Park sights in Paris
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Jardin du Luxembourg
This inner-city oasis of formal terraces, chestnut groves and lush lawns has a special place in the hearts of Parisians. Napoleon dedicated the 23 gracefully laid-out hectares of the Luxembourg Gardens to the children of Paris, and many residents spent their childhood prodding 1920s wooden sailboats with long sticks on the octagonal Grand Bassin pond, watching puppets perform Punch & Judy–type shows at the Théâtre des Marionnettes du Jardin du Luxembourg, and riding the carrousel (merry-go-round) or Shetland ponies. All those activities are still here today, as are modern playgrounds and sporting and games venues.
Dozens of apple varieties grow in the orchards in the…
reviewed
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Promenade Plantée
The most innovative green space in the city, the elevated Promenade Plantée was built atop the old Vincennes Railway, in operation from 1859 to 1969. Three stories above ground level, it provides all the usual park amenities – benches, rose trellises, corridors of bamboo – but its real attraction is the unique aerial vantage point on city life and the surrounding architecture.
The viaduct drops back to street level at the Jardin de Reuilly (1.5km), but it’s possible to follow the line all the way to the Bois de Vincennes at the city’s edge. This latter section, known as the Coulée Verte (3km), can also be done on a bike or in-line skates. Access to the elevated…
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Parc du Champ de Mars
Running southeast from the Eiffel Tower, the grassy Champ de Mars was originally used as a parade ground for the cadets of the 18th-century École Militaire, the vast, French-classical building at the southeastern end of the park, which counts none other than Napoleon Bonaparte among its graduates. The wonderful steel-and-etched glass Wall for Peace memorial (2000) facing the academy and the statue of Maréchal Joffre (1870–1931) are by Clara Halter.
Today it’s the ideal spot for a summer picnic. Pick up some bread, cheese and wine on nearby rue Cler (about a 20-minute walk) and you’re all set to enjoy one of the most memorable meals in Paris. Also here are puppet…
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Parc de la Villette
The largest park in Paris, the Parc de la Villette is a cultural centre, kids’ playground and landscaped urban space at the intersection of two canals, the Ourcq and the St-Denis. Its futuristic layout includes the colossal mirrorlike sphere of the Géode cinema and the bright-red cubical pavilions known as folies. Among its themed gardens are the Jardin du Dragon (Dragon Garden), with a giant dragon’s tounge slide for kids, the Jardin des Dunes (Dunes Garden) and Jardin des Miroirs (Mirror Garden).
Events are staged in the wonderful old Grande Halle (formerly a slaughterhouse – the Parisian cattle market was located here from 1867 to 1974), Le Zénith, the Cabaret…
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Bois de Vincennes
In the southeastern corner of Paris, Vincennes Wood encompasses some 995 hectares. It is one of the ‘lungs’ of Paris. On its northern edge, Château de Vincennes is a bona fide royal château with massive fortifications and a moat. The château grounds can be strolled for free, but the 52m-high dungeon (1369), a prison during the 17th and 18th centuries, and the Gothic Chapelle Royale (Royal Chapel) can be visited only by guided tour; call ahead for times.
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Parc des Buttes-Chaumont
This quirky park is one of the city’s largest green spaces; its landscaped slopes hide grottoes, waterfalls, a lake and even an island topped with a temple to Sybil. Once a gypsum quarry and rubbish dump, it was given its present form by Baron Haussmann in time for the opening of the 1867 Exposition Universelle.
It’s a favourite with Parisians, who come here to practise tai chi, take the kids to a puppet show or simply to relax with a bottle of wine and a picnic dinner. The tracks of an abandoned 19th-century railway line (La Petite Ceinture, which once circled Paris) also run through the park.
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Parc de Bercy
Built atop the site of a former wine depot, this large, well-landscaped park is a great place to break for a picnic and let the kids run free. Bercy reached its height as the ‘world’s wine cellar’ in the 19th century: it was right on the Seine, close to Paris yet outside the city walls, meaning that shipping was convenient and commerce tax-free.
Vestiges of its former incarnation are spread across the park and the Cour St-Émilion, where the warehouses were located. In some spots you’ll see the old railroad tracks; in others you’ll find grape vines.
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Parc de Belleville
A few blocks east of blvd de Belleville, this lovely park occupies a hill almost 200m above sea level, set amid 4.5 hectares of greenery. Little known to visitors, the park (which opened in 1992) offers some of the best views of the city.
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Parc Floral de Paris
This magnificent botanical park is one of the highlights of the Bois de Vincennes. Natural landscaping and a magnificent collection of plants will keep amateur gardeners happy, while Paris’ largest play area (giant climbing webs and slides, jungle gyms, sandboxes, etc) will absolutely thrill families. Open-air concerts are staged throughout summer, making it a first-rate picnic destination.
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Canal St-Martin
The tranquil, 4.5km-long Canal St-Martin was inaugurated in 1825 to provide a shipping link between the Seine and the northeastern Parisian suburbs. Emerging from below ground near place République, its shaded towpaths take you past locks, metal bridges and ordinary Parisian neighbourhoods. It’s a great place for a romantic stroll or cycle.
Note that many neighbourhood shops and bistros here are closed on Sundays and Mondays.
reviewed
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