Things to do in Mannheim
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Mannheim Palace
The massive Mannheimer Schloss recently opened to great fanfare after being closed for five years for renovations. Built by Elector Carl Philipp from 1720 to 1760, it was his successor Carl Theodor who saw its completion and fostered fine arts, music, theatre and science and saw Mannheim reach its cultural zenith in the 18th century.
Subsequently host to legal courts, schools and as apartments for government officials, today most of the building, almost completely destroyed in WWII and rebuilt, houses the university.
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Schloss
Mannheim's trophy sight is the lemon-and-red sandstone Schloss, Germany's largest baroque palace. Soon after completion in 1760, Elector Karl Theodor moved his court to Munich. The recently restored state rooms are a baroque-gone-mad feast of stucco, marble, porcelain and chandeliers. Mythological gods dance across the walls of the frilly rococo Kabinettsbibliothek (library), while gilt-framed ancestors keep a beady eye on the Rittersaal (Hall of Knights).
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Water Tower
Mannheim's fave symbol, its Wasserturm, stands on the highest point of Friedrichsplatz. This square is one of Europe's finest Art Nouveau architectural ensembles and is a popular spot to hang out in summer. The tower, constructed in 1888, was designed to hold 2000 cubic meters (2616 cubic yards) of water. It was pretty much destroyed in WWII then rebuilt.
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Jesuit Church
The Jesuitenkirche claims to be the largest in Mannheim and the finest Baroque church in SW Germany. Mozart lived in Mannheim for a year and praised its acoustics and atmosphere. A sumptuously ornate building, glowing with gold leaf, it was built between 1733 and 1760. Like the rest of the city, it suffered damage during WWII but has been fully restored.
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Kunsthalle
On Friedrichsplatz' southern side is the acclaimed Kunsthalle, a vast repository of modern and contemporary art by masters such as Cézanne, Degas Manet, Kandinsky and Rodin. The permanent collection is sometimes stored away to make space for blockbuster exhibitions.
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Café Prag
In former lives a tailor's shop and cigar store, Jugendstil Café Prag is now an arty cafe with cranberry-red walls and a boho feel. The jazz is as smooth as the espresso and as sweet as the legendary rhubarb cake and raspberry tart. A Mannheim must.
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Luisenpark
When the sun shines, locals flop on the banks of the Neckar in the Luisenpark, a green spine taking in hothouses, gardens, a butterfly hall, an aquarium and a Chinese teahouse.
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Taksim
There's often a snaking queue for the goodies at this Turkish patisserie. Wait your turn for spinach-cheese gözleme cooked fresh in front of you, savoury pides and sticky baklava.
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Christuskirche
Stepping northeast of Friedrichsplatz, the neobaroque Christuskirche, topped by a green dome, has a distinctive outline and is exactly 5m higher than the Wasserturm.
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Nationaltheater Mannheim
The granddaddy of Mannheim's performing arts scene, this theatre has been going strong for 300 years and staged Schiller's first major play, Die Räuber (The Robbers).
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Gasthaus Zentrale
Once a student dive, this rustic gastro pub rustles up decent pizza and steaks, and has a warm-weather beer garden. It's three blocks east of Paradeplatz.
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Fernmeldeturm
A revolving restaurant is skewered to the 212m-high spike of the Fernmeldeturm. Take tram 5 to get there.
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Jesuitenkirche
While you're in a baroque mood, make for the lavishly frescoed Jesuitenkirche.
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