Bistro restaurants in Paris
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A
Chartier
Chartier started life as a bouillon (soup kitchen) in 1896 and is a real gem because of its justifiably famous, 330-seat belle époque dining room. It’s no longer the deal as it once was, but for a taste of old-fashioned Paris, it’s unbeatable. Reservations are not accepted and some customers have been turned away at the last minute on busy nights – if there’s a long queue, head elsewhere.
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Au Pied de Fouet
This busy address with Bordeaux facade, tightly packed tables and devout crowd of regulars is an authentic bistro choice. Its classic dishes are astonishingly good value. Finish with a quintessential tarte tatin (upside-down apple pie), wine-soaked prunes or a simple bowl of fromage blanc (a cross between yoghurt, sour cream and cream cheese).
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Le Casier à Vin
The bottle-lined walls, ham-cutting machine, wood-slat blinds and tatty mustard façade promise great things. Indeed, this much-loved bistro is a dining staple in most 15e Parisians’ daily lives. Titillate your tastebuds with a signature assiette de dégustation (tasting platter; €12.50) of fromage (cheese) or charcuterie (cold cuts), or go for a classic like pot au feu de canard (duck stew) or tartare de bœuf (steak tartare). After the main course, sweeten your tastebuds with a bowl of riz au lait à l’ancienne (old-fashioned rice pudding) and leave in love with the place.
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Jadis
This upmarket néo-bistro with sober Bordeaux facade and white lace curtains on the corner of a very unassuming street in the 15e is one of Paris’ most raved about (reserve in advance to avoid disappointment). Traditional French dishes pack a modern punch thanks to rising-star chef Guillaume Delage who dares to do things like braise pork cheeks in beer and use black rice instead of white. The lunch menu is extraordinary good value and the chocolate soufflé – order it at the start of your meal – is nothing other than to-die-for heavenly. From the metro station, walk south along rue de la Convention and take the first right onto rue de la Croix Nivert.
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Au Petit Monsieur
We’re still out to lunch, as it were, on this new avatar of the much missed C’Amelot, but ‘At the Little Guy’ looks like it might win some hearts with starters like risotto aux deux artichaux, caviar de tomates confites (risotto with two types of artichokes with glazed tomato) and mains like millefeuille de rouget et sa ratatouillle (red mullet in flaky pastry with Mediterranean vegetable ‘stew’). The atmosphere is less staid than C’Amelot was too.
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L'Agrume
Lunching at this much vaunted, pocket-sized contemporary bistro on an unknown street on the Latin Quarter’s southern fringe is magnificent value and a real gourmet experience. Watch chefs work with seasonal products in the open kitchen while you dine – at table, bar-stool seating or comptoir (counter). Evening dining is an exquisite, no-choice dégustation (tasting) melody of five courses, different every day. Snagging a table at L’Agrume – meaning ‘Citrus Fruit’ is tough; reserve several days ahead.
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Bistroy Les Papilles
This hybrid bistro, wine cellar and épicerie with sunflower-yellow facade is one of those fabulous dining experiences that packs out the place (reserve a few days in advance to guarantee a table). Dining is at simply dressed tables wedged beneath bottle-lined walls, and fare is market-driven: each weekday cooks up a different marmite du marché (€16). But what really sets it apart is its exceptional wine list. Taste over lunch then stock your own cave (wine cellar) at Les Papilles’ cave à vin.
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Le Buisson Ardent
Stéphane Mauduit (gastronomy-mad chef) and his childhood, wine-mad mate, Jean-Thomas Lopez, head the team at this pocket-sized bistrot gastronomique w here a local set flocks for lunch. In true bistro fashion, tables are jammed tightly together and the cuisine is traditional with an inventive kick. Think cheese-stuffed courgette, minestrone soup with pan-fried langoustine tails or scallops with a chicory fondue and sweet pepper ‘n’ anchovy coulis.
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Aux Crus de Bourgogne
A favourite of André Malraux, this bistro dating back to 1900 on a pedestrian street just off busy rue Montorgueil has a penchant for fish and seafood – especially lobster (half a lobster with mayonnaise is €25). As its name implies, Burgundy is the wine of choice. A real plus in the warmer months is the open terrace, which allows you to enjoy your crustaceans without a side order of exhaust fumes.
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Ma Bourgogne
With its terrace under the arcades of the place des Vosges looking onto what is arguably the most beautiful square in Paris, this is a wonderful place to have lunch or just a drink. The plats du jour are good value at €14 to €25 when you consider the location. Specialities include andouillette (sausage made of pork/veal tripe) and charcuterie from the Auvergne region.
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Restaurant du Théâtre
This civilised bistro and wine bar facing the Jardin du Palais Royal is next door to the little-known Théâtre du Palais Royal. It’s a convenient spot if visiting the passages couverts around Palais Royal or even the Louvre and is best entered via 67 Galerie de Montpensier. The plat du jour is €17.
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Savannah Café
The food at this hip little bistro is as eclectic as its retro, carnival-like decorations and choice of world music. Tabouli mixes with tortellini as does hummus with mozzarella and fromage blanc (cream cheese) with baklava. Can’t decide? Kick off with the mixed plate of starters that flit from Italy to Lebanon to India.
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Le Trumilou
This no-frills bistro is a Parisian institution in situ for over a century. If you’re looking for an authentic menu from the early 20th century and prices (well, almost) to match, you won’t do better than this. Confit aux pruneaux (duck with prunes)and ris de veau grand-mère (veal sweetbreads) are specialities.
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Le Troisième Bureau
An interesting clientele frequents this pub-cum-bistro, where you can read, listen to music, do a little work on the laptop, tickle the ivories on the funky old piano and enjoy Sunday brunch (€15.50) from noon to 4pm. There are one-plate specials for between €9.80 and €13.50.
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Le Hangar
Unusual for big mouths, balk at revealing details of this perfect little restaurant. It serves all the bistro favourites – rillettes, foie gras, steak tartare – in relaxing, very quiet surrounds. The terrace is a delight in fine weather and the service both professional and personal.
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Le Roi du Pot au Feu
The typical Parisian bistro atmosphere adds to the charm of the ‘King of Hotpots’, but what you really come here for is its pot au feu, a stockpot of beef, root vegetables and herbs stewed together, with the stock served as starter and the meat and veg as main course. No bookings.
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Le Pré Verre
Noisy, busy and buzzing, this jovial bistro plunges diners into the heart of a Parisian’s Paris. At lunchtime join the flock and go for the fabulous-value formule dejeuner (€13). The wine list features France’s small independent vignerons (wine producers).
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L'Ardoise
This is a lovely little bistro with no menu as such (ardoise means ‘blackboard’, which is all there is), but who cares? The food prepared dextrously by chef Pierre Jay (ex-Tour d’Argent) is superb.
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Le Baratin
Baratin(chatter) rhymes with bar à vin (wine bar) in French and this animated place, just a step away from the lively Belleville quarter, does both awfully well.
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Le Coude Fou
Long-term fixture in the heart of the Marais serves cuisine traditionelle in a convivial bistro decorated with murals celebrating wine and the good life.
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Le Petit Marché
This great little bistro just up from place des Vosges fills up at lunch and dinner with a mixed crowd who come to enjoy its hearty cooking and friendly service.
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Chez Nénesse
The atmosphere here is charmingly ‘old Parisian’ and unpretentious. Dishes are prepared with fresh, high-quality ingredients and pose good value for money.
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Le Comptoir du Relais
Simply known as Le Comptoir (The Counter), this gourmet bistro has provoked a real stir ever since it opened. The culinary handiwork of top chef Yves Camdeborde, it serves seasonal bistro dishes with a creative twist – asparagus and foie gras salad anyone? Bagging a table without an advance reservation at lunchtime is just about doable providing you arrive sharp at 12.30pm, but forget more gastronomic evening dining without a reservation (weeks in advance for weekends).
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Café Burq
This convivial, retro bistro is always buzzing; book ahead – especially at weekends. Don’t come for the décor or the space, though; both are nonexistent.
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