Things to do in Limoges
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Musée de la Résistance et de la Déportation
In the courtyard in front of the Musée Municipal de l'Évêché, an excavation project has revealed the archaeological remains of buildings that once occupied the site, including some Gallo-Roman ruins. Eventually it's hoped that the remains will be open to the public, but while the work's going on, the Musée de la Résistance et de la Déportation has been moved to the Chapelle de la Règle, behind the botanical gardens.
It's worth taking a stroll over - the museum contains some moving accounts of the exploits of the Resistance and the suffering of deportees during the war, supported by some fascinating wartime memorabilia, including photos, letters, diaries and milita…
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Galerie du Canal
In Limoges émail (eh-my) has nothing to do with the internet, it means 'enamel', which has been produced here since the 12th century. The Musée Municipal de l'Évêché has a fine collection of émaux (plural of émail). Contemporary works can be admired at Galerie du Canal, a cooperative gallery run by six master enamellists.
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Cathédrale St-Étienne
The dark granite Cathédrale St-Étienne - one of the few Gothic churches south of the Loire - was begun in 1273 and completed in 1888. Facing place St-Étienne, the Flamboyant Gothic Portail St-Jean dates from the early 1500s. Inside, the richly decorated Renaissance rood screen is at the far end of the nave. The cathedral is also notable for its remarkably slender pillars.
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Musée des Beaux Arts
The massively refurbished Musée des Beaux Arts, housed in Limoges’ 18th-century bishops' palace, is due to have reopened by the time you read this. Its huge decorative-arts collection includes lesser-known paintings by Pierre Auguste Renoir (1841–1919), who was born in Limoges and worked in a porcelain factory as a boy, painting designs on fine china.
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Musée Municipal de l'Évêché
Housed in the former bishop's palace near the Cathédrale St-Étienne, the Musée Municipal de l'Évêché contains some fine collections of porcelain and enamelware, including some examples that date back to the 12th century. There are also a few lesser-known works by Pierre-Auguste Renoir, born in Limoges in 1841.
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Le 27
Blending contemporary decor with culinary invention at this cutting-edge restaurant, teardrop lanterns twinkle, neon lights buzz and waistcoated waiters bustle, while the menu takes in everything from gingered guinea-fowl to 'mysterious meringue'. One whole wall is taken up by the wine selection, so you won't be short of a tipple.
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Église St-Michel des Lions
The Église St-Michel des Lions, named for the two granite lions flanking the door, was built between the 14th and 16th centuries. It contains St-Martial’s relics (including his head) and some beautiful 15th-century stained glass, but its most notable feature is the huge copper ball perched atop its 65m-high spire.
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Musée National Adrien Dubouché
One of the main draws to the porcelain capital of France is obviously the chance to check out its famous enamelware. The Musée National Adrien Dubouché has one of France's two outstanding ceramics collections (the other is in Sèvres, southwest of Paris). An English-language brochure is available at the entrance.
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La Mot Bistrot
One of many cafés and brasseries dotted around place de la Motte, this little brasserie is usually packed at lunchtime with local shop workers, and it's an excellent place to soak up the market atmosphere. The menu is stuffed with brasserie standards - mainly salads, steaks and casseroles.
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Table de Jean
Just along the street from Les Petits Ventres, this is a cosy little restaurant that's all about hearty, down-to-earth country cooking - dishes such as braised beef and brandade de morue (cod brandade) are house specialities, and there's always a blackboard of daily specials.
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La Parenthèse
Forty teas and 14 coffees are served, in Limoges porcelain of course, at this charming spot, along with salads and traditional menus incorporating regional produce. Save space for the delicious homemade desserts like tangy tarte au citron meringuée (lemon meringue pie).
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Chez Alphonse
Hearty ingredients, rich sauces and hard-core French cooking define this unpretentious checked-tablecloth stalwart. The menu's stuffed with regional dishes (including horse steak and veal head), so if you want to try traditional Limousine cuisine, this is definitely the place.
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Bernardaud Porcelain Factory
The Bernardaud porcelain factory, can be visited daily June to September; tours (adult/under 12yr around €4/free) are from 09:15 to 11:00 and 13:00 to 16:30. The rest of the year tours take place Monday to Friday (and sometimes on Saturday), but you have to phone ahead.
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Crypt of St-Martial
All that remains of the great pilgrimage abbey of St-Martial, founded in AD 848, is an outline on place de la République. The Crypt of St-Martial, from the 9th-century, contains the tomb of Limoges' first bishop, who converted the population to Christianity.
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La Fourmi
The best place in town for musos, with breaking acts, alternative bands and theatrical spectacles in a twin-floored warehouse-style space. It's about 1km out of town, but worth the trek. Opening times vary so check the website for what's on when.
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Le Bistrot Gourmand
A lively student crowd fills the wrought-iron and marble tables of this busy bistro lined with vintage advertising posters and paintings. Give yourself plenty of time to deliberate over no fewer than 105 plats and 60 different desserts.
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Planetalis
If you're a vegetarian and feeling a little unloved about now, drop into Limoges' branch of this bio (organic) canteen-style French chain for vitamin-packed sandwiches, salads and hot dishes to eat in or take away.
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Rue de la Boucherie
Just off place St-Aurélien, the pedestrianised rue de la Boucherie - so named because of the butcher's shops that lined the street in the Middle Ages - contains many of the city's most attractive medieval half-timbered houses.
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Les Petits Ventres
One of several atmospheric restaurants in the old butchers' district, this wood-beamed dining room specialises in meat-heavy classics, from andouillettes (tripe sausages) to fricassée de rognons (fried kidneys).
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Zazoo
The owner of this quirky bar has a real thing about the colour purple - just check out the royal-purple cushions, mauve walls and lilac furniture. There are even a few plum-coloured cocktails to try if you're in the mood.
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Le Duc Étienne
This long-standing hang-out in the medieval quarter has a hip little bar supplying European beers and late-night coffee to a pre-club crowd. In summer things spill onto the terrace in front of Église St-Aurélien.
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Maison de la Boucherie
The Maison de la Boucherie houses a small history museum, and nearby is the tiny Chapelle Saint-Aurélien, dedicated to the patron saint of butchers.
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Jardin de l'Évêché
The Cathédrale St-Étienne is surrounded by the Limoges' botanical garden, where you'll find both medicinal and toxic herbs, and plenty of colourful blooms in summer.
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Paroles de Chef
Foodie haven Paroles de Chef has a gourmet épicerie (grocer) and runs cooking and wine-tasting courses (from €50), as well as its own restaurant.
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Halles Centrales
Halles Centrales covered market is full of local-produce stalls that run the gourmet gamut from local cheese to Limousin beef.
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