstrasse. Its interior is closed to visitors, but it rewards a photo stop from outside.
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Alte Hofhaltung
The Renaissance-style 1570 Alte Hofhaltung is a former prince-bishops' palace, built on the site of an 11th-century fortress. Its prettiest section is the inner courtyard surrounded by half-timbered, balconied buildings, reached via the Schöne Pforte (Beautiful Gate; 1573). In summer, the Calderón Festival takes place in the courtyard.
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Sammlung Ludwig Bamberg
For closer views, turning at the end of the Geyerswörthsteg then right again onto Obere Brücke brings you face to façade with the imposing tower, a baroque addition by Balthasar Neumann. It provides access to the precious porcelain and faïences - mostly from Strassbourg and Meissen - housed in the Sammlung Ludwig Bamberg.
reviewed
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Brewery Trail
Beer-lovers can brewery-hop and take in the city's sights en route on the Brewery Trail . The tourist office kits you out with a 36-page brochure with a map of the breweries, their history and detailed tasting notes for their brews, along with a stylish canvas day pack, vouchers for five half-litres of beer, and a proper ceramic stein.
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Kornblume
Don't be deterred by the crass decor at this family-run place 1.5km east of the centre, as the tasty food is lovingly prepared and strict organic and eco-friendly principles impeccably upheld. The menu reads like a vegetarian's antioxidant bible, though the occasional meat dish also makes an appearance. Take bus 5 to Wunderberg.
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Historisches Museum
Northwest of the Dom is the Alte Hofhaltung (old court hall), a former prince-bishops' palace that contains the Historisches Museum. The mixed bag of exhibits includes a model of the pilgrimage church Vierzehnheiligen and the Bamberger Götzen, ancient stone sculptures found in the region.
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Messerschmidt
In the house where plane engineer Willy Messerschmidt was born, this stylish gourmet eatery oozes old-world tradition, with dark woods, white linens and formal service. Dine out on the charming alfresco terrace overlooking a pretty park, or in the attached wine tavern with a more relaxed atmosphere.
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St Stephanskirche
Much of Franconia is Protestant (whereas the rest of Bavaria is predominantly Catholic). Bamberg's main Protestant church, St Stephanskirche was consecrated in 1020 by Pope Benedikt VIII and turned baroque in the 17th century at the hands of Giovanni Bonalino and Antonio Petrini.
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Diözesan Museum
On the south side of the Dom, in a separate building off the cloisters, is the Diözesan Museum. Top ranking among its ecclesiastical treasures goes to Heinrich II's Blue Coat of Stars, kept not far from the pontifical knee-socks of Clemens II.
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Mohren-Haus
Owner-run shops and one-off fashion boutiques are dotted throughout the Altstadt, such as Mohren-Haus, a 13th-century former pharmacy that's now a fragrant tea shop selling loose-leaf teas. Also in and around the Altstadt are some 30 antique stores.
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Wirtshaus Zum Schlenkerla
A local legend that's known nationwide, this dark, rustic 16th-century restaurant with long wooden tables serves tasty Franconian specialities and its own superb Rauchbier, poured straight from the oak barrel.
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Klosterbräu
This beautiful half-timbered brewery is Bamberg's oldest. It draws Stammgäste (regulars local drinkers) and tourists alike who wash down filling slabs of meat and dumplings with its excellent range of ales.
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Bayerische Staatsgalerie
Inside the Neue Residenz you'll find the Bayerische Staatsgalerie. Its strengths are in medieval, Renaissance and baroque paintings, with works by Anthony Van Dyck, Hans Baldung Grien and Cranach the Elder.
reviewed
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Konzert-und Kongresshalle
Classical music lovers should try to catch a concert by the famous Bamberger Symphoniker orchestra, which usually plays in the modern Konzert-und Kongresshalle, on the Regnitz north of the Altstadt.
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Brotladen
The owner of Brotladen drives to village bakeries all over the region early each morning to amass over 50 different types of bread. We leave it to you to create 50 different types of sandwich.
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Café am Dom
The best cakes in town are made and served at this appealing café, which also has a handful of guest rooms, and delicious pralines stamped with the insignia of the Bamberger Reiter.
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Ambräusianum
This outstanding brewpub does a killer Weisswurst breakfast - parsley-speckled veal sausage served with a big freshly baked pretzel and a Weissbier (€5.50).
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Spezial-Keller
Quite a hike out of town, but the superb Rauchbier served here is your reward, along with great views of the Dom and the Altstadt from the beer garden.
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