Things to do in Rouen
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Cathédrale Notre Dame
On a site occupied by churches since the 4th century, Rouen's magnificent cathedral was painted repeatedly by Claude Monet, who was fascinated by the subtle changes of light and colour on the cathedral's towering French Gothic facade. Built between 1201 and 1514, the building was damaged by time, WWII and a 1999 storm, and is still undergoing renovation. Monet would hardly recognise its recently cleaned facade, now almost white.
The Romanesque crypt was part of a cathedral completed in 1062 and destroyed by a conflagration that flattened much of the city at Easter in the year 1200. The free tours to the crypt, ambulatory and Chapel of the Virgin are in French, but some gu…
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Palais de Justice
The ornately Gothic Law Courts, little more than a shell at the end of WWII, have been restored to their early-16th-century Gothic glory, though the 19th-century western facade is still pockmarked by bullet holes. The courtyard, with its impossibly delicate spires, gargoyles and statuary, is accessible via a metal detector from rue aux Juifs; this is also the entrance to use if you'd like to sit in on a trial.
Under the staircase at the courtyard's eastern end is the Monument Juif (Jewish Monument), the oldest Jewish communal structure in France and the only reminder of Rouen's medieval Jewish community, expelled by Philippe le Bel in 1306.
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Place du Vieux Marché
Rue du Gros Horloge runs from the cathedral west to this square, where 19-year-old Joan of Arc was executed for heresy in 1431. Dedicated in 1979, the thrillingly bizarre Église Jeanne d'Arc,with its fish-scale exterior, marks the spot where Joan was burned at the stake. The church's soaring modernist interior, lit by some marvellous 16th-century stained glass, is well worth a look.
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Aître St-Maclou
For a macabre thrill, check out the courtyard of this curious ensemble of half-timbered buildings built between 1526 and 1533. Decorated with lurid woodcarvings of skulls, crossbones, gravediggers' tools and hourglasses, it was used as a burial ground for plague victims as recently as 1781. Aître St-Maclou now houses the regional École des Beaux-Arts (School of Fine Arts).
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Musée des Beaux-Arts
This impressive museum is housed in a grand structure erected in 1870 and features a captivating collection of 15th- to 20th-century paintings. Artists include Caravaggio, Rubens, Modigliani, Pissarro, Renoir, Sisley (lots) and (of course) several works by Monet, including a study of Rouen's cathedral (in room 2.33). Some rooms have laminated art history sheets in English.
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Brasserie Paul
The classic Rouennaise brasserie, favoured by artists and philosophers for over a century and still going strong. All the decorative trappings are there - starchy service, plush red seats and spinning overhead fans (not to mention the self-playing pianola) - and the menu is crammed with regional dishes, including Simone de Beauvoir's favourite smoked duck salad.
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Pascaline
A top spot for a great-value formule midi (lunchtime fixed-price menu), this bustling bistro serves up traditional French cuisine in typically Parisian surroundings – think net curtains, white tablecloths and chuffing coffee machines. There's live piano nightly, and jazz nights are held on Thursdays.
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Musée Le Secq des Tournelles
Inside a desanctified Flamboyant Gothic church built in the early 1500s, this excellent museum is devoted to the blacksmith's craft. Displays include some 5000 wrought-iron items made between the 3rd and 19th centuries, including hanging shop signs, lots of locks and keys, and an elaborate choir grille from 1202.
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Gros Horloge
Rue du Gros Horloge is spanned by this impressive structure, a Gothic belfry with one-handed medieval clocks on each side. On the west side, check out the gilded Latin inscription dedicated to Ludovico XV (Louis XV) in 1732 – see if you can count how many times the suffix -issimo appears.
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rue du Gros Horloge
Rouen's main street, rue du Gros Horloge runs from the Cathédrale Notre Dame to place du Vieux Marché, where 19-year-old Joan of Arc was executed for heresy in 1431. Rue du Gros Horloge is spanned by an early-16th-century gatehouse and the Gros Horloge, a large one-handed medieval clock.
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Gill
The place to go in Rouen for gastronomique French cuisine of the highest order, served in an ultrachic, ultramodern dining room. Specialities including fresh Breton lobster, scallops with truffles, Rouen-style pigeon and, for dessert, millefeuille à la vanille.
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Au Temps des Cerises
There's no better place to check out Normandy's famous cheeses than this ever-popular restaurant (look out for the fox and raven murals outside). Choose your cheesy poison - the menu is packed with tartiflette, fondue and endless varieties of croûtes - and tuck in.
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Église Jeanne d’Arc
Dedicated in 1979, the thrillingly bizarre Église Jeanne d’Arc, with its fish-scale exterior, marks the spot where Joan was burned at the stake. The church’s soaring modernist interior, lit by some marvellous 16th-century stained glass, is well worth a look.
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Le P'tit Bec
The down-to-earth menu is stuffed with pasta, salads, œufs cocottes (eggs with grated cheese baked in cream), several vegetarian options and homemade desserts. There's also a terrace for the summer months on one of Rouen's most picturesque side streets.
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Les Nymphéas
Its formal table settings arrayed under 16th-century beams, this fine restaurant serves cuisine based on fresh local ingredients (including cider and calvados), giving a rich Norman twist to dishes such as farm-raised wild duck, scallops and lobster.
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Musée de la Céramique
Housed in a 17th-century building with a fine courtyard, the Ceramics Museum was closed for renovations during our last visit, but will be open by the time you read this. It's known for its 16th- to 19th-century faience (decorated earthenware) and porcelain.
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Église St-Maclou
This Flamboyant Gothic church was built between 1437 and 1521 but much of the decoration dates from the Renaissance. It is partly surrounded by half-timbered houses inclined at curious angles. The entrance is half a block east of 56 rue de la République.
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Les Maraîchers
All gleaming mirrors, polished wood and colourful floor tiles, this bistro – established in 1912 and classified a café historique d'Europe – has a genuine zinc bar and a warm and very French ambience. Specialities include Normandy-raised beef.
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La Boîte à Bières
Affectionately known as BAB, this lively, half-timbered corner bar is a good place to down a few local bières artisanales (microbrews) in the company of a loyal student following. Sometimes has karaoke, disco and concert nights.
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Thé Majuscule
Downstairs it's a typically chaotic French secondhand bookshop; upstairs it's a classy tearoom with a warm-season terrace, homemade tartes (including one vegetarian pie), salads (in summer), plat du jour (€9.50), cakes and exotic teas (€3.30).
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Tour Jeanne d'Arc
The Tour Jeanne d'Arc is the sole survivor of eight towers that once ringed a huge 13th-century chateau built by Philippe Auge. Joan of Arc was imprisoned here before her execution.
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Le Bateau Ivre
A longstanding live venue with a varied program of concerts (French chansons, blues, rock reggae etc) except on Thursday, when anyone can join in the jam session.
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Église St-Ouen
The Église St-Ouen, a 14th-century abbey, is a marvellous example of Rayonnant Gothic style. The entrance is through a lovely garden along rue des Faulx.
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Le Saxo
This place swings to the rhythm of jazz and blues - it's a must on the nightcrawler's itinerary, especially on weekends when there are often live concerts.
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Abbatiale St-Ouen
This 14th-century abbey is a marvellous example of the Rayonnant Gothic style. The entrance is through a lovely garden along rue des Faulx.
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