French, Brasserie restaurants in Paris
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A
Au Pied de Cochon
This venerable establishment, which once satisfied the appetites of both market porters and theatre-goers with its onion soup and pieds de cochon (pig’s feet or trotters), has become more uniformly upmarket and touristy since Les Halles was moved to the suburbs, but it still opens round the clock seven days a week as it has since the end of WWII.
reviewed
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B
La Coupole
The famous mural-covered columns (painted by such artists as Brancusi and Chagall), dark wood panelling and soft lighting have hardly changed an iota since the days of Sartre, Soutine, Man Ray, the dancer Josephine Baker and other regulars. The reason for visiting this enormous, 450-seat brasserie, designed by the Solvet brothers and opened in 1927, is more history than gastronomy. You can book for lunch, but you’ll have to queue for dinner; though there’s always breakfast. The more expensive menus are available until 6pm and after 10.30pm.
reviewed
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C
Le Train Bleu
We can state in all confidence that you’ve never – ever – seen a railway station restaurant as sumptuous as this heritage-listed belle époque showpiece that has been the backdrop of a fair few films in the past. This is the top-end spot to dine on such fare as foie gras with a confiture of red onions, grapes and hazelnuts, Charolles beef steak tartare and chips and the house-made baba au rhum. Sunday brunch is from 11.30am to 2.30pm, just enough time before boarding that train to the Côte d’Azur.
reviewed
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D
Le Vaudeville
This stunning brasserie opposite the stock exchange is to art deco what the Left Bank’s Bouillon Racine is to art nouveau. OK, the food – steaks, fish, oysters – might be something of an afterthought at this branch of the Flo chain, but at least you can be guaranteed a certain standard. Come for the fabulous décor – engraved glass, extravagant lighting, domed ceiling and intricate ironwork – designed in the 1920s by the Solvet brothers, who also did La Coupole.
reviewed
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E
La Closerie des Lilas
As anyone who has read Hemingway will know, what is now the American Bar at the ‘Lilac Enclosure’ is where Papa did a lot of writing, drinking and oyster slurping; brass plaques tell you exactly where he and other luminaries such as Picasso, Apollinaire, Man Ray, Jean-Paul Sartre and Samuel Beckett stood or sat (or fell) and whiled away the hours. The place is split into piano bar, chic restaurant and more lovable (and cheaper) brasserie with hedged-in pavement terrace.
reviewed
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L'Arbuci
A popular choice for breakfast or brunch, this airy lounge bar with big, street-facing windows buzzes. Its décor is a contemporary take on traditional brasserie-style and the easygoing menu caters to all tastes, including those whose buds go wild over bottomless plates of oysters. Prime real estate, the packed tables on the pavement terrace in front see you vying for foot space with passing pedestrians. Live jazz in the basement on Fridays and Saturdays.
reviewed
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G
Les Fous de l'Île
No longer the arty café-cum-salon de thé that served somewhat uneven dishes and hung artwork of varying degrees of ability, this place has reinvented itself as a somewhat genteel brasserie, retaining the open kitchen and adding a cockerel theme (we don’t know either) throughout. Try any of their Spanish-inspired tapas or the ‘real’ (their claim, not ours) cassoulet (hearty casserole or stew with beans and meat).
reviewed
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H
Les Grandes Marches
This futuristic modern brasserie next to the ‘Great Steps’ of the Opéra Bastille was designed by Elisabeth and Christian Portzamparc for the Flo group. The result has been less than impressive both in décor and food served but it has a convenient (and much-coveted) location and good value at lunch when the plat du jour is €13.50. The bar stays open till 2am daily.
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Terminus Nord
The ‘North Terminus’ is a brasserie with a copper bar, waiters in white uniforms, brass fixtures and mirrored walls that look as they did when it opened in 1925. Breakfast (€7.90) is available from 8am to 11am, and full meals are served continuously from 11am to 1am. It’s a museum-quality time piece and an excellent place for a final meal before returning home.
reviewed
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J
Le Petit Zinc
Not a ’little bar’ as its name would suggest, but a wonderful, large brasserie serving mountains of fresh seafood, traditional French cuisine and regional specialities from the southwest in true art nouveau splendour. The term ‘brasserie’ is used loosely here; you’ll feel more like you’re in a starred restaurant, so book ahead and dress accordingly.
reviewed
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K
Brasserie Thoumieux
Chef Christian Beguet has been here since 1979 – and that’s just the tip of the iceberg. Founded in 1923, Thoumieux is an old-school institution just south of the Seine, loved by politicians and tourists alike. Duck thighs, veal, snails…the menu is typical brasserie and the service silky smooth. It has 10 rooms up top should you need to crash.
reviewed
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L
Brasserie Lipp
Politicians rub shoulders with intellectuals, while waiters in black waistcoats, bow ties and long white aprons serve brasserie favourites like choucroute garnie and jarret de porc aux lentilles (pork knuckle with lentils) at this celebrated wood-panelled café, opened by Léonard Lipp in 1880.
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