Sights in Limoges
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Musée de la Résistance et de la Déportation
In the courtyard in front of the Musée Municipal de l'Évêché, an excavation project has revealed the archaeological remains of buildings that once occupied the site, including some Gallo-Roman ruins. Eventually it's hoped that the remains will be open to the public, but while the work's going on, the Musée de la Résistance et de la Déportation has been moved to the Chapelle de la Règle, behind the botanical gardens.
It's worth taking a stroll over - the museum contains some moving accounts of the exploits of the Resistance and the suffering of deportees during the war, supported by some fascinating wartime memorabilia, including photos, letters, diaries and milita…
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Galerie du Canal
In Limoges émail (eh-my) has nothing to do with the internet, it means 'enamel', which has been produced here since the 12th century. The Musée Municipal de l'Évêché has a fine collection of émaux (plural of émail). Contemporary works can be admired at Galerie du Canal, a cooperative gallery run by six master enamellists.
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Cathédrale St-Étienne
The dark granite Cathédrale St-Étienne - one of the few Gothic churches south of the Loire - was begun in 1273 and completed in 1888. Facing place St-Étienne, the Flamboyant Gothic Portail St-Jean dates from the early 1500s. Inside, the richly decorated Renaissance rood screen is at the far end of the nave. The cathedral is also notable for its remarkably slender pillars.
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Musée des Beaux Arts
The massively refurbished Musée des Beaux Arts, housed in Limoges’ 18th-century bishops' palace, is due to have reopened by the time you read this. Its huge decorative-arts collection includes lesser-known paintings by Pierre Auguste Renoir (1841–1919), who was born in Limoges and worked in a porcelain factory as a boy, painting designs on fine china.
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Musée Municipal de l'Évêché
Housed in the former bishop's palace near the Cathédrale St-Étienne, the Musée Municipal de l'Évêché contains some fine collections of porcelain and enamelware, including some examples that date back to the 12th century. There are also a few lesser-known works by Pierre-Auguste Renoir, born in Limoges in 1841.
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Église St-Michel des Lions
The Église St-Michel des Lions, named for the two granite lions flanking the door, was built between the 14th and 16th centuries. It contains St-Martial’s relics (including his head) and some beautiful 15th-century stained glass, but its most notable feature is the huge copper ball perched atop its 65m-high spire.
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Musée National Adrien Dubouché
One of the main draws to the porcelain capital of France is obviously the chance to check out its famous enamelware. The Musée National Adrien Dubouché has one of France's two outstanding ceramics collections (the other is in Sèvres, southwest of Paris). An English-language brochure is available at the entrance.
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Bernardaud Porcelain Factory
The Bernardaud porcelain factory, can be visited daily June to September; tours (adult/under 12yr around €4/free) are from 09:15 to 11:00 and 13:00 to 16:30. The rest of the year tours take place Monday to Friday (and sometimes on Saturday), but you have to phone ahead.
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Crypt of St-Martial
All that remains of the great pilgrimage abbey of St-Martial, founded in AD 848, is an outline on place de la République. The Crypt of St-Martial, from the 9th-century, contains the tomb of Limoges' first bishop, who converted the population to Christianity.
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Rue de la Boucherie
Just off place St-Aurélien, the pedestrianised rue de la Boucherie - so named because of the butcher's shops that lined the street in the Middle Ages - contains many of the city's most attractive medieval half-timbered houses.
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Maison de la Boucherie
The Maison de la Boucherie houses a small history museum, and nearby is the tiny Chapelle Saint-Aurélien, dedicated to the patron saint of butchers.
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Jardin de l'Évêché
The Cathédrale St-Étienne is surrounded by the Limoges' botanical garden, where you'll find both medicinal and toxic herbs, and plenty of colourful blooms in summer.
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Aquarium du Limousin
At the Aquarium du Limousin, 2500 fish swim in the subterranean surroundings of Limoges’ old water reservoirs.
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Rue Haute Cité
Rue Haute Cité is lined with 16th- and 17th-century houses that have granite lower floors and half-timbered upper storeys.
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Église St-Pierre du Queyroix
The moody Église St-Pierre du Queyroix is notable for its characteristic Limousin belfry and stained glass.
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Cité des Métiers et des Arts
The Cité des Métiers et des Arts showcases work by top members of France’s craft guilds.
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