Things to do in Corte (Corti)
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A Scudella
This snug place on Corte's liveliest square owes its reputation to a carefully composed menu, based solidly on good-quality local produce. The decor in the dining room won't win any prizes, but the outdoor seating is pleasant enough.
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U Museu
Just below the entrance to the citadel, U Museu may look like your typical tourist trap but that's deceptive. Dine on its gazebo-covered terrace and choose from its wide range of Corsican specialities (the menu Corse is excellent value), including civet de sanglier aux myrtes sauvages (wild boar with myrtle) and tripettes à la Cortenaise (tripe with shallots in a red-wine sauce). It doesn't take reservations and closes on Sunday in low season.
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Museu di a Corsica
The Museu di a Corsica is a definite must-see for anyone interested in Corsica’s culture. It houses an outstanding exhibition on Corsican traditi ons, crafts, agriculture and anthropology. The building has two main galleries, with a third space allocated to temporary exhibitions. The museum is housed inside the former barracks and administrative buildings, which previously served as a WWII prison and a French Foreign Legion base.
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L'Oliveraie
Offering particularly friendly, attentive service, this restaurant, on the outskirts of town, serves creative family cooking (Madame up front, her son in the kitchen). Try for example squid stuffed with brocciu or the house creation, poulet aux cèpes et pommes (chicken with cepe mushrooms and apple). For dessert, the homemade crunchy chestnut tart contrasts wonderfully with the scoop of ice cream that's served with it.
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Pâtisserie Casanova
Gourmands, you'll be in seventh heaven! Back home, don't tell your dietetician that you couldn't resist the falculella (a Corsican dessert made with Brocciu and chestnut flour) at this longstanding pastry shop (it's been around since 1887). It also doubles as a coffee lounge – perfect for a gourmet coffee break after exploring central Corte.
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Le 24
After something upmarket? Then swing by this snazzy spot on the main drag. It boasts contemporary furnishings, a sexy atmosphere and an innovative menu that uses top-quality ingredients and changes with the season. The house desserts, chalked up on the blackboard, hit the right spot.
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Paglia Orba
It serves classic Corsican cuisine on its small, flower-decked terrace or in the cool of its airconditioned interior. While the food's well priced and uncomplicated, service would benefit from an extra smile or two; maybe we chose a bad day but staff were particularly glum.
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Café de l'Oriente
Opposite the university, this is the hub of student life during the academic year. A friendly spot year-round, it also acts as an outpost of the tourist office. Claude Cesari, the owner and a keen walker, is a mine of information about hiking opportunities in the area.
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Pub Le Lolita
You'll need to look out for this place, which is squeezed between a café and a sandwich joint on the square's northern side. There's a great selection of tapas, with quality wines to help them down, and you may be lucky enough to hit a night of live guitar music.
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Le Grand Café du Cours
On the ground floor of Hôtel du Nord, this stained-woodwork bar is Corte's oldest watering hole. It has a huge menu of drinks and snacks (internet too, if you fancy talking to the wider world).
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Altipiani
The Corte area is a mecca for the skittish. Canyoning, walking, rock climbing and mountain biking are all available in the nearby valleys. Contact outfitters Altipiani for details.
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Les Délices du Palais
This wonderful little pâtisserie bakes all sorts of tempting Corsican cakes and sweetmeats.
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Café du Cours
The unfussy Café du Cours is a great place to watch the world go by.
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Place Gaffory
At the foot of the citadel is place Gaffory, a lively square lined with restaurants and cafés and dominated by the Église de l'Annonciation, built in the mid-15th century. The walls of nearby houses are pockmarked with bullet holes, reputedly from Corsica's war of independence.
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Cours Paoli
A gentle wander along the main strip makes a pleasant prelude to an aperitif or a fine meal at one of the town's good restaurants. Start from place Paoli, Corte's focal point, which is dominated by a statue of Pascal Paoli, and stroll down the cours. It's a short walk, but allow plenty of time as there are lots of temptations along the way.
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Citadel
Of Corsica's six citadels, Corte's is the only one not on the coast. Jutting out above the Rivers Tavignanu and Restonica and the cobbled alleyways of the Haute Ville, the citadel's highest point is the château (known as the Nid d'Aigle – the Eagle's Nest), built in 1419.
The town's finest views are from the belvédère (viewing platform), reached via a steep staircase just outside the citadel's ramparts. Inside the walls are the former barracks and administrative buildings, which previously served as a WWII prison and a French Foreign Legion base. They now house the tourist office and the Museu di a Corsica, a definite must-see for anyone interested in Corsica's cultur…
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