Café entertainment in Paris
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A
Le Verre À Pied
This café-tabac is a pearl of a place where little has changed since 1870. Its nicotine-hued mirrored wall, moulded cornices and original bar make it part of a dying breed, but the place oozes the charm, glamour and romance of an old Paris everyone loves. Stall holders from the rue Mouffetard market yo-yo in and out, contemporary photography and art adorns one wall. Lunch is a busy, lively affair, and live music quickens the pulse a couple of evenings a week.
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B
Cave la Bourgogne
A prime spot for lapping up rue Mouffetard’s contagious ‘saunter-all-day’ spirit, this neighbourhood hang-out sits on square St-Médard, one of the Latin Quarter’s loveliest squares: think flower-bedecked fountain, centuries-old church and tastebud-titillating market stalls spilling across one side. Inside, old ladies and their pet dogs meet for coffee around dark wood tables alongside a local wine-sipping set. In summer everything spills outside.
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C
Café Delmas
Enviably situated on tree-studded place de la Contrescarpe, the Delmas is a hot spot for chilling over un café/ cappuccino or all-day breakfast (€12). Sit comfortably beneath overhead heaters outside to soak up the street atmosphere or snuggle up between books in the library-style interior – awash with students from the nearby universities. Should you need the loo, Jacqueline is for women, Jacques for men.
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D
Le Pure Café
This old café moonlights as a restaurant, but it's lovely as it was intended to be, especially over a grand crème (large white coffee)and the papers on Sunday morning. It has appeared as Central Casting’s ‘typical French café’ in a number of films, including the 2004 British film Before Sunset. From the metro walk west along rue de Charonne, left onto rue Faidherbe then immediately left again onto rue Jean Macé.
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E
Félicie
Be it breakfast, lunch, pre- or post-dinner drinks, this unpretentious neighbourhood brasserie-cum-bar with big heated pavement terrace is a quintessentially Parisian spot to Zen any time of day. Chuck in Sunday brunch, ‘express’ lunch deals (€12.50 and €18) built around bistro classics like steak tartare and a laid-back late-night vibe, and there’s no saying you won’t be back time and time again.
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F
Le Progrès
A real live café du quartier perched in the heart of Abbesses, the ‘Progress’ occupies a corner site with huge windows and simple seating and attracts a relaxed mix of local artists, shop staff, writers and hangers-on. It’s great for convivial evenings, with DJs and bands some nights, but it’s also a good place to come for inexpensive meals and daytime coffees.
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G
Café le Basile
Don’t bother looking for a name above this hip student café, framed by expensive designer fashion shops – there isn’t one. Well-worn Formica tables, petrol-blue banquettes and a fine collection of 1950s lights and lampshades keep the sleek crowd out, the retro crowd in. A fabulous find for a hot chocolate or beer, light lunch or flop between lectures.
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H
Au Chat Noir
Slightly removed from the overexcitement of Oberkampf and with a slightly older crowd, this attractive corner café with high ceilings and a long, wooden bar is a happening but relaxed drinking space at night. It’s also a great café in which to hang out or read emails during the day. Downstairs is more animated, with occasional live concerts.
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I
Pause Café
Principally a restaurant with plats du jour for €11 to €14, this attractive café with lots of windows remains a popular destination for drinks, meals, coffee or brunch. Well situated a little away from the fray of Bastille, its generous terrace (covered and heated in winter) fills up with fashionable locals and the almost famous.
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J
Chào Bà Café
This comfortable café-restaurant on two levels is decorated in colonial Oriental style with huge plants, ceiling fans and bamboo chairs. It serves great cocktails (from €9.50) in goldfish-bowl-sized glasses, and somewhat bland Franco-Vietnamese fusion food. And by the way: chào bà means bonjour madame in Vietnamese.
reviewed
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K
Café Thoumieux
The trendy tapas annexe of Brasserie Thoumieux is always full of well-heeled young people who seem to enjoy the Iberian ambience. Tapas and San Miguel beer set the scene, but perfumed vodka is the house speciality, with no fewer than 40 different types (including chocolate, fig, watermelon and mint tea) to pick from.
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L
Le Café des Initiés
This modern-design café almost on rue du Louvre is popular with journalists and communications types. While not a late-night venue, it has a pleasant terrace and is great for evening drinks, coffees and even meals (a two-course menu is just €14.50). Slick service, nondeafening music and good food attract a trendy 30-something mix.
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M
L'Autre Café
A young mixed crowd of locals, artists and party-goers remains faithful to this quality café with its long bar, spacious seating areas, relaxed environment, reasonable prices and exhibition openings. It’s a great place to do a little work, and there is a small lounge upstairs. Sunday brunch (€18) is from noon to 5pm.
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Café de Flore
The red upholstered benches, mirrors and marble walls at this art deco landmark haven’t changed much since the days when Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir, Albert Camus and Pablo Picasso wagged their chins here. Its busy terrace draws in lunching ladies, posh business-folk and foreigners in search of the past.
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O
Baz’art Café
This café, whose name sounds suspiciously like ‘bizarre’ in English, is just southwest of Bastille but could be a million miles away from the hoopla usually associated with that quartier (neighbourhood). It’s a grown-up, stylish place with friendly service and good-value food.
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P
Le Select
Along with La Coupole and Le Dôme, this café is a Montparnasse institution that has changed little since 1923. Students congregate in the early evening; regulars take over as the night wears on. Tartines made with Poilâne bread are a speciality.
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Q
O P'tit Douai
This colourful neighbourhood café is just down the street from the Moulin Rouge, but it might as well be light years away. Trade in the mayhem for some tranquillity over coffee, wines by the glass (from €2.50) or some traditional Parisian fare at mealtimes.
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R
Au Général la Fayette
With its all-day menu, archetypal belle époque décor and special beers on offer, this old-style brasserie is an excellent stop for an afternoon coffee, evening drink or typical French meal outside normal restaurant hours.
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Café des Phares
The ‘Beacons Café’ is best known as the city’s original philocafé (philosophers’ café). If you feel like debating such topics as ‘What is a fact?’ and ‘Can people communicate?’, head for this place at 11am on Sunday; the debate lasts for two hours. It may sound posy but this is Paris.
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