L'Épi d'Or

restaurants / French

Lonely Planet review

The ‘Golden Sword’ has been an institution since the belle époque, when it would open at 10pm to serve the ‘forts des halles’, the brutes who stacked the ‘devils’, huge bags of potatoes and cabbage, all night at the old Marché des Halles. Today it’s an oh-so-Parisian bistro with 1940s décor and well-prepared, classic dishes – gigot d’agneau (leg of lamb; €18) cooked for seven hours, magret de canard (sliced duck breast; €22) – to a surprisingly well-heeled crowd. The menus are available at lunch and till 9pm only.