Sights in Gabon
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Mayumba
If you mention Mayumba to someone who has been there, you're likely to be met with a dreamy, faraway look. It's no wonder - with endless and uninhabited beaches, whales spouting in the distance, trees full of magical spirits, and nesting sea turtles on the beach, it's not too far from eco-traveller heaven.
Mayumba would be Gabon's premier beach resort if it weren't so hard to get to. Anyone who gets this far, though, will discover deserted beaches, fishing villages and friendly locals who will offer to take you on fishing trips or boat tours for a small price. It's a great place to spend a few lazy days enjoying the sun, the waves, fresh seafood, and peace and quiet.
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Cirque de Léconi
East of Franceville the savanna rises up into the Bateke Plateau, a dry, cool, flat stretch of land that extends south and east into the Congo. Léconi is a small, quiet place with a couple of bars, a hotel and a cheap case de passage. The spectacular Cirque de Léconi, a deep, circular red-rock canyon of loose sands, is only a few kilometres from town.
Infrequent bush taxis go to Léconi from Franceville, but a 4WD that's capable of handling the deep-sand road is necessary to get to the cirque. It is possible to camp overnight (if you can find equipment). Once there, you can enjoy the views right across the canyon.
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Réserve de la Lopé
The Réserve de la Lopé is Gabon's most accessible and most popular wildlife reserve, where you're likely to see forest elephants, buffalo and a variety of primates. Recently the reserve initiated gorilla walks in an attempt to habituate the gorilla population to the presence of small groups of humans. Tours by pirogue, jeep and foot are available.
The reserve is a patchwork of rolling hills, savannah and dense rainforest, and if you're lucky you'll see some of the largest mandrill troupes in the world.
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Ebando Association
Ebando Association is headed up by the wacky, wonderful shaman Tatayo, a Frenchman who has lived in Gabon forever. On site is a Bwiti temple and many young Gabonese learning and practicing the traditional arts. Costs are variable (if you want to do an initiation, for example), but if you want to go and hang out with Tatayo and chat about Bwiti culture it's free. It's located north of Libreville in the neighbourhood of La Sabliere.
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Musée des Arts et Traditions
The Musée des Arts et Traditions has exhibitions on tribal crafts and culture, and a great collection of masks. Just as interesting are the folk-art sculptures on the waterfront across from the Intercontinental and, a nice walk south along the water, across from the casino.
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