Basque restaurants in France
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A
Au Dauphin
The force behind this unassuming bistro facing place André Malraux and Palais Royal is two pedigreed chefs from Biarritz (on the southwest coast) who have brought the flavours of the Basque country and the coastal Landes region to Paris. There are two hard-to-choose routes through the menu – the first being jars of wonderful rustic starters such as lapereau à la grand-mère (young rabbit in mushroom cream sauce), rillettes (shredded potted meat) and foie gras, to be shared with excellent bread, while the other offers combinations of classic Spanish parrillada (mixed grill).
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B
Au Bascou
This is a popular eatery serving such classic Basque dishes as pipérade (peppers, onions, tomatoes and ham cooked with scrambled eggs), axoa (ragout of ground veal with a sauce of pimento and peppers) and Bayonne ham in all its guises. Round off the meal with a piece of Ardi Gasna brebis (a Basque ewe’s milk cheese) or a slice of gâteau basque, a layer cake filled with cream and cherry jam.
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C
Chiloa Gurmenta Restaurant
As Basque as a game of pelota, this simple and rustic little restaurant, located inside a former brothel, serves one thing and one thing only: axoa. A Basque farmers' dish, axoa originates from the nearby village of Espelette and consists of minced veal with Espelette peppers, rice, potato and whatever else is lying around. Anne, your host for the evening, could work in show business.
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D
Bar-Restaurant du Marché
Run by a welcoming Basque-speaking family, this unpretentious place is an absolute institution where everyone knows everyone (and therefore some people may find it slightly intimidating, but don't worry; just dive right in – nobody cares!) and simple but ample home-cooked dishes full of the flavours of the neighbouring market are dished up to all comers.
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E
Le Clos Basque
With its tiles and exposed stonework hung with abstract art, this tiny place could have strayed in from Spain. The cuisine, however, is emphatically Basque, traditional with a contemporary twist or two, such as sirloin with green mustard, or stuffed eggplant with saffron. Reserve ahead to secure a terrace table.
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F
Tikia
'Tikia' is the Basque word for small. The restaurant's indeed modestly sized, though the same can't be said of the brochettes, giant skewers of duck, steak or seafood. For lighter appetites, there's a good selection of salads and local wines, all topped off with friendly service.
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G
Le Chistera
A local gathering spot, this aromatic, traditional Basque place is named for the chistera (basket) that pelota players strap to their wrists. It's decorated with motifs from the sport, thanks to two generations of owners who are former professional players.
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H
Bistrot des Halles
One of a cluster of decent restaurants along rue du Centre that get their produce directly from the nearby covered market, this bustling place serves excellent fish and other fresh fare from the blackboard menu in an interior adorned with old metallic advertising posters.
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I
La Goulue
This brasserie with its reproduction belle époque décor, mirrors and ancient gramophones offers traditional French cooking with a nod or two towards the Basque country and Les Landes, to the north.
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