Things to do in Bayonne
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Chiloa Gurmenta Restaurant
As Basque as a game of pelota, this simple and rustic little restaurant, located inside a former brothel, serves one thing and one thing only: axoa. A Basque farmers' dish, axoa originates from the nearby village of Espelette and consists of minced veal with Espelette peppers, rice, potato and whatever else is lying around. Anne, your host for the evening, could work in show business.
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Musée Basque et de l'Histoire de Bayonne
The seafaring history, traditions and cultural identity of the Basque people are all explored at this superb museum through exhibits including a reconstructed farm and the interior of a typical etxe (home). Labelling is in French, Spanish and Basque only but English information sheets are available. In July and August free 'nocturnal' visits are possible on Wednesday evenings from 6.30pm to 9.30pm.
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Cathédrale Ste-Marie Cathedral
The twin towers of Bayonne's Gothic cathedral soar above the city. Construction began in the 13th century, and was completed in 1451; the mismatched materials in some ways resemble Lego blocks. Above the north aisle are three lovely stained-glass windows; the oldest, in the Chapelle Saint Jérôme, dates from 1531. The entrance to the stately 13th-century cloister is on place Louis Pasteur.
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Bar-Restaurant du Marché
Run by a welcoming Basque-speaking family, this unpretentious place is an absolute institution where everyone knows everyone (and therefore some people may find it slightly intimidating, but don't worry; just dive right in – nobody cares!) and simple but ample home-cooked dishes full of the flavours of the neighbouring market are dished up to all comers.
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La Criée Bayonnaise
Decked out in marine colours, this unassuming little find does delicious Basque seafood specialities (such as les chipirons à l'espagnole – squid with sweet peppers served with finely ground rice), but you can also get fresh mussels and even fish and chips. For dessert, don't miss the ardi gasna (local cheese with cherry jam).
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Al Piccola Ristorante
Every lunchtime a queue of hopefuls forms at the door of this minute restaurant that's essentially just someone's front room. The reward for all that waiting are the beautifully crafted, homemade Italian dishes that'll leave you feeling like you're living la dolce vita. If you don't want to join the hopefuls at the door, book ahead.
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Daranatz
Bayonne’s long association with chocolate stems from the Spanish Inquisition, when Jews who fled Spain set up their trade in the St-Esprit neighbourhood. By 1870 Bayonne boasted 130 chocolatiers (specialist makers of chocolate), more than in all of Switzerland. Daranatz is one of them.
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Le Chistera
A local gathering spot, this aromatic, traditional Basque place is named for the chistera (basket) that pelota players strap to their wrists. It's decorated with motifs from the sport, thanks to two generations of owners who are former professional players.
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La Grange
With a shady outside terrace, this popular place overlooks the River Nive. Basque music plays sotto voce in the cosy interior, hung with hanks of dried peppers and garlic. Traditional French flavours include plenty of seafood options and the desserts are to die for.
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La Chayote Restaurant Bio
A relaxed child-friendly bio (organic) café that serves primarily homemade vegetarian fare, although one or two chicken dishes slip in to keep the carnivores happy. After eating, slide through the side door to the neighbouring bio supermarket.
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Auberge du Cheval Blanc
Renowned as one of the town's most exclusive restaurants, this refined eatery with its pastel tones and original art work fully deserves its Michelin star for its mouth-watering creative French cuisine. A must with the business set at lunchtime.
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Ramparts
Bayonne's 17th-century fortifications are now covered with grass, dotted with trees and enveloped in pretty parks. You can walk the stretches of the old ramparts that rise above bd Rempart Lachepaillet and rue Tour de Sault.
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Restaurant François Miura
This ultrastylish place has a strictly postmodern décor. It's one of the places to be seen in Petit Bayonne, where the food, such as tender pigeon stuffed with foie gras, is just as fashionable as the clientele.
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Bistrot Ste-Cluque
There's only one menu here - a large blackboard that's propped up before you. Noisy (the music's a decibel or two too loud), smoky and with waiters bustling about everywhere, it's a wonderful, no-pretensions place.
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Bodega Ibaia
This atmospheric Basque restaurant/tapas bar with wooden benches, sawdust on the floor and traditional Spanish tiling is more informal than most of the terrace restaurants on this popular stretch.
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Cafés Ramuntcho
To sip (or buy to take home) no fewer than 380 different teas (reputedly the most in France), take a seat amid the metal canisters of this café, established in 1920.
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Covered Market
The covered market sits on the riverfront. There are a number of tempting food shops and delicatessens along rue Port Neuf and rue d’Espagne.
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Musée Bonnat
Unexpected treasures are crammed into the Musée Bonnat, including canvases by El Greco, Goya, Ingres and Degas, and a roomful of works by Rubens. Nearby is the Le Carré Musée Bonnat, which houses the Bonnat museum's ever-changing collection of works by the Basque artists of today.
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Les Arènes
In summer, bullfights are held from time to time at Les Arènes. The tourist office has details of upcoming corridas and also sells tickets.
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Pierre Ibaïalde
To buy Bayonne's famous ham at the lowest prices, visit the covered market or, for the best quality, visit a specialist shop such as Pierre Ibaïalde, where you can taste before you buy.
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Elkar
Elkar has a wealth of books and films on Basque history and culture, walking in the Basque Country, maps and CDs of Basque music.
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Restaurant Agadir
Shimmering with red and gold, this St-Esprit restaurant serves up mountains of Moroccan-style couscous and steaming tagines.
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La Pompe
La Pompe, a tiny sweatbox of a place where the music comes in all styles, is the only discothèque in central Bayonne.
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La Luna Negra Music
Catch live jazz, salsa and tango evenings and concerts of world music at this alternative cabaret/theatre venue.
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Cinéma l'Atalante
Cinéma l'Atalante screens art-house nondubbed films. It is in the St-Esprit neighbourhood.
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