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Angélina
Situated under the cloisters, this glorious 1903 belle époque tearoom is renowned for its wonderful African hot chocolate, served with a pot of whipped cream. If you're travelling with kids, accommodating staff make them welcome here. If you're travelling toute seule (on your own), pick up a book from Gagliani, France's first English-language bookstore, at neighbouring 224 rue de Rivoli.
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Au Pied de Cochon
The former halles (markets; described by French novelist Emile Zola as the 'belly of Paris') may have shifted out of the centre nearly half a century ago, but this enduring brasserie specialising in pig's trotters still opens around the clock, just as it did when marketeers started and ended their day here. Trotters aside, there are hearty breakfasts and onion soup.
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Au Rocher de Cancale
Rue Montorgueil was the oyster market of the old halles , and this timber-lined restaurant opened in 1846 is its legacy. Virtually unchanged since the days of the markets, there's a choice of three plats du jour plus two chef's suggestions, alongside oysters from Cancale, Brittany's foremost oyster port. Everything here, including the wine, is great value.
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Aux Négociants
The Montmartre known and loved by Charles Aznavour is alive and well at this jovial, locally patronised wine bar serving rib-sticking classics such as bœuf bourguignon.
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Brasserie de l'Ile St-Louis
Renowned for Alsatian cuisine, with various dishes doused in riesling, you might just as easily be in a winstub on Strasbourg's Grand Île a few kilometres from the German border - were it not for the views of Notre Dame from the terrace. Even if you're not dining, it's a spectacular setting for a drink.
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Café Marly
The glittering views of IM Pei's glass pyramid, and of the French movers, shakers and stars who frequent this cafe, make drinking and/or dining here a classic Parisian experience. The perfect spot to refresh the senses during a day at the Louvre.
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Charlot, Roi des Coquillages
These Art Deco premises enjoy a regal reputation among Parisians for their trademark seafood platters, but Charlot also does delicious grilled sardines, and bouillabaisse to make any Marseillais homesick. Lunch menus are terrific value.
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Chez Nicos
The blackboard outside crêpe artist Nicos' unassuming little shop chalks up an overwhelming variety of fillings, but ask by name for his 'La Crêpe du Chef', which is stuffed with aubergines, feta, mozzarella, lettuce, tomatoes and onions. There's a handful of tables inside; otherwise head to a nearby park.
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Comptoir de la Gastronomie
Here since 1894, this gorgeous Art Nouveau establishment has an elegant dining room where dishes are constructed around delicacies such as foie gras, truffles and caviar. The adjoining épicerie (specialist grocer) stocks a scrumptious array of gourmet goods to take home.
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Crêperie Bretonne
Authentic down to its crisp-at-the-edges buckwheat galettes and perfectly buttered sweet crêpes (with salted butter, of course), this place is filled with emotive photos of Brittany, and, joy of joys, serves brut Val de Rance cider. Yec'hed mat (that's Breton for cheers)!
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L'Atelier de Joël Robouchon
The legendary Robouchon serves inspired cuisine at long black-lacquered bars rather than separate tables, reflecting the increasing numbers of Parisians dining alone who still want to eat very well. Bar Signature is also here.
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La Charlotte en l'Île
The Île St-Louis has some wonderful tearooms, but this fairytale place next door to the Librairie Ulysse is the island's most enchanting. It serves Turkish coffee, hot chocolate and pastries, along with dozens of varieties of tea, and cosying up at the tiny tables here is especially atmospheric on a winter's evening. If this doesn't inspire romance, nothing will.
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La Tour d'Argent
In its four-and-a-quarter centuries (it opened in 1582), the 'silver tower' has refined every facet of fine dining. Its signature quenelles de brochet (pike-perch dumplings) and pressed duck continues to mesmerise diners, as do its glimmering views over Notre Dame and the Seine.
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Le Chansonnier
Behind a claret-coloured façade, Le Chansonnier's antique zinc bar and moulded cornices are lined with autographed photos of the singers who've performed at soirées here. Classic French bistro fare includes confit of duck with garlic potatoes or a traditional mijoté pot of rabbit with green olives, and there's a good children's menu, too.
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Le Coude Fou
The bar of this cosy tiled and muraled bistro is always buzzing with local customers, who come for the specialist wines as well as hearty classic fare. It's at its most animated during its convivial Sunday brunch, which is more like a traditional French lunch.
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Le Dôme
So the stories go, it was here in this magnificent brasserie that Gertrude Stein allegedly convinced Henri Matisse to open his artists' academy - only for Matisse to add his voice to the Testimony against Gertrude Stein petition over her 1933 Autobiography of Alice B Toklas . Le Dôme is still one of the swishest places around for a seafood extravaganza.
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Le Grand Véfour
Chef Guy Martin preserves the reputation of this 1784-opened splendour, replete with gilt-edged mirrors and chandeliers, whose past guests included Napoleon. Martin's signature foie gras ravioli in truffle cream sauce is nonpareil; and a sommelier is on hand to pair Martin's opuses with the finest of French wines.
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Le Jules Verne
Book way ahead to dine on Alain Reix's Michelin-starred cuisine in moody black surrounds on the Eiffel Tower's 2nd level, accessed by private lift. For something less rarefied, Altitude 95 (tel 01 45 55 20 04; fax 01 47 05 94 40) on level one serves lunch and dinner daily, along with views of the Seine from its bay windows.
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Le Relais Gascon
Climbing the wooden staircase to this narrow townhouse's 1st-floor dining room rewards with rooftop views of Montmartre. The solidly French menu includes seafood and meat dishes, but locals pack the communal tables here to tuck into one of Gascon's gargantuan salads, served in giant bowls with thin-sliced fried potatoes sautéed in garlic.
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Le Tambour
The 'Drum' is a landmark in Paris with crazy hours and friendly but brisk service. It attracts a mixed, somewhat rowdy, crowd; you'll enjoy the recycled street furniture, the straightforward cuisine (served well into the night) and the cocky, moustached staff. The cafe-bar is open until early morning.
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Le Train Bleu
This railway station's resplendent, heritage-listed belle époque showpiece gives new meaning to travelling in style. Dine on vanilla-flavoured velvet crab, followed by grilled lobster flambéed in Cognac, caramelised pear sorbet, and a pot of Blue Moon Ceylon tea. There's an excellent children's menu, and a sumptuous bar for a digestif before boarding your train to the Côte d'Azur.
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Les Deux Abeilles
Just around the corner from the Musée du Quai Branly, the faded floral wallpaper and even the somewhat stuffy service make this tearoom a charmingly old-fashioned stop for authentic baked treats like clafoutis aux cerises (cherry flan), Madeline cakes, and quiche.
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Les Deux Magots
If ever there were a cafe that summed up St-Germain des Prés' early-20th-century literary scene, it's this former hangout of anyone who was anyone. You will spend beaucoup to sip a coffee at a wicker chair on the terrace shaded by dark-green awnings and geraniums spilling from window boxes, but it's an undeniable piece of Parisian history.
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les ombres
Paris not only gained a new museum in the Musée du Quai Branly, but it also gained this steel-and-glass-roofed 5th floor restaurant. Named les ombres (the shadows) for the patterns cast by the Eiffel Tower's webbed ironwork, the dramatic views are complemented by Arnaud Busquet's elegant creations such as pan-seared tuna with sesame seeds and onion rings, or lamb with zucchini ravioli and gingerbread.
Showing 1-24 of 24 results






