Things to do in Arles
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Musée de l'Arles et de la Provence Antique
The fabulous story of Roman Arles takes centre stage at the state-of-the-art showpiece Musée de l'Arles et de la Provence Antiques. Within the triangular structure, which is fronted by a striking cobalt-blue façade, you can trace the area's evolution from 2500 BC through to the end of antiquity in the 6th century AD, or hone in on thematic aspects of trade, the economy and day-to-day life.
Highlights include Roman statues, artefacts, and a renowned assortment of early Christian sarcophagi from the 4th century.
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Théâtre Antique
Still regularly used for projections and plays, the Théâtre Antique dates from the end of the 1st century BC. For hundreds of years it was used as a convenient source of construction materials, with workers chipping away at the 102m-diameter structure (the remaining column on the right-hand side near the entrance indicates the height of the original arcade).
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Église St-Trophime
Arles was an archbishopric from the 4th century until 1790, and this Romanesque-style church was once a cathedral. Built in the late 11th and 12th centuries on the site of several earlier churches, it’s named after St Trophime, a late 2nd- or early 3rd-century bishop of Arles. If you look on the far right of the left-hand side of the western portal, you’ll see an intricately sculpted facade of biblical scenes (more spectacular than the interior), with St Trophime holding a spiral staff in his right hand. Inside the austere church, the most fascinating feature is the treasury, containing bone fragments of Arles’ bishops who were later canonised. Many of the statues inside …
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Les Arènes
Arles' remarkable Roman amphitheatre, Les Arènes, was built around the late first or early second century AD. With a slightly smaller capacity but marginally larger dimensions than its counterpart in Nîmes, it was the venue of choice for chariot races and gladiatorial displays where slaves and criminals met their demise before jubilant crowds.
During the Arab invasions of early medieval times, Les Arènes became a fortress. Three of the four defensive towers still stand (one of which is accessible). Parts of Les Arènes are undergoing restoration, creating community debate about whether the structure should remain in its original condition. But the amphitheatre is far fro…
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Café la Nuit
The Roman place du Forum, shaded by outstretched plane trees, turns into a giant dining table at lunch and dinner during summer. It's also where you'll find Café la Nuit, thought to be the café painted by Van Gogh in his Café Terrace at Night (1888). Painted bright yellow to re-create the effect used by Van Gogh to indicate bright night-time lights, it's invariably packed with tourists dining in front of its famous façade.
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Van Gogh trail
Accompanied with a brochure (in English) handed out by the tourist office, the evocative Van Gogh trail, a walking circuit of the city marked by footpath-embedded plaques, takes in spots where Van Gogh set up his easel to paint canvases such as Starry Night Over the Rhône (1888). At each stop there's a lectern-style signboard with a reproduction of the painting and interpretative information (also in English).
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La Chambre de Vincent
Van Gogh's little 'yellow house' on place Lamartine, which he painted in 1888, was wiped out during WWII. But to get a sense of stepping into his bedroom - which he sketched and painted several times (or least the sense of stepping into its brightly coloured canvas likeness, skewed perspective and all), La Chambre de Vincent re-creates a life-size approximation. Opening hours can be erratic.
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Aux Petits Singes
Little visitors will be delighted by this adorable 'children's restaurant' where they can sit at tiny tables, play with toys and games, and enjoy their own special menu of a drink, main dish and a 'surprise' (chocolate or similar). Grown-ups' choices range from charcuterie (cold meats) to tartes, salads and soup. Everything - including the cakes - is home-made.
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Jardin des Arts
Opening out to a leafy cloister courtyard adjoining the Espace Van Gogh, this fresh new establishment is popular with locals for light but luscious lunches, and is a hot spot on Saturday nights when it also swings its doors open for dinner. During July and August it doubles as an afternoon salon de thé from 14:00 to 19:00; and artisan ice creams tempt passers-by.
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Musée Camarguais
Inside an 1812-built sheep shed, the Musée Camarguais is a fantastic introduction to this unique area, covering its history, ecosystems, flora and fauna, with a glimpse into traditional life in the region. From here, a 3.5km nature trail leads to an observation tower, with bird's-eye views. The museum is 10km southwest of Arles on the D570 to Stes-Maries de la Mer.
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Museon Arlaten
Museon Arlaten was founded by Nobel Prize-winning poet and dedicated Provençal preservationist Frédéric Mistral. Occupying a 16th-century townhouse, it has displays of traditional Provençal furniture, crafts, costumes, ceramics, wigs, and a model of the mythical people-eating amphibious monster, the Tarasque. Last entry is one hour prior to closing.
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Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques
This museum’s striking, state-of-the-art cobalt-blue building perches on the edge of what used to be the Roman chariot racing track (circus), 1.5km southwest of the tourist office. The rich collection of pagan and Christian art includes stunning mosaics. The museum is also a leading mosaic restoration centre; watch the work in progress.
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Fondation Vincent Van Gogh
One of the fitting tributes to Van Gogh’s art is the Fondation Vincent Van Gogh, where important modern-day artists, including David Hockney, Francis Bacon and Fernando Botero, pay homage to the artist’s distinctive style. The collection and its diversity show just how widely Van Gogh’s influence has been felt in the artistic world.
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L'Atelier
A beautiful and modern gastronomic experience. Opt for a series of seven or 13 edible works of art, then sit back and revel in Jean-Luc Rabanel’s superbly crafted symphony of fresh organic tastes. No wonder this green-fingered urban chef with his own veggie patch has two Michelin stars.
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Lou Marques
Gastronomic treats at the Hôtel Jules César's sumptuous restaurant, within a former 17th-century Carmelite convent, include a fine variety of foie gras, a St-Jacques risotto with red Camargue rice, and a Grand Marnier soufflé served with cool chocolate sorbet.
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Au Brin de Thym
Market-fresh produce is made to look like a work of art at this pretty place fronted by a lavender and white awning and damask-clothed tables. The Provençal menu is a great way to sample creative dishes laced in local olive oil, and there's a strong wine list.
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Les Alyscamps
Works of Van Gogh and Gauguin feature in this large necropolis, 1km southeast of Les Arènes. Founded by the Romans and taken over by Christians in the 4th century, it became a coveted resting place because of the tombs of martyr St Genest and Arles’ first bishops.
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Musée Réattu
Housed in a former 15th-century priory, this splendid museum has two Picasso paintings, and 57 sketches from the early 1970s. It also contains works by 18th- and 19th-century Provençal artists, but it’s best known for its cutting-edge photographic displays.
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Cryptoporticus du Forum
Under your feet as you stand on the place du Forum are the underground storerooms Cryptoporticus du Forum, carved out in the 1st century BC. They were closed at the time of research for repairs. Check with the tourist office for reopening dates.
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La Mule Blanche
Jazz piano tinkles in the White Mule’s domed interior, but the hottest tables at this soulful bistro are aboard the pavement terrace, easily the town’s prettiest with its violet awning, Saturday-morning market view and lazy mood.
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Espace Van Gogh
Temporary art exhibitions regularly take place at Espace Van Gogh, housed in the former hospital where Van Gogh had his ear stitched and was later locked up (not to be confused with the asylum Monastère St-Paul de Mausole).
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Saturday morning market
Amble the Saturday morning market stretching the length of the main boulevard, selling strong cheese, Camargue salt, olive oil, and bull sausages. On Wednesday, market stalls set up along blvd Émile Combes.
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Cloître St-Trophime
Across the courtyard from the Église St-Trophime, the 12th- and 14th-century Cloître St-Trophime was built to accommodate the monks’ daily lives. It comprises a reading room, dormitory and dining room.
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Le Petit Train d'Arles
Le Petit Train d'Arles is an easy way of glimpsing the main sights without wear and tear on your feet. Tours with English commentary take 35 minutes and depart from Les Arènes and blvd des Lices.
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Food Markets
Stretches the length of the main boulevard selling strong cheese, Camargue salt, olive oil and bull sausages. On Wednesday, market stalls set up along bd Émile Combes (east of Les Arènes).
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