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  1. Chef Michelangelo

    Chef Michelangelo takes the meaning of one-man show to new extremes. The shopping, the chopping, the table-waiting, the cooking, the sitting down with guests for a glass of wine while the pasta is boiling… Michelangelo does it all. Dining here in fact is tantamount to being invited to a Sicilian chef’s house for dinner. There are things to know, of course: 1) there are only 14 chairs (everyone eats at a long table in front of the open kitchen) so reservations are mandatory; 2) Michelangelo chooses the menu (three courses, about €25, cash only), so be prepared to eat anything; and 3) all the products – the olive oil, the wine (from €28 per bottle), the cheese – come from S…

    reviewed

  2. A

    Palais Des Rajpout

    Joining rue du Faubourg St-Denis and blvd de Strasbourg in the 10e, this old-style covered arcade could easily be in Calcutta. Its incredibly cheap Indian, Pakistani and Bangladeshi cafés offer among the best-value lunches in Paris (meat curry, rice and a tiny salad €5 to €9.50, chicken or lamb biryani €10.50 to €14.50, thalis €7 to €9.50). Dinner menus are from €12.50 to €24 but it must be said that most of the eateries here offer subcontinental food à la française, There are lots of places to choose from, but the pick of the crop are Palais des Rajpout, Passage de Pondicherry and Pooja.

    reviewed

  3. B

    Pooja

    Joining rue du Faubourg St-Denis and blvd de Strasbourg in the 10e, this old-style covered arcade could easily be in Calcutta. Its incredibly cheap Indian, Pakistani and Bangladeshi cafés offer among the best-value lunches in Paris (meat curry, rice and a tiny salad €5 to €9.50, chicken or lamb biryani €10.50 to €14.50, thalis €7 to €9.50). Dinner menus are from €12.50 to €24 but it must be said that most of the eateries here offer subcontinental food à la française, There are lots of places to choose from, but the pick of the crop are Palais des Rajpout, Passage de Pondicherry and Pooja.

    reviewed

  4. C

    Passage De Pondicherry

    Joining rue du Faubourg St-Denis and blvd de Strasbourg in the 10e, this old-style covered arcade could easily be in Calcutta. Its incredibly cheap Indian, Pakistani and Bangladeshi cafés offer among the best-value lunches in Paris (meat curry, rice and a tiny salad €5 to €9.50, chicken or lamb biryani €10.50 to €14.50, thalis €7 to €9.50). Dinner menus are from €12.50 to €24 but it must be said that most of the eateries here offer subcontinental food à la française, There are lots of places to choose from, but the pick of the crop are Palais des Rajpout, Passage de Pondicherry and Pooja.

    reviewed

  5. Le Coquillage

    Super chef Olivier Roellinger’s latest project is his sumptuous restaurant Le Coquillage and hotel housed in the extremely impressive Château Richeux, 4km to the south of Cancale. Roellinger’s creations have earned him three Michelin stars and you won’t have trouble seeing why if you’re lucky enough to get a table here. The Maritime Adventure menu (€90) takes in many culinary highlights of both Brittany and Normandy, from fresh scallops to the region’s dishes, all beautifully cooked and imaginatively served. Booking well ahead is essential. As well as offering rooms at Château Richeux, Roellinger offers a range of cottages and other deluxe accommodation around Ca…

    reviewed

  6. La Gratta

    The best pan bagnat – loosely translated as sopped bread – the local version of a tuna sandwich, made with crusty bread, chunks of cold tuna, lettuce, tomatoes, onions, radish and egg, all drizzled with local olive oil comes from the port-side snack-bar La Gratta, which uses excellent ingredients including tender-crusted fresh bread and fruity green olive oil. Find a spot along the port where you can dangle your feet over the quai, and watch masts bob in the harbour while you drip olive oil down your chin.

    reviewed

  7. Relais du Vieux Sauvaire

    Relais du Vieux Sauvaire is the hidden gem of these hills. With 180-degree views you could only dream of, this restaurant and pool (most people come here for lunch and then stay all afternoon) is one of a kind. Owner Roland Gallo has been here since 1960 and clearly has no intention of ever going anywhere else (you’ll understand why when you get there). The food is as sunny as the views: pizzas, melon and Parma ham, or whole sea bass in salt crust.

    reviewed

  8. Le Palais Bleu

    It’s not cheap but this stylish eatery just opposite Cathédrale St-Pierre, that looks more like a stylish farmhouse than the ‘Blue Palace’ that its name describes, is the place in Beauvais to sample la cuisine picarde (Picardy cuisine). Go for flamiche (leek and egg savoury tart), ficelle picarde (ham and mushroom crêpe) or the inventive tiramisu with bacon and crème de chorizo (cream of chorizo sausage).

    reviewed

  9. Les Deux Frères

    Les Deux Frères is the choice restaurant in the village. Dramatically perched on a panoramic terrace, it has jaw-dropping views of the Med. Waiters wear formal black, and mains (traditional French cuisine) come hidden beneath silver domed platters. In winter, guests lunch or dine in the minimalist dining room with its contemporary fireplace. The lunch menu, including a half-bottle of wine, is good value.

    reviewed

  10. La Ville d’Ys

    La Ville d’Ys is probably the town’s most famous crêperie, named for the fabled Atlantis-style submerged city of Breton legend. Tucked inside a two-storey 15th-century house with a slanted wooden staircase and colourful crockery displayed on the walls, La Ville d’Ys serves up mouth-watering black wheat pancakes with sublime taste combinations.

    reviewed

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  12. Centre Régional des Œuvres Universitaires et Scolaires

    Centre Régional des Œuvres Universitaires et Scolaires restaurants (usually called restos U) have variable hours that change according to university holiday schedules and weekend rotational agreements; check the CROUS website for current times. The only one open all year and on Sunday (for brunch) is Bullier, one of CROUS' branches.

    reviewed

  13. Centre Régional des Œuvres Universitaires et Scolaires Bullier

    Branch of the Centre Régional des Œuvres Universitaires et Scolaires. It has variable hours that change according to university holiday schedules and weekend rotational agreements; check the schedule posted outside the branch or the CROUS website for current times. The only one open all year and on Sunday (for brunch) is Bullier.

    reviewed

  14. Restaurant La Terrasse

    On a breezy spot in the village, Restaurant La Terrasse serves a great-value three-course menu. Monégaques often come here for dinner when it gets too hot on the coast. The restaurant owners used to live in the US and will let American visitors ring their mother back in the US for nostalgia’s sake!

    reviewed

  15. D

    Maison du Saumon et de la Truie Qui File

    Inhabiting Chartres’ most photographed half-timbered building, this medieval landmark cooks up a bit of everything, ranging from Polish stuffed cabbage rolls and Hungarian ghoulash to Alsatian sauerkraut and Moroccan tajines (€18.50). Kids get roast chicken and veg in their menu (€9).

    reviewed

  16. E

    Les Domaines qui Montent Montmartre

    What better way to enjoy wine with a meal than at a wine merchant’s establishment? The optimistically named ‘Estates on the Rise’ serves a table d’hôtes – a set meal with little or no choice – at lunchtime of a cheese and charcuterie or a plat du jour.

    reviewed

  17. L’Aiglon

    Zonza is a quintessential village mountain with the soaring Aiguilles de Bavella as a backdrop. Zonza is a perfect base for exploring the Alta Rocca, with a good range of restaurants and accommodation options. L’Aiglon is the best place around to sample a refined Corsican meal.

    reviewed

  18. Centre Régional des Œuvres Universitaires et Scolaires Censier

    Branch of the Centre Régional des Œuvres Universitaires et Scolaires. It has variable hours that change according to university holiday schedules and weekend rotational agreements; check the schedule posted outside the branch or the CROUS website (www.crous-paris.fr) for current times.

    reviewed

  19. Centre Régional des Œuvres Universitaires et Scolaires Châtelet

    Branch of the Centre Régional des Œuvres Universitaires et Scolaires. It has variable hours that change according to university holiday schedules and weekend rotational agreements; check the schedule posted outside the branch or the CROUS website (www.crous-paris.fr) for current times.

    reviewed

  20. Les Vents d’Anges

    A straw poll among local people suggests that this restaurant in the shadow of the Église de St-Étienne (Church of St Stephen) about 150m south of the tourist office is the best in town. It serves traditional but inventive French cuisine and its own wines in bright, upbeat surroundings.

    reviewed

  21. Taverne Karlbrau

    Choucroute garnie (sauerkraut with assorted meats), oysters on the half-shell and a skylit dome in the centre – it’s Central Casting Alsatian-style in Picardy. But the welcome is warm, the location central and the menus more than affordable.

    reviewed

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  23. F

    Maison Kayser

    If all you seek for lunch is a well-filled bread roll (from €3.60 to €4.70) or salad and a fruit tart (from €5 to €8.50) to take away or eaten at bar-stool seating, bakeryMaison Kayser is the best deal around.

    reviewed

  24. Le Marmiton

    Le Marmiton, the onsite formal restaurant of Hôtel La Mirande, offers cooking classes (from €80) and a twice-weekly chef’s table (€92, reservations essential); afternoon tea is served (albeit slowly) in the glittering lobby.

    reviewed

  25. Club 55

    The oldest-running club dates to the 1950s, and was originally the crew canteen during the filming of And God Created Woman. Now it caters to celebs who do not want to be seen. The food is – remarkably – nothing special.

    reviewed

  26. Restaurant Joël Boilleaut

    Attached to the Hostellerie du Nord, the racing-green canopied entrance sets the tone for Auvers’ fine-dining restaurant, presided over by the eponymous master chef Boilleaut. It is best in summer when tables spill into the walled garden.

    reviewed

  27. La Tonnelle

    The monks run a restaurant, La Tonnelle, which has lovely views of the sea and serves wine from the abbey’s own vineyards (bottles are expensive but glasses are available). It’s also a stellar spot for afternoon tea.

    reviewed