Gastronomic restaurants in France
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La Tupina
Filled with the aroma of soup simmering inside an old tupina ('kettle' in Basque) over an open fire, this white-tableclothed place is feted far and wide for its seasonal southwestern French specialities such as a minicasserole of foie gras and eggs, milk-fed lamb or goose wings with potatoes and parsley. A €16 lunch menu is available on weekdays. La Tupina is a 10-minute walk upriver from the city centre and on a small side street. Any local can point you in the right direction.
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Le Balandre
With chandeliers, sparkling glasses and napkins you could cut your finger on, the Grand Hotel Terminus' gourmet restaurant continues to command a devoted following, especially for its foie gras and confit de canard. Ask about its program of cooking courses.
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L'Esprit du Vin
David Enjalran's gastronomic restaurant is a gutbuster, renowned for lavish spreads of fine French food with a sky-high price tag to match. Menus are divided into five 'ateliers' (levels), and take their culinary cue from the changing seasons: the approach is very much Michelin-style, so it might be a bit stuffy for some. The lunchtime 'Pause Gourmande' is marginally more affordable at €23/27 for one/two courses. Reservations recommended.
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L’Astrance
It’s been over a decade now since Pascal Barbot’s dazzling cuisine at the three-star L’Astrance made its debut, but it has shown no signs of losing its cutting edge. Look beyond the complicated descriptions on the menu – what you should expect are teasers of taste that you never even knew existed, and a presentation that is an art unto itself. A culinary experience unique to Paris, reserve one/two months ahead for lunch/dinner.
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Les Quatre Sergents
Set inside a beautifully tiled, historic former greenhouse, it's still a jungle in here today with plants scrambling upward to the height of trees. Don't worry though, nothing else about this place is as untamed as the Congo; this is the city's premier address for white-tableclothed elegance and gastronomic French fare such as frogs' legs in a creamy pineau (sweet white wine with a Cognac base) sauce.
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Emile's
Yes, the set menu has the potential to flag a red alert to Amex, but it's the top-end darling of central Calvi. From the scenic 1st-floor terrace overlooking the quayside, it provides a memorable dining experience with unobtrusive service and fabulous food. If you've never had the chance to try grilled lobster, this is the place to do it, washed down with an ice-cold bottle of white.
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Les 5 Sens
Chef Thierry Baucher, one of France’s meilleurs ouvriers (top chefs), reveals his southwestern origins in specialities including cassoulet and foie gras, but goes contemporary-Mediterranean in his gastronomic dishes, such as butternut-squash ravioli with escargots. The dining room is refreshingly unfussy, vaguely French Colonial with rattan and carved wood, and service impeccable.
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Loiseau des Vignes
Give yourself up to the splendour of delicate concoctions like an egg poached in white wine with shallots...light as a dream. Could be the best egg you ever eat in your life. Wines are served only by the glass (€3 to €80) from snazzy sleek red degustation contraptions ringing the hushed but relaxed dining room. Service is knowledgeable and attentive, making a meal here a true pleasure.
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Au Crocodile
This hushed temple of French gastronomy is named after a stuffed toothy critter (now suspended over the foyer) brought back from Egypt by one of Napoléon's generals. Artistically presented specialities such as smooth foie gras with rhubarb chutney and filet mignon in a mountain-cheese crust have won Au Crocodile a Michelin star. Advance reservations recommended.
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L'Altru Versu
Ajaccio's top-notch restaurant belongs to the Mezzacqui brothers (Jean-Pierre front of house, Pierre powering the kitchen), who are passionate gastronomes and excellent singers – they hitch on their guitars and serenade guests each Friday and Saturday night. Their creative cuisine sings in the mouth – what about pork with honey and clementine zests?
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L'Estaquade
Set on stilts, this place juts out off the river's eastern bank. The seafood (bass, cod, scampi, scallops etc) and meat dishes (like pigeon with port and blackcurrant sauce) served here even manage to eclipse the magical views of Bordeaux' neoclassical architecture. From place de la Bourse, you'll see the restaurant on the other side of the river.
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L'Ambroisie
Quimper's most celebrated gastronomic restaurant is sumptuously decorated with contemporary art and elegant china on snow-white tablecloths. Regional produce provided by chef Gilbert Guyon's friends is used in the creation of house specials like sole with new potatoes and caramelised onions. Cooking classes are available by request.
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Le Grand Bleu
Near the train station, every menu at this Michelin-starred temple to fine dining includes a choice of meat (like veal sweetbreads with truffles) or seafood (such as lobster risotto with roast eggplant and truffle mousse), with a 'petit gourmet' menu for little gourmands, and an upcoming program of cooking courses.
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Restaurant Delaunay
This superb yet unassuming-looking restaurant is where Chef Didier Delaunay creates standout gastronomic cuisine within aubergine-painted walls. The menu features succulent dishes both from the surf (Breton lobster is a speciality) and turf (tender lamb). The restaurant is fully wheelchair accessible.
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Gill
The place to go in Rouen for gastronomique French cuisine of the highest order, served in an ultrachic, ultramodern dining room. Specialities including fresh Breton lobster, scallops with truffles, Rouen-style pigeon and, for dessert, millefeuille à la vanille.
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L'Atelier
A beautiful and modern gastronomic experience. Opt for a series of seven or 13 edible works of art, then sit back and revel in Jean-Luc Rabanel’s superbly crafted symphony of fresh organic tastes. No wonder this green-fingered urban chef with his own veggie patch has two Michelin stars.
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Le 1
Legal eagles from Nantes' gleaming 21st-century law court next door lounge in the ultracontemporary bar and dine on fabulous fusion dishes at this spot overlooking the Loire. The wine cellar is a see-through affair, with over 2000 bottles on stainless-steel racks in a glass cool room.
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Le Bistrot
Sleek and monochromatic, this is a real foodie's place. Michelin-starred chef Mickey experiments with textures and seasonal flavours to create taste sensations like pan-seared Arctic char with chestnuts, and divine warm chocolate macaroon with raspberry and red pepper coulis.
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Christian Etienne
Avignon’s top table rests on its laurels and could stand some redecorating, but the refined Provençal cuisine remains exceptional, most notably the summertime-only starter-to-dessert tomato menu. Reservations essential.
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Le Jardin des Remparts
On the cool terrace under umbrellas or in the refined dining room, dine on treats like foie gras poached with tarragon.
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Park 45
Perfect for a lingering lunch or swank romantic dinner, Park 45 holds one Michelin star for its imaginative cooking.
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Mandarine
The casually sophisticated, glass-walled dining room at the Port Palace hotel has mesmerising views over the yacht harbour, and gained a Michelin star in 2010 for its seamless marriage of earthy cooking, artistic presentations and thoughtful service. Monday to Friday there's a €36 lunch menu.
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Le Favre d'Anne
Muted tones, crystal, linen and river views call for a romantic night out or a swanky lunch. Ingredients are always fresh (artichokes, asparagus, goat cheese, local fish) and the concoctions creative: a dash of cacao here and a splash of prune coulis there. No wonder it has a Michelin star.
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L'Orangerie
Polish up those heels and dust off that suit! Tucked behind wrought-iron gates opposite the château, the Orangery is cloud nine for connoisseurs of haute cuisine. Plates are artfully stacked (duck liver, langoustine, foie gras) and the sparkling salon would make Louis XIV green with envy. On summer nights, opt for a courtyard table. The only warning: desserts sometimes have jarring flavour combinations.
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Le Magasin aux Vivres
Conjurer of textures and seasonal flavours, Michelin-starred chef Christophe Dufossé makes creative use of local produce. Moselle wines work well with specialities like plump scallops sliding into a Lorraine beer emulsion and rack of Limousin lamb in spicy jus. Reservations are recommended.
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