Things to do in Baden Württemberg
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Schloss
Sticking up above the Altstadt like a picture-book pop-up against a theatrical backdrop of wooded hills, the partly ruined, red sandstone Schloss is Heidelberg's heart-stealer. Palatinate princes, stampeding Swedes, Protestant reformers, raging fires and lightning bolts - this Gothic-Renaissance fortress has seen the lot. Its tumultuous history, story-book looks and changing moods have inspired the pens of Mark Twain and Victor Hugo as well as Turner's prolific paintbrush.
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Landesmuseum Württemberg
An archway leads to the turreted 10th-century Altes Schloss, where this museum homes in on regional archaeology and architecture. The historic booty comprises Celtic jewellery, neolithic pottery, diamond-encrusted crown jewels and rare artefacts. Time your visit to see, from the arcaded courtyard, the rams above the clock tower lock horns on the hour.
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Stadthaus
Designed by Richard Meier, the contemporary aesthetic of the concrete-and-glass Stadthaus is a dramatic contrast to the Münster. The American architect caused uproar by erecting a postmodern building alongside the city’s Gothic giant but the result is striking. The edifice stages exhibitions and events, and houses the tourist office and a cafe.
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Kloster Wiblingen
This one-time Benedictine monastery was founded in 1093 and rebuilt in the baroque style in the 1700s. Highlights of a visit include the splendid Bibliothekssaal (library hall), a rococo masterpiece in pink and green (in 1757 the monastery was in possession of 15,000 volumes, a huge number for the time). The late baroque/early classical Klosterkirche (Monastery Church) and a museum opened in 2006. An audioguide is available.
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Philosophenweg
A stroll along the Philosophenweg, on the hillside north of the Neckar River, provides a welcome respite from the tourist hordes. Leading through steep vineyards and orchards, the path offers those great views of the Altstadt and the castle that were such an inspiration to the German philosopher Hegel. It's a well-known lovers' haunt, and many a young local is said to have lost their heart (and virginity) along the walkway.
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Upper Danube Valley Nature Reserve
One word: wow. Theatrically set against limestone, cave-riddled cliffs, dappled with pine and beech woods that are burnished gold in autumn, and hugging the Danube's banks, the Upper Danube Valley Nature Reserve bombards you with rugged splendour. Stick to the autobahn, however, and you'll be none the wiser. To explore the nature reserve, slip into a bicycle saddle or walking boots, and hit the trail.
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Europa-Park
Germany’s largest theme park, 35km north of Freiburg near Rust, is Europe in miniature. Get soaked fjord-rafting in Scandinavia before nipping across to England to race at Silverstone, or Greece to unravel the mysteries of Atlantis. Aside from white-knuckle thrills, Welt der Kinder amuses tots with labyrinths and Viking ships. When Mickey waltzed off to Paris, Europa-Park even got their own mousy mascot, Euromaus.
Shuttle buses (hourly in the morning) link Ringsheim train station, on the Freiburg–Offenburg line, with the park. By car, take the A5 exit Rust (57b).
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Grabkapelle Württemberg
When King Wilhelm I of Württemberg's beloved wife Katharina Pavlovna, daughter of a Russian tsar, died at the tender age of 30 in 1819, the king tore down the family castle and built this domed burial chapel. The king was also interred in the classical-style Russian Orthodox chapel decades later. Scenically perched on a vine-strewn hill, the grounds afford long views down to the valley.
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Burg Hohenzollern
Rising dramatically from an exposed crag, its medieval battlements and silver turrets often veiled in mist, Burg Hohenzollern sure is impressive from a distance, but up close it looks more contrived. Dating to 1867, this neo-Gothic castle is the ancestral seat of the Hohenzollern family, the first and last monarchical rulers of the short-lived second German empire (1871-1918).
History fans should take a 35-minute German-language tour, which takes in towers, overblown salons replete with stained glass and frescoes, and the dazzling Schatzkammer (treasury). The grounds command tremendous views over the Swabian Alps.
Frequent trains link Tübingen, 28km distant, with…
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Fischerviertel
The charming Fischerviertel, Ulm’s old fishers’ and tanners’ quarter, is slightly southwest. Here beautifully restored half-timbered houses huddle along the two channels of the Blau River. Harbouring art galleries, rustic restaurants, courtyards and the crookedest house in the world – as well as one of the narrowest – the cobbled lanes are ideal for a leisurely saunter.
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Trinkhalle
Standing proud above a manicured park, this neoclassical pump room was built in 1839 as an attractive addition to the Kurhaus. The 90m-long portico is embellished with 19th-century frescoes of local legends. Baden-Baden’s elixir of youth, some say, is the free curative mineral water that gushes from a faucet linked to the Friedrichsbad spring. A cafe sells cups for €0.20, or bring your own bottle.
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Jesuitenviertel
Just east of Universitätsplatz is the Jesuitenviertel, an attractive little square dominated by the city's recently renovated former Jesuitenkirche (Jesuit church), built of red sandstone between 1712 and 1750. On the façade are statues of Christ, Faith (on the rooftop), St Ignatius Loyola and St Francis Xavier. The Schatzkammer (treasury) displays precious religious objects.
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Wilhelma Zoologisch-Botanischer Garten
Wilhelma Zoologisch-Botanischer Garten is a quirky mix of zoo and botanical gardens. Kid magnets include semi-striped okapis, elephants, penguins and a petting farm. Greenhouses sheltering tree ferns, camellias and Amazonian species are among the botanical highlights. Sniff out the gigantic bloom of the malodorous titan arum in the Moorish Villa.
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Mercedes-Benz Museum
A futuristic swirl on the cityscape, the Mercedes-Benz Museum takes a chronological spin through the Mercedes empire. Look out for legends like the 1885 Daimler Riding Car, the world’s first gasoline-powered vehicle, and the record-breaking Lightning Benz that hit 228km/h at Daytona Beach in 1909. There’s a free guided tour in English at 11am.
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Water Tower
Mannheim's fave symbol, its Wasserturm, stands on the highest point of Friedrichsplatz. This square is one of Europe's finest Art Nouveau architectural ensembles and is a popular spot to hang out in summer. The tower, constructed in 1888, was designed to hold 2000 cubic meters (2616 cubic yards) of water. It was pretty much destroyed in WWII then rebuilt.
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Jesuit Church
The Jesuitenkirche claims to be the largest in Mannheim and the finest Baroque church in SW Germany. Mozart lived in Mannheim for a year and praised its acoustics and atmosphere. A sumptuously ornate building, glowing with gold leaf, it was built between 1733 and 1760. Like the rest of the city, it suffered damage during WWII but has been fully restored.
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Weber
Jazzy beats play in this hip bistro, sporting a sleek interior with teak tables, olive-black colours and woven screens. Presented in a vinyl cover, the menu gives local flavours a Mediterranean twist - think ostrich filet with lemon Schupfnudeln (potato noodles). Brunch favourites include luxus Eier (luxury eggs) with truffle oil and parmesan.
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Délice
At this vaulted Michelin-starred restaurant, natural, integral flavours sing in specialities like medley of tuna with lemon vinaigrette and fried egg with parsnips and Périgord truffles. The sommelier will talk you through the award-winning riesling selection.
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Festspielhaus
Ensconced in an historic train station and fabled for its acoustics, the Festspielhaus is Europe's second biggest concert hall, seating 2500 theatre-goers, and a lavish tribute to Baden-Baden's musical heritage. Under the direction of Andreas Mölich-Zebhauser, the grand venue hosts a world-class program of concerts, opera and ballet.
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Kurpfälzisches Museum
The city-run Palatinate Museum has well-presented exhibits on Heidelberg’s eventful history and is especially strong on the Roman period – exhibits include original wood beams from a 3rd-century bridge. To learn about really ancient local life, check out the replica of the 600,000-year-old jawbone of Homo heidelbergensis (Heidelberg Man), unearthed about 18km southeast of here in 1907 (the original is stored across the river at the university’s palaeontology institute).
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Olivo
Young, sparky chef Nico Burkhardt works his stuff at Steigenberger’s Michelin-starred restaurant. The minimalist-chic restaurant is lauded for exquisitely presented, French-inspired specialities such as Breton turbot with celery, peanuts and Champagne foam.
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Museum Frieder Burda
A Joan Miró sculpture guards the front of this architecturally innovative gallery, designed by Richard Meier. The star-studded collection of modern and contemporary art, featuring works by Picasso, Gerhard Richter and Jackson Pollock, is complemented by temporary exhibitions, such as the recent retrospective of American surrealist William Copley.
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Rhein-Neckar Fahrgastschifffahrt
Offers boat trips up and down the Neckar. Free on your birthday. Boats dock on the south bank midway between the two Altstadt bridges.
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Schillerplatz
On the other side of the Renaissance Alte Kanzlei, south of Schlossplatz, lies cobbled Schillerplatz, where the poet-dramatist Friedrich Schiller is immortalised in bronze.
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Staatsgalerie
The neoclassical-meets-contemporary Staatsgalerie bears British architect James Stirling’s curvy, colourful imprint. Alongside big-name exhibitions, the gallery harbours a phenomenal collection of 20th-century art, showcasing works by Rembrandt, Picasso, Monet, Dalí and pop idols Warhol and Lichtenstein.
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