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Marché aux Fleurs
Since 1808, blooms have been sold at this flower market, making it the oldest market of any kind in Paris. This is Paris, so buy some roses and find someone to give them to. On Sunday it transforms into Marché aux Oiseaux, a twittering bird market, so if the flowers aren't enough buy your beloved a peacock.
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Marché aux Puces d'Aligre
Smaller but more central than Paris' other three flea markets, this market is one of the best places in Paris to rummage through cardboard boxes filled with old clothes and one-of-a-kind accessories worn decades ago by fashionable (and not-so-fashionable) Parisians.
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Marché aux Puces de la Porte de Vanves
Paris' smallest flea market is nonetheless worth scouting out for original retro homewares such as '60s cocktail shakers and '70s lamps, as well as new clothes, leather boots, handbags and wallets. The market is located about 2.5km southwest of the Catacombs.
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Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen
Europe's largest flea market has 2500 stalls spread across 10 speciality villages, including amazing antiques and vintage hats and jewellery. The market is at its best on Sunday; Mondays can be very quiet. While here, don't miss lunch at the legendary Chez Louisette. For more on markets, see www.libertys.com and www.vernaison.com.
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Mariage Frères
Founded in 1854, Paris' premier tea shop has a mere 500 varieties from 32 countries to choose from. In summer you can cool off in the 19th-century salon de thé (tearoom) with a choice of five kinds of tea-flavoured ice cream.
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O&Co
This olive oil shop (formerly Oliviers & Co) was the first of what is now a worldwide chain; created by Olivier Baussan, who also founded the natural cosmetic company L'Occitane (there's a L'Occitane boutique on this street at No 55). In addition to Baussan's native Provence, O&Co also stocks oils from Italy, Greece, Israel, Turkey and Portugal.
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Rebecca Rils
Located next to the Musée de L'Érotisme, this sex supermarket has aisles of toys, plus B&D gear, DVDs and outfits (and fitting rooms with red velour chaise longues).
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Red Wheelbarrow Bookstore
This somewhat earnest English-language bookshop has arguably the best selection of 'serious literature' in Paris and helpful, well-read staff. Just around the corner at 13 rue Charles V, their children's bookstore stocks kids books as well as university texts. Both shops are very welcome additions to the English-language book trade in Paris.
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Shakespeare & Company
Fossicking through this 'wonderland of books' (as Henry Miller described it) unearths bargains, but Shakespeare & Co is best known for nurturing writers . Its legendary open-invitation tea parties are held at most Sundays, and readings at most Mondays. Legends-in-the-making include travel writing workshops and an open-to-all-comers writers' group at on Saturday afternoons.
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Shine
Get glammed up at this trendsetting boutique stocking hand-picked pieces from the current crop of designer darlings such as Stella McCartney's creations for Chloé.
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Sonia Rykiel
In the heady days of May 1968, amid Paris' student uprisings, Sonia Rykiel opened her inaugural boutique here; she went on to revolutionise garments with her inverted seams, 'no hems' and 'no lining'. Her diffusion labels are housed in separate boutiques nearby.
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Tati
With its war cry of les plus bas prix (lowest prices) - and quality to match - Tati has been Paris' great working-class clothing store for 50 years. Don't be surprised to see trendy Parisians fighting for bargains hidden in the crammed bins and piled high on tables.
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Un Chien dans le Marais
For the dog that has everything. This little boutique stocks nothing but dog outfits in all sizes. Pick out a design perfectly suited to your pooch from the latest winter and summer 'collections' while owner Franck Woerther's pet rabbits, Thelma and Louise, lope underfoot (Thelma was actually belatedly discovered to be a boy, but hey, this is the Marais, baby).
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Viaduc des Arts
Beneath the Promenade Plantée, in the brick arches of its 19th-century viaduct, traditional craftsmen and women carry out renovations and repairs of all manner of antiques, and create new items using traditional methods. The 50 artisans include furniture and tapestry restorers, interior designers, cabinet makers, violin- and flute-makers, embroiderers and jewellers.
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Village Voice
On a quaint left bank backstreet, this English-language bookshop specialises in North American literature (great for picking up obscure Hemingway novellas), and has an excellent range of French literature in translation. Good-natured staff are well-read and helpful, and the shop hosts lots of readings and literary events.
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Zut!
If you're looking for a conversation piece to dominate your lounge room, such as a turn-of-the-20th-century railway clock or other over-size industrial object, Zut's proprietor, Frédéric Daniel, can help you track it down. Even if you're not, it's worth sticking your head around the doorway to see some resplendent relics of Paris' past. Frédéric also does repairs.
