Things to do in Arles
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Musée de l'Arles et de la Provence Antique
The fabulous story of Roman Arles takes centre stage at the state-of-the-art showpiece Musée de l'Arles et de la Provence Antiques. Within the triangular structure, which is fronted by a striking cobalt-blue façade, you can trace the area's evolution from 2500 BC through to the end of antiquity in the 6th century AD, or hone in on thematic aspects of trade, the economy and day-to-day life.
Highlights include Roman statues, artefacts, and a renowned assortment of early Christian sarcophagi from the 4th century.
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Théâtre Antique
Still regularly used for alfresco concerts and plays, the Théâtre Antique dates from the end of the 1st century BC. For hundreds of years it was a source of construction materials, with workers chipping away at the 102m-diameter structure (the column on the right-hand side near the entrance indicates the height of the original arcade).
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Église St-Trophime
This Romanesque-style church was built in the late 11th and 12th centuries on the site of several earlier churches. On the western portal the intricately sculpted tympanum depicts St Trophime, a late 2nd- or early 3rd-century bishop of Arles, holding a spiral staff. The treasury contains bone fragments of Arles’ bishops who were later canonised.
Next door, the evocative 12th- to 14th-century Cloître St-Trophime hosts excellent exhibitions.
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Les Arènes
Slaves, criminals and wild animals (including giraffes) met their dramatic demise before a jubilant 20,000-strong crowd during Roman gladiatorial displays at Les Arènes, built around the late 1st or early 2nd century AD. During the early medieval Arab invasions the arch-laced circular structure, which is 136m long, 107m wide and 21m tall, was topped with four defensive towers to become a fortress. Indeed, by the 1820s, when the amphitheatre was returned to its original use, there were 212 houses and two churches that had to be razed on the site.
Buy tickets for bloody bullfights, bloodless courses Camarguaises, theatre and concerts at the Bureau de Location.
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Van Gogh trail
Accompanied with a brochure (in English) handed out by the tourist office, the evocative Van Gogh trail, a walking circuit of the city marked by footpath-embedded plaques, takes in spots where Van Gogh set up his easel to paint canvases such as Starry Night Over the Rhône (1888). At each stop there's a lectern-style signboard with a reproduction of the painting and interpretative information (also in English).
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La Chambre de Vincent
Van Gogh's little 'yellow house' on place Lamartine, which he painted in 1888, was wiped out during WWII. But to get a sense of stepping into his bedroom - which he sketched and painted several times (or least the sense of stepping into its brightly coloured canvas likeness, skewed perspective and all), La Chambre de Vincent re-creates a life-size approximation. Opening hours can be erratic.
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Aux Petits Singes
Little visitors will be delighted by this adorable 'children's restaurant' where they can sit at tiny tables, play with toys and games, and enjoy their own special menu of a drink, main dish and a 'surprise' (chocolate or similar). Grown-ups' choices range from charcuterie (cold meats) to tartes, salads and soup. Everything - including the cakes - is home-made.
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Jardin des Arts
Opening out to a leafy cloister courtyard adjoining the Espace Van Gogh, this fresh new establishment is popular with locals for light but luscious lunches, and is a hot spot on Saturday nights when it also swings its doors open for dinner. During July and August it doubles as an afternoon salon de thé from 14:00 to 19:00; and artisan ice creams tempt passers-by.
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Musée Camarguais
Inside an 1812-built sheep shed, the Musée Camarguais is a fantastic introduction to this unique area, covering its history, ecosystems, flora and fauna, with a glimpse into traditional life in the region. From here, a 3.5km nature trail leads to an observation tower, with bird's-eye views. The museum is 10km southwest of Arles on the D570 to Stes-Maries de la Mer.
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Museon Arlaten
Museon Arlaten was founded by Nobel Prize-winning poet and dedicated Provençal preservationist Frédéric Mistral. Occupying a 16th-century townhouse, it has displays of traditional Provençal furniture, crafts, costumes, ceramics, wigs, and a model of the mythical people-eating amphibious monster, the Tarasque. Last entry is one hour prior to closing.
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Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques
This museum’s striking, state-of-the-art cobalt-blue building perches on the edge of what used to be the Roman chariot racing track (circus), 1.5km southwest of the tourist office. The rich collection of pagan and Christian art includes stunning mosaics. The museum is also a leading mosaic restoration centre; watch the work in progress.
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Fondation Vincent Van Gogh
This newly renovated gallery houses rotating exhibits and a collection of important modern-day artists, including David Hockney, Francis Bacon and Fernando Botero, paying homage to the artist’s distinctive style.
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L'Atelier
Consider this not a meal, but an 'artistic experience'. Every one of the seven or 13 edible works of art is a wondrous composition of flavours, colours and textures, and no two bites are the same. Sit back and revel in Jean-Luc Rabanel’s superbly crafted symphony of fresh organic tastes. No wonder this charismatic chef with his own veggie patch has two Michelin stars. Wine pairings are an adventure in themselves.
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Lou Marques
Gastronomic treats at the Hôtel Jules César's sumptuous restaurant, within a former 17th-century Carmelite convent, include a fine variety of foie gras, a St-Jacques risotto with red Camargue rice, and a Grand Marnier soufflé served with cool chocolate sorbet.
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Au Brin de Thym
Market-fresh produce is made to look like a work of art at this pretty place fronted by a lavender and white awning and damask-clothed tables. The Provençal menu is a great way to sample creative dishes laced in local olive oil, and there's a strong wine list.
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Les Alyscamps
Works of Van Gogh and Gauguin feature in this large necropolis, 1km southeast of Les Arènes. Founded by the Romans and taken over by Christians in the 4th century, it became a coveted resting place because of the tombs of martyr St Genest and Arles’ first bishops.
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Musée Réattu
This splendid modern art museum is housed in the exquisitely renovated 15th-century Grand Priory of the Knights of Malta. Among its collections are works by 18th- and 19th-century Provençal artists and two paintings and 57 sketches by Picasso. It hosts wonderfully curated cutting-edge exhibitions.
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Cryptoporticus du Forum
Under your feet as you stand on the place du Forum are the underground storerooms Cryptoporticus du Forum, carved out in the 1st century BC. They were closed at the time of research for repairs. Check with the tourist office for reopening dates.
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La Mule Blanche
Jazz plays inside, but the hottest tables at this soulful bistro are on the pavement terrace.
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Espace Van Gogh
Housed in the former hospital where Van Gogh had his ear stitched and was later locked up (not to be confused with the asylum Monastère St-Paul de Mausole) this gallery houses temporary art exhibitions.
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Saturday morning market
Amble the Saturday morning market stretching the length of the main boulevard, selling strong cheese, Camargue salt, olive oil, and bull sausages. On Wednesday, market stalls set up along blvd Émile Combes.
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Cloître St-Trophime
Across the courtyard from the Église St-Trophime, the 12th- and 14th-century Cloître St-Trophime was built to accommodate the monks’ daily lives. It comprises a reading room, dormitory and dining room.
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Le Petit Train d'Arles
Le Petit Train d'Arles is an easy way of glimpsing the main sights without wear and tear on your feet. Tours with English commentary take 35 minutes and depart from Les Arènes and blvd des Lices.
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Food Markets
Stretches the length of the main boulevard selling strong cheese, Camargue salt, olive oil and bull sausages. On Wednesday, market stalls set up along bd Émile Combes (east of Les Arènes).
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Thermes de Constantin
Partly preserved Roman baths were built for Emperor Constantine's private use in the 4th century.
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