Things to do in Western Georgia
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Gelati Monastery
Gelati Monastery was founded by King David the Builder in 1106 as a centre for both Christian culture and Neo-Platonist learning. King David invited scholars such as Iaone Petritsi and Arsen Ikaltoeli to teach here and the Gelati Academy became, according to medieval chroniclers, 'a second Jerusalem' and 'another Athos, albeit superior to it'. Many Georgian rulers were buried here, including David the Builder himself, Queen Tamar (according to her chronicler, although this is disputed) and Bagrat III of Imereti.
In 1510 the Ottoman Turks set fire to the complex, but Bagrat III subsequently restored the monastery, and it was made the seat of a bishop and the residence of t…
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Cathedral of the Virgin
The interior of the main Cathedral of the Virgin is among the brightest and most colourful in Georgia. Among the frescoes, painted at various times between the 12th and 18th centuries, note especially the line of eight noble figures in the north transept: these include David the Builder (holding the church) and Bagrat III (with a cross over his left shoulder). Across the corner to the right of David are the Byzantine emperor Constantine and his wife Helena.
The apse holds a famous 1130s mosaic of the Virgin and Child, with Archangels Michael and Gabriel to the left and right respectively. The lower part of this was restored in the Soviet era by painting.
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Palace-itadel
The ruined Palace-itadel immediately east of the Bagrati Cathedral dates from the 6th century and in the 17th century was still reported by French and Russian travellers to be massively impressive. In 1769 King Solomon I of Imereti and the Russian General Todtleben bombarded the castle (which was then occupied by the Turks) from Mtsvane Kvavila hill across the river, reducing it to a ruin.
What remains is still of interest: you can see wine cellars at the west end of the palace, a church in the middle, and parts of the medieval walls.
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Dadiani Museum
The palace of the Dadiani family (old lords of Samegrelo), a castle-like building from the 17th to 19th centuries in a park 500m beyond the north end of Zviad Gamsakhurdia, is now the Dadiani Museum. The most unusual exhibit is one of Napoleon Bonaparte’s three bronze death masks, acquired via a 19th-century marriage between a Dadiani and a descendant of Napoleon’s sister. The wooded botanical gardens beside the park are worth a stroll.
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synagogue
Kutaisi used to have one of Georgia's largest Jewish communities but since independence most of the 1000 or so families have emigrated to Israel. A handsome 1880s synagogue in the old Jewish district is still in use, but the smaller synagogue (Gaponov 49) further up the street is now disused.
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Europa+
The best restaurant in the centre, with neatly set tables and colourful murals. Go elsewhere, though, if you want to avoid live music with your dinner. It’s in the corner of a courtyard set back from the street, and a cocktail bar and a beer bar are part of the same establishment.
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Club Almano
A smarter, modestly kitsch place just off Davit Aghmasheneblis moedani. It’s a restaurant-cum-bar with a blue-lit mezzanine and tasty Georgian dishes. For a solid main dish, the ojakhuri (made from roasted meat and potatoes) is a good bet.
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David the Builder's grave
To the left of the ruins of the Academy, inside the South Gate, lies David the Builder's grave. David gave orders that he be buried here so that all who entered the monastery would step on his huge 3m tomb, a notably humble gesture for such a powerful man.
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market area
Every visitor to Kutaisi will want to see Bagrati Cathedral, while those with more time will enjoy visiting the History Museum, wandering the busy market area around Lermontov and exploring the attractive central streets and the old Jewish district.
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Restaurant Diaroni
For a satisfying full meal with friendly, efficient service, look no further than this atmospheric cellar-like place. A full range of Georgian and Russian dishes is on offer and there’s an English-language menu.
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Bagrati Cathedral
If you cross the Chachvis Khidi you can walk up cobbled streets lined with attractive houses and gardens to the magnificent ruins of the 11th-century Bagrati Cathedral on Ukimerioni Hill.
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Delikatessen
This bright, new, brick-arched place specialises in good khachapuri and there are large photos to help you decide which variety you fancy. It also does cakes, desserts and Georgian pastries.
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Mtsvane Kvavila Monastery
From the old Jewish district Gaponov leads on up to the hill to the Mtsvane Kvavila Monastery, with three churches and the Pantheon where famous Kutaislebi (denizens of Kutaisi) are buried.
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Academy
Near the Church of St Nicholas are the roofless remains of the Academy where philosophy, theology, sciences and painting were studied and important chronicles and translations written.
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Church of St Nicholas
Outside the Cathedral of the Virgin's west door is the smaller Church of St Nicholas, built on top of an unusual arcaded base, and beyond that, the roofless remains of the Academy.
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Café Exotica
A popular spot for Georgian fast food, including some of the best Adjaran khachapuri this side of Batumi. The prices are unbelievably cheap.
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Kutaisi History Museum
This museum, facing Davit Aghmasheneblis moedani, has superb collections from all around western Georgia and is well worth your time.
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Sukhumi Fort
Sukhumi Fort, on the seafront just west of ulitsa Sakharova, is a Russian rebuilding of a Turkish fort built on the site of a Roman one.
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Abkhazian State Museum
The Abkhazian State Museum, with archaeological, historical and ethnographic collections, is well worth visiting.
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Park Slavy
Park Slavy, between prospekt Mira and ulitsa Lakoba, is the burial site of many Abkhaz dead from the 1992-93 fighting.
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Nartaa
Travellers have recommended the Nartaa for its excellent Abkhazian food at minuscule prices.
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Sukhumi Hill
Sukhumi Hill, 200m high in the northeast of the city, gives good panoramas and much of it is a woodland park.
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Shore
Shore, with Georgian food served at indoor and outdoor tables, is a good bet.
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Restoran San-Remo
Hotel Ritsa houses the fanciest place to eat, Restoran San-Remo, with an international menu.
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