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Le Vieux Belleville
Perched at the top of the Parc de Belleville, this old-fashioned bistro is an atmospheric and not even slightly touristy venue for twice-weekly chansons performances featuring accordions and an organ grinder. It's a lively favourite with locals, though, so booking ahead is advised. 'The old Belleville' also serves classic French menus (it is open for lunch Monday to Saturday and dinner Tuesday to Saturday).
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Le Vieux Chêne
Situated on ancient rue Mouffetard, this is thought to be Paris' oldest bar. It housed Revolutionary meetings in 1848 and was a dancing club during the belle époque, and today has a buzzing student crowd and live music on weekends. Like many of the surrounding bars, happy hour kicks off from once lectures let out.
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Les Deux Moulins
The 'Two Windmills', where Amélie was set, remains, bless it, a down-to-earth local for lingering over the newspapers, chatting with regulars, or just sitting by the windows and watching Montmartre go by. Wi-fi's free, though annoyingly you need to log on again every half hour.
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Moulin Rouge
The most famous cabaret of all, immortalised in Toulouse-Lautrec's posters and later on screen by Baz Luhrmann, Moulin Rouge twinkles beneath a 1925 replica of its original red windmill. It's rife with bus tour crowds, but from the first bars of opening music to the last high kick, it's a whirl of fantastical costumes, sets and choreography; the experience is best soaked up with champagne.
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New Morning
New Morning is a well-regarded auditorium that hosts jazz concerts as well as blues, rock, funk, salsa, Afro-Cuban and Brazilian music three to seven nights a week, with the second set ending almost at closing. Tickets are available at the box office, but can also be bought at the door.
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Open Café
This see-and-be-seen Marais institution is raining men, and is a primer for many a night out in gay Paree, but the vibe is social rather than cruisey.
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Opéra Bastille
If you don't score tickets to a performance at Paris' 1989-built monolith, which was instigated by Mitterrand as the city's second opera house, you can go behind the scenes on a guided tour.
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Red Light
Previously and perhaps more fittingly named L'Enfer (Hell) this seedy underground (literally) venue beneath Tour Montparnasse refuses to perish. Huge and laser lit, it's a popular choice for student drink-fest evenings during the week, while weekends see a young, exuberant gay crowd pack out its podiums.
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Student Bar & Cie
This funky little space, with burgundy banquettes, a small timber bar glowing with tea-light candles, and silver fans keeping things cool, is an especially good bet if you're on your own, thanks to its welcoming staff and regulars. There's more seating downstairs in the cosy basement.
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Taverne Henri IV
Popular with Paris' legal eagles thanks to the Palais de Justice nearby, this wine bar is one of the few options for a drink on the Île de Cité. It regularly hosts functions, so hours can fluctuate; call ahead or drop by and try your luck.
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