Shopping in Paris
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Le Bon Marché
Built by Gustave Eiffel as Paris’ first department store in 1852, Le Bon Marché translates as ‘good market’ but also means ‘bargain’, which it isn’t. But it is the epitome of style, with a superb concentration of men’s and women’s fashions, beautiful homewares, stationery and a good range of books and toys as well as chic dining options.
The icing on the cake is its glorious food hall, La Grande Épicerie de Paris.
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Colette
Uber-hip is an understatement. Ogle at designer fashion on the 1st floor, and streetwear, limited-edition sneakers, art books, music, gadgets and other hi-tech, inventive and/or plain unusual items on the ground floor. End with a drink in the basement ‘water bar’ and pick up free design magazines and flyers for some of the city’s hippest happenings by the door upon leaving.
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APC
The hip streetwear of the renovated and expanded Atelier de Production et Création (Production and Creation Workshop) is very popular with those young Parisian guys with pop-rock haircuts, white sneakers and jeans. The focus is on simple lines and straight cuts, though some pieces are more adventurous. It also has women’s clothes. There’s also a branch on rue de Marsaille ([tel] 01 42 39 84 46; 5 rue de Marseille, 10e; [hrs] 11.30am-8pm; [metro] Jacques Bonsergent).
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Shakespeare & Company
A kind of spell descends as you enter this enchanting bookshop, where nooks and crannies overflow with new and secondhand English-language books. Fabled for nurturing writers, at night its couches turn into beds where writers stay in exchange for stacking shelves. Readings by emerging to illustrious authors take place at 7pm most Mondays; it also hosts workshops and literary festivals.
The bookshop is the stuff of legends. The original shop (12 rue l’Odéon, 6e; closed by the Nazis in 1941) was run by Sylvia Beach and became the meeting point for Hemingway’s ‘Lost Generation’. American-born George Whitman opened the present incarnation in 1951, attracting a beat-poet…
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Erotokritos
Greek-Cypriot Erotokritos’ clothes are chic and colourful, combining and contrasting fabrics with amazing prints. They’re also quite affordable, considering the designer’s reputation. There’s also a Les Halles branch ([tel] 01 42 21 44 60; 58 rue d’Argout, 2e; [hrs] 1-7.30pm Mon, 11am-7.30pm Tue-Sat; [metro] Sentier).
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Fauchon
Paris’ most famous caterer has a half-dozen departments in two buildings selling the most incredibly mouthwatering delicacies, from pâté de foie gras and truffles to confitures (jams).
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Comptoir de la Gastronomie
This elegant épicerie fine (specialist grocer) stocks a scrumptious array of gourmet goods to take away; it adjoins a striking art nouveau dining room dating to 1894.
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Aspasie & Mathieu
For old-fashioned accessories like gentlemen’s pocket watches, ladies’ hats and walking canes, browse Aspasie & Mathieu in the Latin Quarter.
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Marché Couvert St-Quentin
Iron-and-glass covered market built in 1866; lots of gourmet and upmarket food stalls.
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Bonton Bazar
This ode to childhood sells a mix of toys, kids’ chopsticks (handy for families dining out a lot in Paris), kitchen and bathroom wares (polka-dotted cutlery, black rubber ducks with fishing rods), bedroom decorations, pedal-powered metal cars and so on.
Quaint, retro fashion of the same timeless ilk for babies and kids respectively is the focus of nearby boutiques including Bébé Bonton and Grenelle Bonton. Its 800-sq-m concept store Grand Bonton is on the Right Bank.
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Galeries Lafayette
Probably the best known of the big Parisian department stores, Galeries Lafayette is spread across three buildings: the main store (the historic dome of which just turned 100 in 2012), the men’s store and the home-design store.
You can check out modern art in the gallery, take in a fashion show at 3pm on Fridays, or ascend to the rooftop for a windswept Parisian panorama (free). When your legs need a break, head to one of the many restaurants and cafes inside.
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La Petite Robe Noire
Paris being Paris, there’s secondhand…and secondhand: in the rag trade since 1975, collector Didier Ludot not only sells the city’s finest couture creations of yesteryear in his exclusive twinset of boutiques Didier Ludot, he also hosts fashion exhibitions in the neighbouring galleries of the Palais Royal, and has published a book portraying the evolution of the little black dress, brilliantly brought to life in his boutique that sells just that, La Petite Robe Noire.
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Hôtel Drouot
Selling everything from antiques and jewellery to rare books and art, Paris’ most established auction house has been in business for more than a century. Viewings are from 11am to 6pm the day before and from 11am to noon the morning of the auction.
If you plan on stopping by, make sure you pick up a copy of the weekly catalog Gazette de l’Hôtel Drouot, available at the auction house and selected newsstands on Friday.
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Puzzle Michèle Wilson
Puzzleurs and puzzleuses will love the selection of hand-cut wooden jigsaw puzzles available in this shop. Ranging in size (and degree of difficulty) from 80 to 5000 pieces, the puzzles depict for the most part major works of art; everyone from Millet and Bosch to the impressionists is represented.
The ones of medieval stained glass and 18th-century fans are particularly fine. There are two other outlets in Paris.
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Didier Ludot
In the rag trade since 1975, collector Didier Ludot sells the city’s finest couture creations of yesteryear in his exclusive twinset of boutiques, hosts exhibitions, and has published a book portraying the evolution of the little black dress, brilliantly brought to life in his boutique that sells just that, La Petite Robe Noire.
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Espace IGN
The most ubiquitous (and user-friendly) pocket-sized street atlas available is L’Indispensable’s Paris Practique par Arrondissement (€4.90) – newer versions also include Vélib’ stations – though the similar Paris Utile (€4.50) from Blay Foldex has its supporters. More detailed is Michelin’s Paris Poche Plan (No 50; €2.20). All of these are usually available from the Institut Géographique National bookstore Espace IGN, which also sells walking maps, city plans, compasses, satellite images, historic maps and guidebooks.
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Cacao et Chocolat
You haven’t tasted chocolate till you’ve had a hot chocolate (€3.50) spiced with cinnamon, ginger or cayenne pepper at this exotic shop showcasing cocoa beans in every guise. Citrus, spice and chilli are among the flavoured bars to buy here or at its outlets in the Marais ([tel] 01 42 71 50 06; 36 rue Vieille du Temple, 4e; [hrs] 11am-7.30pm; [metro] St-Paul) and on Île St-Louis ([tel] 01 46 33 33 33; 63 rue St-Louis en l’Île, 4e; [hrs] 10.30am-7.30pm; [metro] Pont Marie).
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Le Petit Bazar
A real quartier (neighbourhood) boutique with a distinctly ‘green’ philosophy, this emporium for tots has it all: imaginative games and toys, clothes, bedroom furnishings and accessories, stuff for school and babycare products – all organic, recycled or made by local artisans. Help yourself to a herbal tea or juice and slice of home-made cake (fill in your own bill and pay at the counter).
There’s a clutch of music workshops for toddlers (aged one to five).
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Marithé & François Girbaud
This globetrotting designer couple call themselves ‘jeanologists’, having devoted themselves to more than 30 years of denim. They have four other boutiques in Paris.
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Fragonard
This Parisian perfume maker has alluring natural scents in elegant bottles as well as candles, essential oils and soaps. In addition to the splendid smells, there’s a small, expensive and very tasteful selection of clothing, hand-stitched linen tablecloths and napkins.
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Tati
This bargain-filled, rough-and-tumble, frill-free department store is every fashionable Parisian’s guilty secret.
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Merci
The landmark Fiat Cinquecento in the courtyard marks the entrance to this unique multistorey concept store whose rallying cry is one-stop shopping. Fashion, accessories, linens, lamps and various other nifty designs for the home (a kitchen brush made from recycled egg shells and coffee grounds anyone?).
And a trio of inspired eating-drinking spaces complete Paris’ hippest shopping experience. All proceeds go to a children’s charity in Madagascar.
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La Vallée Village
This shopping centre within the Disneyland Resort, 30km east of Paris, contains some 75 big-name outlets (Christian Lacroix, Kenzo, Versace et al) offering discounts on last season’s clothing, accessories and tableware. From Paris, take RER line A4 (€5.60, 30 to 35 minutes) to the Val d’Europe station. Alternatively, Cityrama Tuileries) three times weekly, departing at 10.15am and returning at 4pm; book in advance.
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Les Ruchers du Roy
‘The King’s Apiaries’ sells honey and apiarian products fit for a monarch – especially its pure royal jelly, a substance secreted by worker bees and fed to future queen bees. It sells dozens of types of honey, including those made from one single type of flower (miels monofloraux), honeys made from a number of blossoms (miels polyfloraux) and various regional honeys (miels des régions).
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Hédiard
This famous luxury food shop established in 1854 consists of two adjacent sections selling prepared dishes, teas, coffees, jams, wines, pastries, fruits, vegetables and so on, as well as a restaurant, where tea is served from 3pm to 6pm.
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