This is a lovely little bistro with no menu as such (ardoise means ‘blackboard’, which is all there is), but who cares? The food – fricassee of corn-fed chicken with morels, pork cheeks in ginger, hare in black pepper, prepared dextrously by chef Pierre Jay (ex-Tour d’Argent) – is superb. The menu changes every three weeks and the three-course prix fixe (set menu) offers good value.

L’Ardoise is bound to attract a fair number of tourists due to its location, but generally they too are on a culinary quest.