-
La Rotonde
At this delightful carousel-designed bistro, dine on delicate fare at fairy floss-coloured circular booths as painted horses on golden poles mechanically glide up and down around you.
-
La Table Alziari
It takes some serious wending through Vieux Nice's labyrinth of twisting, turning laneways to happen upon the pretty-as-a-picture La Table Alziari, but once you do, it appears like something from an Impressionist painting. Framed by a tiny front terrace, this traditional Provençal place opens to lemon-painted dining rooms. There's no menu, just a blackboard chalking with a selection of seasonal dishes (and wine), such as wonderful vegie terrines.
-
La Taca d'Oli
No wonder the bagna cauda (raw mixed veg dipped into a pot of warm tangy anchovy paste known as anchoïade )at this tiny old-town bistro dating to 1947 is so legendary: the same chef has been making it here for the past 17 years! A shared portion of bagna pan (raw red mullet and sea bream fillets dipped in hot fish soup) ordered alongside it makes a perfect supper for two.
-
Le 3e
If the sheer length of dish names defeats you (or you simply want to lunch), opt for simpler Le 3e. Inside Palais de la Méditerranée, it's the lounge bar across from the terrace pool. Enjoy meats barbecued à la plancha (on the griddle).
-
Le Merenda
Simple solid Niçois cuisine by former Michelin-starred chef Dominique Le Stanc draws the tourist crowds to this pocket-sized bistro with stool seating (rub backs with the person sitting behind on the table), a tiny open kitchen and the day's menu chalked on the board. Quintessential dishes to try include tripes à la Niçoise (tripe) with panisse (potato-sized chunks of fried chickpea) and stockfish; ask to taste a smidgen of the latter before ordering if you're unsure.
-
Le Nautique
Decked out in gleaming polished timber like a grand old yacht sailing its way around the Med, this vast place appears to merge with the boat-filled port directly in front. Over four separate dining rooms, the order of the day is, appropriately enough, seafood, with a selection of salads (such as octopus salad with local olive oil), pastas, and premium plats like grilled giant tiger prawns. Vegetable and meat dishes also feature.
-
Le Padouk
A big address houses culinary giant, chef Bruno Sohn, who stuns palates with a cuisine oozing originality at Le Padouk, on the third floor of Palais de la Méditerranée. Be it octopus and red mullet prepared like stockfish or a sweet feast of almond jelly, roasted apricots, exotic sorbet and basil syrup, Sohn insists on throwing an imaginative twist into his cooking pot.
-
Le Pain Quotidien
Startlingly good organic (not to mention six other) breakfasts and lavishly topped lunchtime tartines (toasted bread) are highlights at this rustic café overlooking the flower market.
-
Le Speakeasy
Le Speakeasy - This teeny weeny slice of veggie heaven run by Jane, a former English teacher and an American (hence the name of the place), cooks up unusual organic meals and juices. Takeaways available.
-
Advertisement
-
Les Épicureans
If you don't have time to visit the glamorous, pint-sized principality of Monaco, 18km east of Nice, this wood-and-white-tableclothed place overlooking a pretty fountained square brings Monégasque cuisine to you. What's more, it's so expertly prepared that Monaco's monarch, Prince Albert, comes to dine here. House specialties include barbajuans (tiny fried ravioli with gaspacho sauce) and cocottes (cast-iron casserole dishes).
-
Les Viviers
A magnificent choice of oysters, urchins and other shellfish - not to mention a Breton lobster grilled alive - are consumed to the sweet tinkle of a piano at this seafood temple. Try the Viviers 1900s-styled bistro next door for something less rarefied.
-
Lou Pilha Leva
Perfect for filling a hungry moment coming from the beach or any time of day are a bunch of battered local specialities, especially common in Vieux Nice where Lou Pilha Leva dole them out to a merrily munching, family-friendly, fun-loving crowd packed around shared bench seating on the street. Order drinks separately from a passing drinks waiter.
-
Nissa Socca
Locals love this inexpensive socca joint in Nice's ambient old town, making it a prime bet for visitors to taste-test authentic Niçois cuisine. Socca is a local treat, a sort of savoury chickpea pancake.
-
Pasta Basta
Nice's proximity to the border means you can count on Italian restaurants here to be bellissimo . This inexpensive old-town place dishes up authentic pasta and primo pizzas on stylish plates. There's a canopied front terrace, intimate main room, and upstairs dining room that attracts lively groups.
-
Restaurant du Gésu
Locals rave about this no-frills eating house, run with dynamism and a huge dose of wit by the most gravelly-voiced patron on the Riviera. The menu is simple - Niçois beignets (fritters) followed by pizza, escalope or homemade pasta with a choice of sauce, house speciality sauce daube (a meaty broth sauce) included. Find Gésu tucked on an old-town square in the shade of a church.
-
Scotch Tea House
On a swank shopping street near the promenade des Anglais, the Scotch Tea House ia a classic, timber-lined place has elegant homemade cake- and tarte -type treats.
-
Terres de Truffes
Bruno Clément is the name behind Terres de Truffes, an exclusive deli-bistro where the much-acclaimed truffle chef prepares the region's famous fungi in every imaginable form. Truffles star in every dish, most of which you simply won't find anywhere else. Light lunch eaters can always opt for a selection of truffle tapas followed by apple pie with truffle caramel!
-
Texas City
You'll find excellent enchiladas and gourmet guacamole at this adobe-walled place adorned with authentic Americana including quirky curios like an 1844 framed certificate for the Ladies Fort Hill Total Abstinence Society (from alcohol that is; but don't let it put you off your margarita). It mainly caters to a local clientele, hence portions aren't Texan-sized.
-
Thérèsa
Essential tasting for every visiting palate is socca , a savoury, griddle-fried pancake made from chickpea flour and olive oil. The socca cooked up by the flamboyant Thérèsa (; Cours Saleya market ; - Tue-Sun) at her cours Saleya market stall with plastic tables beneath the awning is legendary. Order a glass of rosé with it.
-
Advertisement
-
Voyageur Nissart
No frills, just good solid portions of traditional Niçois fare, served speedily and with a smile ensure this small three generation-run family bistro near the train station makes it in practically every travel guide. Going strong since 1908, its clientele nonetheless remain fairly local.
-
Zucca Magica
Zucca Magica (The Magic Pumpkin) You'll either love it or you'll hate it…the idea of someone else deciding what you eat. Bursting with vegetarian surprises and guaranteed to thrill, top Italian chef Marco Folicardi moved from Rome to Nice to open this much-vaunted 'veg, egg and cheese restaurant' - the only one of its kind on the Riviera - where one fixed menu confiance is served, dictated simply by the market and la fantasie du chef.
