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Pizzaria Étienne
This old Marseillais haunt has the best pizza in town as well as succulent pavé de boeuf (beef steak) and scrumptious supions frits (pan-fried squid with garlic and parsley), but it's not just the food that packs the place out. Because Pizzaria Étienne is a convivial meeting point for the entire neighbourhood, you'll need to pop in beforehand to reserve in person (there's no phone), though you will get a free aperitif while you wait for a table. Credit cards aren't accepted.
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Pizzeria Chez Jeannot
With a magical setting overlooking the storybook Vallon des Auffes, this affable, affordable joint has fresh-as-it-gets salads, pasta and shellfish, plus piping hot pizzas.
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Restaurant O'Stop
If a night at the opera has made you hungry, there's a place just opposite that can sort you out: a down to earth bar-cum-bistro that welcomes diners any time of day or night. From sandwiches to pasta and regional specialities, the dishes are simple and authentic.
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Une Table au Sud
Chef Lionel Lévy continues to break the Modern Mediterranean mould at his Michelin-starred restaurant with picture windows framing the port. Utilising local ingredients in inventive ways, you (and he) will be surprised every time by his 'surprise menu'. It comprises four imaginative courses in addition to cheese and dessert - which could be anything from a chocolate-and-avocado creation to olive-oil-and-lemon sorbet. A glass lift provides wheelchair access.
