Sights in Baden Baden
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Baden-Baden Theater
The Baden-Baden Theater is a neo-baroque confection of white-and-red sandstone whose frilly interior looks like a miniature version of the Opéra-Garnier in Paris. It forms the gateway to Lichtentaler Allee, an elegant park promenade which follows the flow of the Oosbach from Goetheplatz, adjacent to the Kurhaus, to Kloster Lichtenthal about 3km south.
Even today, it's not hard to imagine the movers and shakers of 19th-century Europe - aristocrats, diplomats, artists and writers - taking leisurely strolls along this fragrant avenue.
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Lichtentaler Allee
This 2.3km ribbon of greenery, threading from Goetheplatz to Kloster Lichtenthal, is quite a picture: studded with fountains and sculptures and carpeted with flowers (crocuses and daffodils in spring, magnolias and azaleas in summer). Shadowing the sprightly Oosbach, its promenade and bridges are made for aimless ambling.
The gateway to Lichtentaler Allee is Baden-Baden Theater, a neo-baroque confection whose grandiose interior resembles the Opéra-Garnier in Paris. About 1km south is the Gönneranlage, a rose garden ablaze with more than 400 varieties. Almost Siberian is the Russische Kirche, slightly to the east. Built in the Byzantine style in 1882, it’s topped with a…
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Casino
Marlene Dietrich called it 'the most beautiful casino in the world'. Indeed, inside the palatial Kurhaus (besides lavish festival halls) is the flashy casino, reminiscent of a 1970s Bond film. Built in 1838, its decor sought to outdo France's Versailles palace. The Florentiner Saal with its chandelier fleet is also called the 'Hall of The Thousand Candles'.
You need your passport or European national ID card to enter. Games include French and American roulette, baccarat, blackjack and poker.
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Trinkhalle
Standing proud above a manicured park, this neoclassical pump room was built in 1839 as an attractive addition to the Kurhaus. The 90m-long portico is embellished with 19th-century frescoes of local legends. Baden-Baden’s elixir of youth, some say, is the free curative mineral water that gushes from a faucet linked to the Friedrichsbad spring. A cafe sells cups for €0.20, or bring your own bottle.
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Museum Frieder Burda
A Joan Miró sculpture guards the front of this architecturally innovative gallery, designed by Richard Meier. The star-studded collection of modern and contemporary art, featuring works by Picasso, Gerhard Richter and Jackson Pollock, is complemented by temporary exhibitions, such as the recent retrospective of American surrealist William Copley.
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Kurhaus
Corinthian columns and a frieze of mythical griffins grace the belle époque facade of the monumental Kurhaus, which towers above well-groomed gardens. An alley of chestnut trees, flanked by two rows of boutiques, links the Kurhaus with Kaiserallee.
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Neues Schloss
A vine-enveloped staircase twists up from Marktplatz to the Neues Schloss, the former residence of the margraves of Baden-Baden, with a far-reaching vista over the Black Forest.
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Stadtmuseum
The Stadtmuseum, just south of Museum Frieder Burda, timelines Baden-Baden's past with exhibits from Roman figurines to belle époque paintings and roulette wheels.
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Kloster Lichtenthal
Lichtentaler Allee concludes at the Kloster Lichtenthal, a Cistercian abbey founded in 1245, with an abbey church where generations of the margraves of Baden lie buried.
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Römische Badruinen
The beauty-conscious Romans were the first to discover the healing properties of Baden-Baden’s springs in the city they called Aquae Aureliae. Slip back 2000 years on a tour of the well-preserved ruins of their baths.
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Stiftskirche
The centrepiece of cobbled Marktplatz is this pink church, a hotchpotch of Romanesque, late Gothic and, to a lesser extent, baroque styles. Its foundations incorporate some ruins of the former Roman baths. Come in the early afternoon to see its stained-glass windows cast rainbow patterns across the nave.
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Kunsthalle
Voluptuous Joan Miró sculptures guide the eye to the sky-lit Kunsthalle, which hosts rotating exhibitions of contemporary art.
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Russische Kirche
The Byzantine-style 1882 Russische Kirche, slightly east of Gönneranlage, is topped with a brilliantly golden onion dome.
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Rosenneuheitengarten
For a panoramic vista of Baden-Baden, head to the Rosenneuheitengarten, on the Beutig hilltop 800m southwest of the Kurhaus.
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Staatliche Kunsthalle
Sidling up to the Museum Frieda Burda is this sky-lit gallery, which showcases rotating exhibitions of contemporary art in neoclassical surrounds. Recently it zoomed in on Belgian visual artist Jan de Cock, postmodern painter Georg Baselitz and the collage-style works of Kenyan artist Wangechi Mut.
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Paradies am Annaberg
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Gönneranlage
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Florentinerberg
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Casino
The sublime casino seeks to emulate – indeed, outdo – the gilded splendour of Versailles. Marlene Dietrich called it ‘the most beautiful casino in the world’. Gents must wear a jacket and tie. If you’re not much of a gambler and want to simply marvel at the opulence, join a guided tour.
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Kurhaus & Casino
Corinthian columns and a frieze of mythical griffins grace the belle époque facade of the Kurhaus, which towers above well-groomed gardens. An alley of chestnut trees, flanked by two rows of boutiques, links the Kurhaus with Kaiserallee.
Inside is the sublime casino, which seeks to emulate the gilded splendour of Versailles. Marlene Dietrich called it ‘the most beautiful casino in the world’. Gents must wear a jacket and tie, rentable for €8 and €3 respectively. If you’re not a gambler and don’t fancy dressing up, join a 25-minute guided tour of the opulent interior.
reviewed
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