Neobistro restaurants in Paris
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A
L’Avant Goût
A prototype of the Parisian neo-bistro, the ‘Foretaste’ has chef Christophe Beaufront serving some of the most inventive modern cuisine around. Tables count little more than a dozen and the place gets noisy. But the food is different and divine – don’t miss his signature dish, pot au feu au cochon aux épices (spicy pork stew).
Advance reservations are vital but, should you miss out, you can get takeaway dishes from its nearby wine shop, L’Avant-Goût Coté Cellier.
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B
Café Constant
Take a former Michelin-star chef and a dead-simple corner cafe and what do you get? This jam-packed address with original mosaic floor, wooden tables and huge queues every meal time. The pride and joy of Christian and Catherine Constant, it doesn’t take reservations but you can enjoy a drink at the bar (or on the pavement outside) while you wait.
Cuisine is creative bistro, mixing old-fashioned grandma staples like purée de mon enfance (mashed potato from my childhood) with Sunday treats like foie-gras-stuffed quail and herb-roasted chicken. Les Cocottes, a couple of doors down on the same street, is another Constant hit.
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C
L’Agrume
Snagging a table at L’Agrume – meaning ‘Citrus Fruit’ – is tough; reserve several days ahead. The reward is watching chefs work with seasonal products in the open kitchen while you dine – at a table, bar stool or comptoir (counter) – at this pocket-sized contemporary bistro on a little-known street on the Latin Quarter’s southern fringe.
Lunching is magnificent value and a real gourmet experience. Evening dining is an exquisite, no-choice dégustation (tasting) melody of five courses, different every day.
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D
Jadis
This upmarket neo-bistro on the corner of a very unassuming street in the 15e is one of Paris’ most raved about (ie reserve in advance). Traditional French dishes pack a modern punch thanks to the daring of rising-star chef Guillaume Delage, who braises pork cheeks in beer and uses black rice instead of white.
The lunch menu is extraordinarily good value and the chocolate soufflé – order it at the start of your meal – is divine.
reviewed