Var
Tradition rules fierce and strong at this no-frills village inn, which doubles as the local bar-tabac (cafe-tobacconist). For locals, this is the place to…
Must-see restaurants in Provence & the Côte d'Azur
Nice
Run by health-food aficionados Willy and Camille, Nice's pioneering vegan and gluten-free restaurant greets guests with a giant gorilla statue and a…
Aix-en-Provence
The peasant flavours of Corsica are given free rein at this backstreet bistro – from big platters of Corsican charcuterie to a wine list with some of the…
Marseille
The food is decent all-purpose French (entrecôte, foie gras, boeuf tartare, crème brulée, burgers etc) but what really appeals about this club-like…
Bouches-du-Rhône
Inside an old fisherman’s house with pale-grey shutters and a leafy veranda, Le Miroir cooks up a bounty of seafood: poutargue (pressed grey mullet roe),…
Var
This friendly, busy spot on Hyères' pleasure port provides a wonderful backdrop of gleaming waves and gently rocking yachts for a relaxed meal on the…
Nice
The lone eatery near the Musée Matisse is this humble parkside kiosk, serving panini, salads and Niçois specialities such as pan bagnat (Provençal tuna…
Nice
Of the many brasseries adjoining the cours Saleya market, Le Safari is among the few that native Niçois' regularly recommend. Pluses: food is served…
Pays d’Aix
The true attraction of this wayfarers' inn, which is a little close to the D65 to be truly restful, is the stunning, triple-tiered Aqueduc de Roquefavour,…
Var
Local produce – especially chestnuts, which appear in soups, crème brûlée, and many other dishes when they're in season – is a feature of the excellent…
Îles de Lérins
Watch the ferries come and go and gaze across the Med at the distant Alps from this terrace restaurant between the fort and the boat docks. Prices are…
Arles
A great lunch option, with a counter brimming with picnicky treats – sandwiches filled with inventive ingredients such as Roquefort and cèpe crème …
Nice
Cookies, coffee and cakes are the raison d’être at this calculatedly cute cafe (part of a larger franchise) on the edge of the old town. It’s got the feel…
Nice
The menu at this contemporary urban bistro is signed off by Michelin-starred chef Jean-Michel Llorca. Neutral hues add an understated elegance to the…
Arles
Based on the ground floor of Le Calendal, this bright and breezy cafe does a nice line in lunchtime sandwiches and salads, plus offers a tempting choice…
Var
Choose between the elegant, muted dining room or the people-watching terrace under the plane trees. Open year-round, 'The Poppy Table' offers classic…
Marseille
Part bookshop, part restaurant, this opulent former arms warehouse overlooks a vast public square and makes a sophisticated setting for a meal, or just…
Var
Lunch well, and predominantly organically, at Auberge de Correns, where the cuisine is innovative and market driven, the wine list features local…
Îles de Lérins
The island's only restaurant, La Tonnelle makes a pleasant midday break, with set-price lunch menus and an à la carte lineup of pasta, meat and fish…
Var
Just west of Sanary, on Portissol beach, this seafront restaurant/club is perfect for everything from leisurely coffees and delicious meals to late-night…
Camargue
Built by a bullfighter in 1907, and assuming its present form after the current owners took over in 1977, this friendly place is basically a roadside…
Villefranche-sur-Mer
Among the generous line-up of restaurant terraces along the seafront, the 'Sweet Life' is a favourite for its hip, shabby-chic lounge-bar vibe and…
Vaucluse
Fontaine-de-Vaucluse’s restaurants tend towards the touristique; this one is no exception, but it manages to serve reasonably priced, good-quality food …
Var
The petite, stone-clad dimensions and flower-baskets of this attractive little place on the main street probably draw more custom than the crêpes and…
Alpes-de-Haute-Provence
Downhill from the market square, this small cafe is a popular lunch spot, good for speedy classics like salade de chèvre chaud (melted goat’s cheese salad…
The Luberon
Tiny and friendly, this village restaurant is a popular local’s tip for solid, fuss-free Provençal cooking. Everything’s cooked fresh on the day, so it’s…
Toulon
A proper brasserie through and through: beers on tap, tables on the street and a menu of filling French standards like duck breast and grilled steak. It’s…
Aix-en-Provence
A handy refuelling station when exploring Vieil Aix, this outlet of St-Tropez’s swish baker sells sugar-encrusted tarte Tropézienne, plus sandwiches and…
Côte d'Azur
Ideal for conversation and backgammon, this relatively laid-back club and restaurant is tops for steak, and experiments successfully with Asian flavours…
Vaucluse
This catch-all, basic brasserie-bar is where everyone likes to hang out for an evening aperitif, perhaps followed by a simple dish of pasta or a quick…
Parc National du Mercantour
A relaxed, friendly and quite stylish diner overlooking Barcelonnette's handsome main square, place de la Mairie. Pizzas and pastas are the speciality,…
Var
At the edge of the soft harbour sand, dine on steaks, seafood or pasta before heading out on walks across the island. The day's catch, sold by weight and…
Bouches-du-Rhône
St-Rémy's no-frills, casual hang-out for locals abuts the place de la République car park but is always packed, serving fresh local dishes, wine and…
The Luberon
Ménerbes’ tobacconist-newsagent-bar is the hub for all the village gossip, and a good bet for lunchtime plats du jour (dishes of the day).
Parc National du Mercantour
Beamed, small and snug, this unassuming restaurant in the old part of Digne makes a decent stop for Provençal staples and flame-grilled meats.
Marseille
You can still buy the fresh stuff here at the Vieux Port, among the vestiges of what would once have been a thriving quayside fish market.
Marseille
This lively market sells a good range of fresh produce and is the place for picnic supplies. On Monday there are also flowers.
Var
Grab a coffee at the green-canopied Bar Central – you won't get more local and unfussy than this.
Gorges du Verdon
A good lunch spot in the village, with crispy pizzas, filling crêpes and generous salads.
