Château de Chambord

Introducing Château de Chambord

Chateaux don’t get any grander than Chambord (02 54 50 50 20; www.chambord.org; adult/under 18yr/18-25yr €8.50/free/6; 9am-6.30pm May-Sep, 9am-5.30pm Oct-Apr, to 8.30pm 14 Jul–15 Aug, ticket sales end 45 min before closing), built starting in 1519 by François I so he could hunt in the Sologne forests. You’ll see his emblems – the royal monogram (a letter ‘F’) and salamanders of a particularly fierce disposition – adorning many parts of the complex, which has a feudal ground plan. Though forced by liquidity problems to leave his two sons unransomed in Spain and to help himself to both the wealth of his churches and his subjects’ silver, François I kept 1800 workers and artisans busy here for 15 years. In the end, though, he stayed at Chambord for a total of only 42 days during his long reign (1515–47).

The chateau’s most famous feature is the double-helix staircase, attributed by some to Leonardo da Vinci, which consists of two spiral staircases that wind around a central axis but never meet. It’s easy to imagine dukes in tights chasing (Loire) Valley Girls in long skirts up one spiral while countesses in crinolines pursued ruddy gardeners down the other... In the nearby donjon (castle keep) you can see a visually engaging 15-minute film (subtitled in English) on the chateau’s history and architecture.

This giant strand of DNA leads up to the Italianate rooftop terrace, where you’re surrounded by so many towers, cupolas, domes, chimneys, mosaic slate roofs and lightning rods that it’s like standing on a gargantuan chessboard. It was here that the royal court assembled to watch military exercises, tournaments and the hounds and hunters returning from a day of stalking deer.

Chambord’s 1½-hour audioguide (€4) is available in two versions, one for adults, the other for children aged seven to 12. From about June to August, 1½-hour guided tours (€4) in English are held once or twice a day. Free son et lumière shows, known as Les Clairs de Lune, are projected onto the chateau’s façade nightly from July to mid-September.

From May to September, a 45-minute Spectacle Équestre (dressage show; 02 54 20 31 01; www.chambord-horse-show.fr; adult/child €7.50/5) with costumed riders and some very regal horses begins daily at 11.45am. On weekends and in July and August there’s a second show at 4.30pm.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009