Sights in Heidelberg
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A
Deutsches Apothekenmuseum
Infinitely more fun than science lessons, the Deutsches Apothekenmuseum, off the courtyard, explores chemistry and pharmacology in centuries past. Look out for the hands-on kids' pharmacy (healthy tea anyone?) and miracle cures from opiates to, hmmm, unicorn. With a capacity of more than 220,000L, the 18th-century Grosses Fass (Great Vat) is the world's largest wine cask, shaped from 130 oak trees. Describing it as being 'as big as a cottage', Mark Twain bemoaned its emptiness and mused on its possible functions as a dance floor and gigantic cream churn.
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Studentenkarzer
From 1778 to 1914, students convicted of misdeeds, such as womanising, inebriation or freeing the local pigs, were tossed into the Studentenkarzer, behind the Alte Universität, where they were detained for at least three days and fed only bread and water. Delinquents doing more time could interrupt their sentence for critical reasons (say, to take exams). In certain circles, a stint in the Karzer was de rigueur to prove one's manhood. Judging by the inventive graffiti and inscriptions, some found their stay highly entertaining.
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C
Ruprecht-Karls-Universität
Despite witty observations about boisterous student duels and drunkenness, Mark Twain points out that 'idle students are not the rule' in Heidelberg in his 1880 novel A Tramp Abroad. Indeed Germany's oldest university, Ruprecht-Karls-Universität, established in 1386 by Count Palatinate Ruprecht I, has plenty of gravitas with a student hall of fame starring composer Robert Schumann and chancellor Helmut Kohl. Today it comprises 18 faculties with 32,000 students from 80 nations.
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Schloss
Sticking up above the Altstadt like a picture-book pop-up against a theatrical backdrop of wooded hills, the partly ruined, red sandstone Schloss is Heidelberg's heart-stealer. Palatinate princes, stampeding Swedes, Protestant reformers, raging fires and lightning bolts - this Gothic-Renaissance fortress has seen the lot. Its tumultuous history, story-book looks and changing moods have inspired the pens of Mark Twain and Victor Hugo as well as Turner's prolific paintbrush.
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E
Jesuitenviertel
Just east of Universitätsplatz is the Jesuitenviertel, an attractive little square dominated by the city's recently renovated former Jesuitenkirche (Jesuit church), built of red sandstone between 1712 and 1750. On the façade are statues of Christ, Faith (on the rooftop), St Ignatius Loyola and St Francis Xavier. The Schatzkammer (treasury) displays precious religious objects.
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Kurpfälzisches Museum
Tucked behind a courtyard, the intriguing Kurpfälzisches Museum condenses regional history. Among the highlights are 15th- to 20th-century paintings, Roman and Merovingian artefacts and a copy of the 600,000-year-old Heidelberg Man's jawbone (the original is stored across the river at the palaeontology centre).
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Heiliggeistkirche
The Heiliggeistkirche on the old market square, is a superb old Gothic church (1398-1441). From 1706 to 1936 there was a wall between the part used by Protestants and that used by Catholics; today, it's a Protestant place of worship. You can climb the 204 steps to the top of the church spire.
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H
Königstuhl
The upper section of the Bergbahn (funicular railway) uses rail cars dating from 1907. From the Schloss, it continues up to the Königstuhl (altitude 550m - over 400m above the Altstadt), where there's a view and a TV tower. The return fare includes a stop at the Schloss.
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Brass Monkey
On the Altstadt, at the entrance to the bridge side, is a statue of a Brass Monkey holding a mirror and surrounded by mice: touch the mirror for wealth, the outstretched fingers to ensure you return to Heidelberg and the mice to ensure you have many children.
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Botanischer Garten der Universität
Orchids, ferns and Madagascan succulents thrive in the verdant Botanischer Garten der Universität, part of the university's largest campus area. Take tram 4 or 5 to reach the garden, around 1km north of the Hauptbahnhof.
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Bergbahn
To get up to the Schloss you can either take the Bergbahn, with its spanking new cars, from the Kornmarkt station on Zwingerstrasse; or walk up the steep, cobbled Burgweg (about 10 minutes), right next to the Bergbahn station.
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Universitätsbibliothek
A block south of Alte Aula, the Universitätsbibliothek, built from 1901 to 1905, displays rare books and prints from its superb collections in the upstairs corner Ausstellungsraum.
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Märchenparadies
Children adore the kitschy cuteness of Märchenparadies, a mini-theme park with gentle rides, play areas and fairy-tale characters from Snow White to Rumpelstiltskin.
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Karl-Theodor-Statue
Up on the bridge, through the tower, is the Karl-Theodor-Statue, which makes reference to the local legend that the prince fathered almost 200 illegitimate children.
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Thingstätte
Up atop the Heiligenberg is the Thingstätte, a Nazi-era amphitheatre. There are several ruins and countless other hiking options in the surrounding hills.
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Alte Aula
A ticket to the Studentenkarzer gets you into the Alte Aula and an exhibition on the university's history, inside the Alte Universität.
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Hercules Fountain
In the centre of Marktplatz is the Hercules fountain; in medieval times petty criminals were chained to it and left to face the populace.
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Zoo Heidelberg
The delightful Zoo Heidelberg, just off the Neckar a bit west of the botanical garden, features animals from five continents.
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Schlossgarten
Behind the Schloss, the Schlossgarten is a delightful place for a stroll.
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