Italian restaurants in Paris
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A
Michelangelo
A one-man show, chef Michelangelo does it all – the shopping, the chopping, the table-waiting, the cooking, the sitting down with guests for a glass of wine while the pasta is boiling…it is, in fact, the equivalent of being invited over to a Sicilian chef’s house for dinner. There are things to know, of course: 1) there are only 14 chairs (everyone eats at a long table in front of the open kitchen) so reservations are mandatory; 2) Michelangelo chooses the menu (three courses, about €25, cash only), so you have to be somewhat adventurous; and 3) all the products – the olive oil, the wine (from €28 per bottle), the cheese – come from Sicily, so if there’s no more oregano t…
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B
Casa Bini
With classical façade and sober interior, the décor clearly plays second fiddle to cuisine at this highly recommended Italian restaurant where homemade pasta is cooked to al dente perfection and children are treated like gods. Be it squid and creamed courgette soup, tagliolini studded with white summer truffles or a classic veal saltimbocca (veal escalope flavoured with ham, thyme and sage), tastebuds won’t be disappointed. Lunch, which has a different menu from that after dusk (including a tasty €16 carpaccio de jour), is a more affordable affair.
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C
L’Enoteca
The ‘Vinotheque’, a trattoria in the historic Village St-Paul quarter of the Marais, serves haute cuisine à l’italienne, and there’s an excellent list of Italian wines by the glass (€3.50 to €9). It’s no secret that this is one of the few Italian wine bars in Paris to take its vino seriously (there are 400 labels in the cellar), so book ahead. Pasta dishes (€13 to €18) are good, as is the generous tavola antipasti (antipasto buffet table) at lunch.
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D
Swann et Vincent
Unpretentious French staff can help you select from the huge blackboard, where at least two of the starters, pastas and main dishes change every day. Go slow on the complimentary basket of olive-and-sweet-herb bread, though; you need to leave room for the tiramisu (€6.50). And, if you must know, Swann and Vincent, whose larger-than-life portraits as children face you through the front window opposite at No 14, are the sons of the owner.
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E
Bistro Romain Champs-Élysées
This ever-popular Italian-ish bistro-restaurant chain, which has some 14 branches in Paris proper and another nine in the banlieues (suburbs), is a surprisingly upmarket place for its price category, and service is always pleasant and efficient. The Champs-Élysées branch, one of a pair along the city’s most famous thoroughfare, is a stone’s throw from place Charles de Gaulle and the Arc de Triomphe.
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F
Inamorati Caffè
This long and narrow storefront space filled with tables covered in checked tablecloths attracts a loyal and local clientele who love the authentic (and ample) dishes, prepared by partners Salvatore and Rocco. The mammoth salads and risotto are excellent choices but we usually go for something in a marmite (cooking pot), be it homemade cheese-stuffed ravioli with meatballs or the fisherman’s stew of shellfish.
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G
Bistro Florentin
Expect excellent Italian fare amid cosy surrounds: grilled, finely seasoned aubergine for starters, tiramisu as light as a feather for dessert and, in between, a wide choice of mains and pastas (€12 to €17). The penne à la crème d’artichauts (penne with cream and artichokes; €15) is superb as is the ravioli à la gorgonzola aux épinards (spinach and cheese ravioli). Pizzas are €8 to €13.
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H
Bistro Romain
This ever-popular Italian-ish bistro–restaurant chain, which has a dozen branches in Paris proper and seven in the banlieues (suburbs), is a surprisingly upmarket place for its price category, and service is always pleasant and efficient. The Champs-Élysées branch is a stone’s throw from place Charles de Gaulle and the Arc de Triomphe.
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I
Caffé Boboli
Affordable Italian fare in the heart of the Marais? Not as preposterous a notion as you might think with this small restaurant run by two young Florentines. The food is very wholesome and based on vegetables, cheese and charcuterie like Parma ham and beef carpaccio. On the walls are original paintings and photographs that are changed every few months.
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J
Le Cherche Midi
This popular restaurant with red awning and classic interior buzzes all the more at weekends when shoppers (Saturday) and those out for a stroll (Sunday) make a beeline for Le Cherche Midi’s small sunlit pavement terrace. Cuisine is Italian, classic and elegant. Get here by 12.30pm and 8pm respectively to be sure of getting a table.
reviewed
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K
Da Mimmo
Neither the less-than-salubrious neighbourhood nor the relatively high prices are enough to keep fans away from this delightful trattoria with its authentic Neapolitan cuisine. Naples is, of course, the birthplace of pizza (€11.50 to €20); try one with rocket and forget about pizzas of the past.
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L
Il Duca
This intimate little Italian restaurant has good, straightforward food, including homemade pastas (€11 to €15). The selection of Italian wine and cheese is phenomenal; themed weeks, with various regions and types of produce, are scheduled throughout the year.
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M
La Passacaille
This welcoming Italian place has particularly good pizzas (€ 8.10 to € 10.50) and fresh pasta (€8.90 to €9.90).
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La Briciola
Excellent pizzas, salads and wine at this friendly hole-in-the-wall Italian eatery in the northern Marais.
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