Restaurants in Northern France
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A
À l'Huîtrière
In 1928 the great-grandfather of the present owners turned to the nascent art deco movement – first exhibited (and named) in Paris just three years earlier – to find suitably elegant decoration for his fish shop on 'Street of the Hunchback Cats'. The sea-themed mosaics and stained glass are worth a look-in even if you're not in the mood to dine on super-fresh seafood – accompanied, perhaps, by a wine or two from the 40,000-bottle cellar. Book ahead for Friday dinner and Saturday.
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Meert
Gaufres (waffles) made in a hinged iron griddle with Madagascar vanilla are the speciality at this luxury tearoom-cum-pastry-and-sweets-shop, which has served kings, viceroys and generals (including Charles de Gaulle, a life-long fan) since 1761. Next door, Meert’s chocolate shop (per kg €89) has a wrought-iron balcony, coffered ceiling and painted wood panels that will transport you back to 1839.
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Tous Les Jours Dimanche
Having tea or a light lunch here, surrounded by a motley assemblage of antique furniture and well-chosen objets d'art, is like hanging out in an arty friend's living room. Specialities include salads, sandwiches (€10) and quiche-like tartes (€10). On Sunday from October to April, you can have a brunch anglais (English brunch; €21) starting at 11.30am.
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Le Barbue d'Anvers
This well-regarded regional restaurant occupies an 18th-century building at the end of a cobblestone courtyard, its three levels decorated with antique Dutch and Flemish furnishings. It's named after a race of Belgian chickens so naturally specialities include waterzoï de volaille (poultry and vegetables baked in a cream sauce).
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E
Le Palais
Serves solid cuisine of French and Flemish inspiration at eminently fair prices. Regional specialities include carbonnade and potjevlesch (a gelled pâté made with pork, rabbit, fowl and veal). Creatively lit with octopus-like light fixtures - but the brick walls never let you forget you're in Vieux Lille.
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Au Cadre Vert
A family-run French restaurant known for its generous portions and reasonable prices. Specialities include magret de canard (duck breast fillet) in raspberry sauce and côte de bœuf sauce peurotte (beef ribs in mushroom sauce).
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L'Envie
You'll eat well, somewhere out near the cutting edge of French culinary inventiveness, at this informal but very cool establishment. The wine list, which features a white from Burgundy and a red from Alsace, reflects the chef's adventurous spirit.
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H
Chez la Vieille
One of the best places in Lille to tuck into Flemish specialities. Old-time prints, antiques and fresh hops hanging from the rafters create the ambience of a Flemish village circa 1900. The vibe is informal but it's a good idea to call ahead.
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La Source
This Lille institution, founded way back in 1979, serves delicious vegetarian, fowl and fish plats du jour, each accompanied by five hot veggie side dishes. The light, airy ambience and the diners exude health, well-being and cheer.
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Chocolaterie Vandyck
Hot chocolate and chocolate pralines, all 100% natural and all made right on the premises, are the highlights at this delightful salon de dégustation de chocolat (tea room specialising in classic chocolates).
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La Voûte
The specialities of Flanders, including carbonnade and lapin à la flamande (rabbit in a white wine and prune sauce, are served in this combination bistro, restaurant and estaminet (tavern).
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Tonnerre de Brest
At this informal, rustic eatery, run by two sisters, you can wash down with cidre (cider) 19 kinds of savoury galettes, 30 sorts of sweet crêpes or a large salad.
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Aux Mouettes
Fisherfolk sell their daily catch across the street at the quay - easy to see how this unassuming place manages to serve only the very freshest fish and seafood.
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La Demi-Lune
Five blocks east of the tourist office, Dunkirk’s first organic restaurant, La Demi-Lune, serves light, healthy lunches at reasonable prices.
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Histoire Ancienne
A 1930s Paris-style bistro specialising in French and regional meat, fish and vegetarian mains, some grilled over an open wood fire.
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Boulangerie Notre Dame de la Treille
The old-time flûtes and pain à l'ancienne at this boulangerie are especially scrumptious.
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Marché sur l'eau
Fruit and vegetables grown in the Hortillonnages are sold at this one-time floating market, now held on dry land (except once a year).
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Le Tigzirt
The welcome is as warm as the Algerian Berber-style couscous and tajines (stews), which are steamed, boiled, grilled and baked to perfection.
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Le T'chiot Zinc
Inviting, bistro-style decor reminiscent of the belle époque provides a fine backdrop for the tasty French and Picard cuisine, including fish dishes and caqhuse (pork in a cream, wine vinegar and onion sauce). The proper, Picard pronunciation of the name is 'shtyoh-zang'.
reviewed
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S
Le Bouchon
The decor is a bit sparse but the traditional French cuisine is good value. The mouth-watering dessert list encompasses the French classics, including Forêt Noire (Black Forest chocolate cake; €9).
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rue Solférino
There are heaps of cheap eats along this lively, student-dominated street, about 600m west of the Palais des Beaux-Arts.
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rue Royale
This street, just northwest of L’Illustration Café, is the place to come for ethnic cuisine (couscous, Japanese etc).
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rue de la Monnaie
This street and its side streets are a good place to look for quirky, moderately priced restaurants.
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rue de Gand
This street is home to a dozen small, moderately-priced French and Flemish restaurants.
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