In this minuscule cellar dating from the 19th century, you'll be welcomed by Marie-Dominique Bartoli. A fireplace, a couple of chunky wooden tables and old photographs on the walls - it's button-cute and high on atmosphere. Try the homemade chestnut-flour cakes or the platter of local cheeses with fig jam - sinfully good. And wash it all down with a glass of Fiumicicoli or a vin de myrte (myrtle wine).