Things to do in Kakheti
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Udabno
The caves of Udabno were churches or chapels or rooms, and their inner walls still bear frescoes painted by the renowned fresco school that flourished here between the 10th and 13th centuries. The monastery's refectory, where the monks had to kneel to eat at low stone tables, is decorated with beautiful light-coloured frescoes, the principal one being an 11th-century depiction of the Last Supper.
Paintings on the north wall of what was the main church show Davit Gareja and Lukiane surrounded by deer, a reference to the story that deer gave them milk when they were wandering without sustenance in this remote wilderness. Below them are figures of Kakhetian princes.
To get t…
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Bodbe Convent
The convent, set among tall cypresses, is dedicated to St Nino, who is buried here. The little church was originally built, over her grave, by King Mirian in the 4th century. It was converted into a triple-church basilica in the 8th or 9th century and has been renovated several times since. Nino's fairly simple tomb, beneath a recently installed marble slab, is in a small chapel in its southeast corner. The murals were painted in 1823 by Bishop John Maqashvili.
A convent, founded here in the late 19th century, then turned into a hospital in Soviet times, has functioned again since 1991. Through an opening just northeast of the church, and then down a steep path of 800m, y…
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Lavra
The Lavra monastery is on three levels, with buildings dating from many different periods. The watchtower and the outer walls are from the 18th century. You enter by a gateway on the middle level which is decorated with reliefs illustrating stories of the monks' harmony with the natural world. From the gateway you go down past the 17th-century Church of St Nicholas to the lower level, where the caves of Davit and his companions are.
Davit and his Kakhetian disciples Lukiane and Dodo are buried in the 6th-century cave Peristsvaleba (Church of the Transfiguration) on this lower level. Monks are now living in the monastery again, but you can't enter their quarters (caves in …
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Alaverdi Cathedral
Alaverdi Cathedral, 20km northwest of Telavi, is the main spiritual centre in Kakheti and a source of great pride and love for the local people. The exterior is classically proportioned with majestic rounded arches but minimal decoration, typical of Kakhetian churches. Inside, one is struck by the structure’s beautiful spacious harmony and the light that streams in from the 16 windows in the cupola. The cathedral has been damaged several times by earthquakes, especially in the 15th and 18th centuries. Whitewashing in the 19th century was yet another form of damage and it was not until 1966 that this was partially rectified and some frescoes uncovered. Note the 16th-centur…
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Batonistsikhe Castle
The main architectural and historical feature of Telavi, Batonistsikhe Castle was the residence of the Kakhetian kings in the 17th and 18th centuries, built when King Archil II transferred his residence from Gremi to Telavi. Inside the castle yard is a Persian-style palace that was constructed in the 1660s, and rebuilt by Erekle II, who was born and died here. The central throne room holds many historical portraits including one of Erekle himself (above the throne).
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Pancho Villa
The only Mexican restaurant in Kakheti. Run by Shalva Mindorashvili, who took a liking to burritos and salsa while living in the USA, it serves up simple, tasty and filling versions of Mexican dishes, plus Georgian wine!
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18th-century walls
Set among wooded hills dotted with cypresses, the town has wonderful views of the Alazani valley and the Caucasus beyond. The main section of the 18th-century walls runs along the hilltop on the northeast side of town.
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Dzveli Galavani
A friendly little Georgian restaurant doing the best meals outside the hotels and homestays. It has an English-language menu, though not much of it may be available.
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Citadel
A picturesque brick citadel stands on a small hill by the Telavi–Kvareli road 19km from Telavi, just before the village of Eniseli.
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Stepan Tsminda (St Stephen's) Church
From the hilltop on the northeast side of town you can enter the tiny Stepan Tsminda (St Stephen's) Church inside one of the towers on Chavchavadze.
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Ilia Chavchavadze’s House & Museum
This museum has a lot of 19th-century photos and a few personal effects. The house is not very large, but the marani is truly impressive.
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Tsminda Giorgi (St George's) Church
Lower down, on the northeast side of town, is the handsome 19th-century Tsminda Giorgi (St George's) Church.
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Café Lucky Strike
This unexciting café next to the tourist office does average Turkish-style kebabs and pizzas.
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