Things to do in The Mountains
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Mutso
From Shatili the track continues 3km northeast to the border of Chechnya. Before the border you'll encounter a 'No Entry' sign, but you can turn south up the Andaki valley to almost-empty Mutso , about 8km from Shatili. Mutso's roofless old village on a very steep rock pinnacle across the river is one of the most spectacular in Khevsureti, with large stone tombs in which you can see human skulls.
Ardoti is 6km further up the valley beyond Mutso. From Andaki (uninhabited), a similar distance beyond Ardoti, begins the very steep route over the 3431m Atsunta Pass into Tusheti.
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Tsminda Sameba Church
The 14th-century Holy Trinity Church above Kazbegi at 2200m has become something of a symbol of Georgia - its beauty, piety and the fierce determination to build it on such a lofty, isolated perch are all emblematic of the country and its people. The walk up to the church and the panoramas this affords are a highlight of Georgia.
In 1988 the Soviet authorities constructed a cable-car line to the church, with one station in Kazbegi and the other right next to Tsminda Sameba. The people of Kazbegi quite rightly felt this defiled their sacred place and soon destroyed it. You can still see its base in the village, almost behind the Alexander Kazbegi Museum.
It takes about 1½ h…
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Gergeti Glacier
If you're up for another 900m of ascent from Tsminda Sameba, this quite strenuous walk rewards with spectacular views. The path heads straight up the ridge behind the church; an alternative route, more protected on windy days, runs up the left flank of the ridge.
The two meet at a cairn at 2960m altitude, from where a path leads on up towards the left side of the Gergeti (Ortsveri) Glacier as it snakes its way down from Mt Kazbek. Head up here for about one hour for views of the glacier, then return. You'll need about nine hours to get up there from Kazbegi and down again the same day.
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Walk to the Cross
A moderately demanding half-day walk that many people do without a guide is up to the Cross, visible 900m above Mestia on the north side of the valley (actually just a single pole at research time). The views get better as you go, and from the Cross you can see the spectacular twin peaks of Mt Ushba (4710m), Georgia's toughest and most dangerous mountaineering challenge. From Mestia's central square walk 450m east along the main street then take the lane up to the left.
Take the uphill option at all junctions. You pass under an arch after about 350m, and after 150m more the street becomes a footpath: follow this up and after 800m it bends to the right across the hillside,…
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Alexander Kazbegi Museum
Alexander Kazbegi (1848-93) made the unusual decision to become a shepherd after studying in Tbilisi, St Petersburg and Moscow. Later he worked as a journalist and wrote the novels and plays that made him famous. At the end of his life he suffered from insanity. He died in Tbilisi, but his coffin was carried back to Kazbegi. His museum is a five-minute walk north from the main square.
You first come to a church, dated 1809-11, with a striking relief of two lions with a chain above its door. To its east and west are two structures that look like bell towers but are actually the tombs of Alexander's father and mother. The writer's own grave lies under a large stone sculptur…
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Barisakho
The road to Khevsureti turns northeast off the Georgian Military Highway shortly before the Zhinvali Reservoir and runs up the Pshavis Aragvi valley to the villages of Barisakho and Biso, before turning east (now a jeep track) and over the high Datvis-Jvari Pass (open from about June to October), and then northeast down the Argun valley to Shatili, the main village of inner Khevsureti. Barisakho, about 100km from Tbilisi, is the largest village of the region, with a population of about 200.
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Walking
Walking routes are innumerable. Omalo to Shenakho and Shenakho to Diklo are two good short walks of a couple of hours each (one-way). A good route of about five days starts in Omalo or Shenakho, runs up the Pirikiti Alazani valley to Dartlo and Chesho, then crosses the 2900m Nakaicho Pass over to Verkhovani in the Gomtsari Alazani valley, and returns down the Gomtsari Alazani.
If you prefer to ride, horses are available in Omalo and Shenakho for between 35 GEL and 70 GEL per day.
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Shatili
Some 8km past Gudani comes the Datvis-Jvari Pass (2876m), from which it's 18km northeast to Shatili. Shatili's old town, built between the 7th and 13th centuries, is an agglomeration of tall towers clinging together on a rocky outcrop to form a single fortress-like whole. The old town was abandoned between the 1960s and '80s, and the new village, of about 20 houses, is just around the hill. But several towers have recently been restored and one contains a museum.
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Walk to Ushguli
You can spend a lovely three days walking to Ushguli if you start by taking a jeep as far as Ipari (Nakipari on some maps), about 20km southeast of Mestia. From Ipari the first stage takes you to Adishi, where you can sleep at Zhora Kaldani's homestay. The second day is from Adishi to Iprari, where there are rooms at Ucha Margvelani's.
On the third day it's three or four hours' walk from Iprari to Ushguli.
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Trekking
The track up the Pirikiti Alazani valley beyond Chesho, through Parsma and Girevi, eventually leads to the 3431m Atsunta Pass, a very steep and demanding route over into Khevsure. It's a one-week trek all the way from Shenakho or Omalo to Shatili in Khevsureti.
If you prefer to ride, horses are available in Omalo and Shenakho for between 35 GEL and 70 GEL per day.
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Walk to Chalati Glacier
The walk to the Chalati Glacier is a lovely route, taking you out past Mestia's airstrip and up the Mestiachala valley. The last section is up through woods to the foot of the glacier. Watch out for rocks falling off the glacier in summer. This route is a nine- or 10-hour round-trip including stops. There is a border-guard checkpoint en route, so take your passport.
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Museum of History & Ethnography
Despite security problems, the Svans are reluctant to see their amazingly rich treasury of religious items moved from the villages, but this museum’s collection is comprehensive, and labelled in English as well as Georgian, so it’s the best place to get an overall idea of the glories of Svanetian art.
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Korsha Museum
At Korsha, 2km past Barisakho, there's a small but interesting museum of Khevsur life, with armour, weapons, agricultural implements and the art of its curator, Shota Arabuli. From Korsha it's about a 7km walk up to Roshka, a small, muddy village off the main road, on the route towards the Roshka (Chaukhi) Pass.
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Keseloebi
Most of the villages in Tusheti are around 2000m above sea level and have picturesque settings, either sitting above near-sheer hillsides or nestling down by one of the rivers. There's a particularly splendid group of old towers, known as Keseloebi, on top of the crag at Zemo Omalo, the upper part of Omalo.
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Eteri Jorjoliani
Most homestays can arrange guides and jeep transport. An experienced and well-recommended English-speaking guide here, both for hikes and for visits to Svaneti's churches, is Eteri Jorjoliani.
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Shenakho
Shenakho, a few kilometres east of Omalo, is one of the prettiest villages, with its houses of stone, slate and rickety wooden balconies grouped around Tusheti's only functioning church.
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Dartlo
Dartlo, about 12km northwest of Omalo in the Pirikiti Alazani valley, has a spectacular tower grouping, overlooked by the single tall lookout tower of Kvavlo on the hill 350m above.
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Walks from Mazeri
Mazeri village, 1600m high in the Dolra valley, northwest of Mestia, is another fine base for walks. One spectacular day route is up to the Ushba Glacier and back.
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khinkali hut
The eating-out choices are very limited. The green khinkali hut on the road up to Gergeti provides khinkali and khachapuri in summer.
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Museum
The museum, in Kazbegi’s house, to the left of the church, contains photos, documents and some clothes and original furniture.
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Gudani
East of Biso, Gudani village, about 1km up from the road, is a striking group of tower houses on a rock outcrop.
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Diklo
Diklo, 4km northeast of Shenakho, has an old fortress perched on a spectacular rock promontory.
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