Things to do in Menton
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Fête du Citrons
Menton's fabulous two-week Fête du Citrons in February sees sculptures and decorative floats made from 115 metric tonnes of lemons (plus another five tonnes used to replace damaged fruit during the festival) weave processions along the seafront. Afterwards, the monumental lemon creations are dismantled and the fruit sold off at bargain prices in front of Palais de l'Europe. Each year the festival follows a different theme (Asterix, Alice in Wonderland, world carnivals).
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Cimetière du Vieux Château
What a shame the occupiers of prime real estate Cimetière du Vieux Château can't appreciate the immense views. Walk up montée du Souvenir to reach the main gates of the ornate 19th-century cemetery. Rugby inventor, Reverend William Webb Ellis (1805-72), is buried in the southwest corner. For more grave musing and marvellous vistas, continue north along steep chemin du Trabuquet to Cimetière du Trabuquet.
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A Braïjade Méridiounale
In a beautiful stone-walled dining room framed by heavy wooden beams, A Braïjade’s speciality is flambé skewers (think orange-marinated chicken and pesto-marinated prawns flambéed with Cognac). Not only does it taste good, it also looks fabulous (the kebab is flambéed at your table). The menu, which includes an aperitif, glass of local wine and digestive, is excellent value.
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Le Bouquet Garni
What you see is what you get at bouquet garni (think a bunch of Provençal herbs), a dead-simple bistro and bar à vins (wine bar) down an alley off the main pedestrian street. Locals form the bulk of the no-frills-seeking clientele and the brochette de volaille à l'estragon (poultry skewer with tarragon)hits the spot just fine.
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Clos du Peyronnet
British artist and garden landscaper Humphry Waterfield's green-fingered triumph, designed around his Italianate villa. These terraced gardens with cypress-tree tunnels, wisteria-shaded porticoes and an incredible series of water pools tumbling down to the Med are exceptional. Pots and pots of rare South African bulbs are a horticultural highlight.
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La Citronneraie
Cultivated by Mentonnais farmers several centuries ago, the Lemon Grove is just that - and more. The 350 citrus trees - think lemons, oranges, clementines, grapefruit - date to the 1950s, but the olive grove is at least 600 years old. Find it hugging Mas Flofaro on a hill above Menton. The tourist office arranges visits.
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La Mandibule
Tropical is the tone of this seafront restaurant which serves a mean cocktail alongside dozens of different rums and good old-fashioned cuisine from the French island of Reunion in the Indian Ocean. The cushioned wicker chairs beneath grass-shirted parasols on the prom have to be the comfiest prom chairs on the Riviera.
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Jardin Fontana Rosa
Created by Spanish novelist Vicente Blasco Ibañez in the 1920s and dedicated to writers, its vivid colours are meant to conjure up Spain, but with fanciful benches, pergolas, pools and ceramics the effect is more of a delightful fairyland. Advance reservations at the Service de Patrimoine.
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Jardins des Colombières
Olive trees, cypresses, lavender and other non-exotic plants feature here, inspired by different figures in Greek mythology. They were designed in 1919 by Ferdinand Bac (1859-1952), comic writer and the illegitimate son of Napoleon III. Advance reservations at the Service de Patrimoine.
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Jardin Botanique Exotique du Val Rahmeh
This wonderful garden was laid out in 1905 for Lord Radcliffe, then governor of Malta. The terraces overflow with exotic fruit-tree collections and subtropical plants, including the only European specimen of the Easter Island tree Sophora toromiro, now extinct on the island.
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Musée Jean Cocteau
Displays drawings, tapestries and mosaics by the multitalented poet, dramatist, artist and film director. In 2005, avid Cocteau collector Séverin Wunderman donated some 1500 Cocteau works to Menton, which will be displayed in a new museum scheduled to open in 2011.
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Jardin de la Villa Maria Serena
France's most temperate garden - known for its palm, olive and citrus trees - framing the white Villa Maria Serena, designed in a grandiose Second Empire style by Charles Garnier in 1866. Advance reservations at the Service de Patrimoine.
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Villa Isola Bella
Between 1920 and 1921 novelist Katherine Mansfield (1888-1923) stayed in the Villa Isola Bella, in the upmarket neighbourhood of Garavan, to attempt to ease her worsening tuberculosis. A plaque on the villa wall marks her stay.
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Le Lido
Sit on the buzzing terrace at this bustling no-frills seafood bar and feast on piles of langoustine (small saltwater lobster), oysters, sea urchins, crab and prawns. Finicky eaters can opt for a bog-standard lasagne.
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Jardin de la Serre de la Madone
It was American gardener Lawrence Johnston who planted dozens of rare plants here, picked up from his travels around the world. Abandoned for decades, it is slowly being restored. Take bus 7 to the 'Serre de la Madone' stop.
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La Terrasse
The Terrace, atop the casino, is Menton's only really serious drinking space with sea view. Ambiance lounge face à la mer (lounge bar atmosphere facing the sea) is its marketing line. Saturday is disco night.
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Jardin de l'Esquinade
Alongside the predictable mimosa, palm and lemon tree grows a rich bounty of vegetables and 120 different types of fruit tree, pomegranate, fig, pistachio and jujube included. Visits arranged directly through the owner.
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Basilique St-Michel Archange
From place du Cap a ramp leads to Southern France's grandest baroque church, the Italianate Basilique St-Michel Archange with creamy façade is flanked by a 35m-tall clock tower and 53m-tall steeple (1701-03).
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Musée des Beaux-Arts
Along the coast, Monaco's royal family summered at 18th-century Palais Carnolès, today the Musée des Beaux-Arts, surrounded by a fabulous lemon and orange grove studded with sculptures.
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Café des Arts
This unstuffy bistro with stylish traditional-with-a-twist interior and a laidback staff is a pleasing place to hang, surf, drink or dine on salad and pasta. Internet access is available.
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Chapelle des Pénitents Blancs
Up the steps from the Basilique St-Michel Archange is apricot-coloured Chapelle des Pénitents Blancs, built in 1689, which has an ornate trompe l'œil cupola inside.
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Salles des Mariages
In 1957 Jean Cocteau decorated Menton's Salles des Mariages, inside the town hall, with scenes of Orpheus' and Eurydice's wedding, galloping horses and starry local lovers.
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Sucre & Salés
Opposite the bus station, a contemporary spot to enjoy a coffee, cake or sandwich. The desserts are a work of art. The pâtisserie also serves breakfast (€5).
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Jardin d'Agrumes du Palais Carnolès
Menton's most famous citrus garden in the grounds of Palais Carnolès; 60 different varieties, 400 plants, sprinkled with contemporary sculptures .
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Rendez-vous aux Jardins
June is the month to visit Menton's gardens, some private gardens only opening their doors to visitors during the month-long Rendez-vous aux Jardins.
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