Activities in The Mountains
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Gergeti Glacier
If you're up for another 900m of ascent from Tsminda Sameba, this quite strenuous walk rewards with spectacular views. The path heads straight up the ridge behind the church; an alternative route, more protected on windy days, runs up the left flank of the ridge.
The two meet at a cairn at 2960m altitude, from where a path leads on up towards the left side of the Gergeti (Ortsveri) Glacier as it snakes its way down from Mt Kazbek. Head up here for about one hour for views of the glacier, then return. You'll need about nine hours to get up there from Kazbegi and down again the same day.
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Walk to the Cross
A moderately demanding half-day walk that many people do without a guide is up to the Cross, visible 900m above Mestia on the north side of the valley (actually just a single pole at research time). The views get better as you go, and from the Cross you can see the spectacular twin peaks of Mt Ushba (4710m), Georgia's toughest and most dangerous mountaineering challenge. From Mestia's central square walk 450m east along the main street then take the lane up to the left.
Take the uphill option at all junctions. You pass under an arch after about 350m, and after 150m more the street becomes a footpath: follow this up and after 800m it bends to the right across the hillside,…
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Walking
Walking routes are innumerable. Omalo to Shenakho and Shenakho to Diklo are two good short walks of a couple of hours each (one-way). A good route of about five days starts in Omalo or Shenakho, runs up the Pirikiti Alazani valley to Dartlo and Chesho, then crosses the 2900m Nakaicho Pass over to Verkhovani in the Gomtsari Alazani valley, and returns down the Gomtsari Alazani.
If you prefer to ride, horses are available in Omalo and Shenakho for between 35 GEL and 70 GEL per day.
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Walk to Ushguli
You can spend a lovely three days walking to Ushguli if you start by taking a jeep as far as Ipari (Nakipari on some maps), about 20km southeast of Mestia. From Ipari the first stage takes you to Adishi, where you can sleep at Zhora Kaldani's homestay. The second day is from Adishi to Iprari, where there are rooms at Ucha Margvelani's.
On the third day it's three or four hours' walk from Iprari to Ushguli.
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Trekking
The track up the Pirikiti Alazani valley beyond Chesho, through Parsma and Girevi, eventually leads to the 3431m Atsunta Pass, a very steep and demanding route over into Khevsure. It's a one-week trek all the way from Shenakho or Omalo to Shatili in Khevsureti.
If you prefer to ride, horses are available in Omalo and Shenakho for between 35 GEL and 70 GEL per day.
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Walk to Chalati Glacier
The walk to the Chalati Glacier is a lovely route, taking you out past Mestia's airstrip and up the Mestiachala valley. The last section is up through woods to the foot of the glacier. Watch out for rocks falling off the glacier in summer. This route is a nine- or 10-hour round-trip including stops. There is a border-guard checkpoint en route, so take your passport.
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Eteri Jorjoliani
Most homestays can arrange guides and jeep transport. An experienced and well-recommended English-speaking guide here, both for hikes and for visits to Svaneti's churches, is Eteri Jorjoliani.
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Walks from Mazeri
Mazeri village, 1600m high in the Dolra valley, northwest of Mestia, is another fine base for walks. One spectacular day route is up to the Ushba Glacier and back.
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