Things to do in Sartène (Sartè)
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Restaurant du Cours
You'll be hard-pressed to find a cheaper place for a sit-down meal in the centre of Sartène. Long on character and short on frills, this welcoming eatery set in a pokey vaulted room whips up pizzas, salads, meat dishes, lasagne and seven varieties of tagliatelle.
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Auberge U Sirenu
Punters are drawn to the family-run U Sirenu for its choice grilled meats - go for the sanglier et ses pâtes (wild boar and pasta), best accompanied by a bottle of Saparale. If you're counting the coins, opt for the pasta. The platter of charcuterie deserves a special mention: it's served on a wooden plate in the shape of the island. The dining room is certainly not sassy, but the terrace is much more enjoyable. Post-repas, you can bask lizardlike by the pool.
It's on the road to Bonifacio, about 10km from Sartène.
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Bergerie d'Acciola
A mandatory stop for cheese lovers (and we know what we're talking about), this produce shop set in a lovely granite house on the Bonifacio road doubles as a restaurant in summer. We'll never forget the terrine de fromage aux herbes (cheese terrine with aromatic herbs) and the crêpe à la farine de châtaigne (chestnut-flour pancake). Don't leave without buying a pungent casgiu casanu ('Fromage Fermier' in French; farm cheese) at the shop. Local wines are available too. It's 8km from Sartène.
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Auberge Santa Barbara
Send your tastebuds into a tailspin at this iconic restaurant serving authentic dishes with a creative twist. Award-winning chef Giséle Lovichi is a true alchemist, with such delectable concoctions as pigeon with myrtle sauce or veal stew with tagliatelle. Another draw is the bucolic setting, with elegant tables set around a well-manicured flower garden. A respectable wine list completes the perfect picture. It's about 1.3km from the centre on the road to Propriano; follow the signs.
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Le Jardin de l'Échauguette
No matter how hectic the day, as soon as you step inside this oasis of calm, stress evaporates as fast as light drizzle on asphalt in summer. Soak up the cool karma on the shady terrace while savouring well-executed classics, such as légumes farcis au brocciu (vegetables stuffed with sheep or goat cheese). A toothsome crème brûlée à la banane (banana-flavoured cream pie with a caramelised topping) will finish you off sweetly. Yum.
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A Cantinetta
In this minuscule cellar dating from the 19th century, you'll be welcomed by Marie-Dominique Bartoli. A fireplace, a couple of chunky wooden tables and old photographs on the walls - it's button-cute and high on atmosphere. Try the homemade chestnut-flour cakes or the platter of local cheeses with fig jam - sinfully good. And wash it all down with a glass of Fiumicicoli or a vin de myrte (myrtle wine).
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Hôtel de Ville
Next to Église Ste-Marie is the building that now houses the Hôtel de Ville , but which, in the 16th century, was the palace of the Genoese lieutenants. If you go through the gateway below this former palace, you will come out on the narrow streets of the Santa Anna district, which is the real jewel of the old town. Try to find the delightful impasse Carababa.
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Domaine de Croccano
Feel like seeing the area around Sartène from horseback instead of a car seat? Domaine de Croccano offers various horse-riding programs starting from €23 per hour. The Promenade-Découverte du Sartenais (three hours) is a lovely ramble amid the maquis, with special views over Sartène and the sea. It’s 3.5km out of town on the road to Granace.
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La Cave Sartenaise
It's exceptional selection of local wine makes La Cave Sartenaise an excellent stop for tipplers. If it's not crowded, the staff will be happy to give advice (in French) on the best Sartène wines to add to your cellar - we recommend a Saparale or a Fiumicicoli. Plenty of other Corsican goodies too (charcuterie, olive oil, cheese). It's right below the town hall.
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Église Ste-Marie
The bell tower of Église Ste-Marie rises above place Porta, which is still sometimes called place de la Libération. It boasts a superb altarpiece of polychrome marble (formerly in the Couvent St-François) and canvasses of the Stations of the Cross dating from 1843. The chains and cross used during the Catenacciu procession are also on display.
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U Maggiu
The wonderful stalls positioned in front of the cute granite façade are designed to tempt the devil in you. And they do. Especially if you add the rows of lovingly homemade jams displayed on the shelves. And honey. And charcuterie. And liqueurs. You can see the problem.
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Musée de la Préhistoire Corse
At the time of writing, the Musée de la Préhistoire Corse was undergoing a major extension and should reopen by 2008.
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