The ‘Vinotheque’, a trattoria across the street from the historic Village St-Paul, serves haute cuisine à l’italienne and an excellent list of Italian wines by the glass to accompany it. It’s no secret that this is one of the few Italian wine bars in Paris to take its vino seriously (there are 400 labels in the cellar), so book ahead.

Pasta dishes (€17 to €23) are excellent, as is the generous tavola antipasti (antipasto buffet table) served at lunch.