Things to do in Sarlat La Canéda
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Le Présidial
Housed in one of Sarlat's most historic buildings (originally a 17th-century courthouse), Le Présidial's stout gates swing back to reveal the city's most romantic terrace, filled with summer flowers and climbing ivy – the perfect place to sit back and enjoy authentic saveurs de terroir (country flavours). Goose, duck and foie gras dominate the changing menu, and the wine list is super, especially for Sarlat and Cahors vintages.
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Bistro de l'Octroi
This locals' tip is a little way out of town, but don't let that dissuade you. Sarladais pack into this cosy town house for the artistically presented, accomplished cooking that doesn't sacrifice substance for style. Top choices are the generous slabs of Limousin beef and sublime seafood; if you can't decide on dessert, go for the symphonée with small portions of several.
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Cathédrale St-Sacerdos
Whichever street you take, sooner or later you'll end up at the cathedral on place du Peyrou, once part of Sarlat's Cluniac abbey. The original abbey church was built in the 1100s, redeveloped in the early 1500s and remodelled again in the 1700s, so it's a real mix of styles. The belfry and western facade are the oldest parts of the building, while the nave, organ and interior chapels are later additions.
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Restaurant Rossignol
At first sight this small restaurant looks a little starchy, with its crisp white tablecloths and plain wooden chairs, but in fact the atmosphere is closer to a homely ferme auberge (farm stay) than a gourmet restaurant. Local fish, meat and foie gras dominate the menu, and you'll be in for a treat if you're here during truffle season.
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Saturday Market
For the full-blown French market experience, you absolutely mustn't miss Sarlat's chaotic Saturday market, which takes over the streets around the cathedral. Depending on the season, delicacies on offer include local mushrooms, duck- and goose-based products such as foie gras, and even the holy truffe noir (black truffle).
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Le Grand Bleu
Near the train station, every menu at this Michelin-starred temple to fine dining includes a choice of meat (like veal sweetbreads with truffles) or seafood (such as lobster risotto with roast eggplant and truffle mousse), with a 'petit gourmet' menu for little gourmands, and an upcoming program of cooking courses.
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Le Bistrot
This diminutive bistro is the best of the bunch on café-clad place du Peyrou. Red-check tablecloths and twinkling fairy lights create an intimate atmosphere, and the menu's heavy on Sarlat classics – especially walnuts, magret de canard (duck breast) and pommes sarlardaises (potatoes cooked in duck fat).
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Maison de la Boétie
This 16th-century timber-framed house opposite the cathedral is the birthplace of the writer Étienne de la Boétie (1530–63).
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Puymartin
Heading 8km northwest from town brings you to this turreted château with an elegant partly furnished interior that's best known for the mysterious Dame Blanche, whose restless spirit is said to haunt its corridors.
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Criquettamu's
Searching out this chic little spot – hidden away in the Cité Médiévale – rewards with 'world platters' including Japanese, island (with banana curry) and Western (gourmet hamburgers), as well as local flavours.
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Chez Le Gaulois
Stonking plates of smoked sausage, cold meats and cheese are served up on wooden platters at this Alpine-style auberge as well as authentic tartiflettes (cheese, potato and meat gratin).
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Lanterne des Morts
The rocket-shaped Lanterne des Morts was built to honour a visit by St Bernard, one of the founders of the Cistercian order, in 1147.
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Marché Couvert
Inside the converted Église Ste-Marie, this is the best place for supplies from local producers.
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Jardin des Enfeus
Jardin des Enfeus, situated behind Cathédrale St-Sacerdos, is Sarlat's first cemetery.
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Le Pub
The enclosed courtyard springs to life with alfresco drinkers in summer.
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Le Quatre Saisons
Tucked off a steep street in the Cité Médiévale. The father-and-son team behind this intimate restaurant use whatever's freshest at the markets to inspire inventive dishes accompanied by a surprisingly international wine list.
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Historic Quarter
Two medieval courtyards, the Cour des Fontaines and the Cour des Chanoines, can be reached via an alleyway off rue Tourny. Duck down the passage from Cour des Chanoines to the Chapelle des Pénitents Bleus, a Romanesque chapel that provided the architectural inspiration for the cathedral.
Nearby is the Jardin des Enfeus, Sarlat's first cemetery, and the rocket-shaped Lanterne des Morts (Lantern of the Dead), built to honour a visit by St Bernard, one of the founders of the Cistercian order, in 1147.
reviewed
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