Things to do in Calvi
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Oratoire de la Confrérie St-Antoine
Wander over to the place d'Armes and take a little street to the left to come to the Oratoire de la Confrérie St-Antoine , a charitable institution that has been active in Corsica since the 14th century. Behind the façade, which features a primitive slate lintel depicting the abbot St Antoine, are walls painted with 15th- and 16th-century frescoes (some, alas, severely timeworn).
On the north wall, an ivory Christ attributed to the Florentine sculptor Jacopo d'Antonio Tati, known as Le Sansevino.
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U Fornu
A surprisingly hip restaurant inside a restored stately house, this cool culinary outpost specialises in creative dishes that stray off the familiar Corsican path. Dishes are elegantly presented and filled with subtle flavours, and the menu Corse is excellent value. Eat in the sassy grey and red interior, or on the shady terrace. U Fornu is smack dab in the centre, but tucked away in a quiet cul-de-sac off the main thoroughfare.
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L'Abri Cotier
It's safer to reserve at this popular spot, just off the quayside; ask for one of the coveted tables beside the panoramic window, one floor up and lording it over the restaurant terraces below. The cuisine is imaginative (try, for example the sea bass accompanied by a basil flan) and the house desserts are a dream (save a corner for their chestnut ice cream with toffee sauce). It also does a vegetarian platter.
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Emile's
Yes, the set menu has the potential to flag a red alert to Amex, but it's the top-end darling of central Calvi. From the scenic 1st-floor terrace overlooking the quayside, it provides a memorable dining experience with unobtrusive service and fabulous food. If you've never had the chance to try grilled lobster, this is the place to do it, washed down with an ice-cold bottle of white.
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A Scimia Calvese
Beside the coast among the pines, A Scimia Calvese is an exhilarating, elevated, 700m-long climbing structure of bridges, ladders, beams, logs, pulleys and cables. It's run by the adventure sports company Altore. To the east of Calvi along the D151 between Montemaggiore and Cateri, Altore (it's the Corsican word for 'bearded vulture') also offers introductory flights and paragliding courses.
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A Cavallu Riding Centre
A Cavallu Riding Centre offers trail rides and lessons. Confirmed cowboys and cowgirls should consider its carnet, which entitles you to 10 hours (you can mix and pick) of guided rides, lessons or (for experienced riders) bareback riding through the surf. The centre is 500m down a dusty track, left of the N197 about 2km from the centre of town in the direction of the airport.
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U Minellu
This small family-run place with its vaulted ceiling and exterior tables beneath a lantern-lit wooden canopy is down a tight alley, just off rue Alsace Lorraine. It offers a good-value menu and a decent range of AOC Corsican wines. The menu Corse includes specialities such as brocciu cannelloni, Corsican cooked pork, and chestnut and apple cake.
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Le Tire-Bouchon
This buzzy option, as much wine bar as restaurant, is a gourmand's playground. Perch yourself on the balcony overlooking the crowds milling on rue Clémenceau, then order from the dishes of the day, posted on a chalkboard. Be good to yourself with veal stew, tagliatelle with Brocciu (fresh ewe's or goat's cheese), a cheese platter and luscious local tipples.
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A Scola
If you think life is unbearable without a homemade pastry (mmm, the melt-in-the-mouth chocolate cake), bookmark this little tea house opposite the cathedral door. It's also ideal for a refreshing cup or a quick and affordable sit-down lunch as you explore the citadel. The tables at the back have jaw-dropping views of the bay.
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U Callelu
The menu chases the changing seasons at this homespun eatery, run with passion and flair by a born-and-bred islander who tracks down the best local ingredients for his dishes: meat and veg from the market, wine direct from the vineyards, fish straight off the boats. It's on the quayside.
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Aux Bons Amis
With its nautically themed décor, Aux Bons Amis has a short, select à la carte choice and serves up the best of fresh fish and seafood. Two downsides; the flickering TV is an intrusion, even though the sound's turned off. And the house white is best avoided…
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Chez Tao
Within the citadel, Chez Tao is an institution. This super-smooth piano bar occupying a lavishly decorated vaulted room was founded in 1935 by Tao Kanbey de Kerekoff, a White Russian émigré, and it still attracts hedonistic hipsters seven decades later.
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from USD$1,360
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La Camargue
About 2.7km from town heading towards Île Rousse and just before the airport turnoff, La Camargue has a pool, piano-bar and open-air dance floor. In high summer there's a free shuttle bus from town.
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L'Havanita
This tiny shack of a place is down by the waterfront, squashed between a couple of restaurant terraces. It's a pleasant place to enjoy a drink and savour a background drift of Latino music.
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Best Of
If you're looking for a snack on the move, call by here to pick up some original sandwiches, paninis and wood-fired bread topped with local specialties.
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Caserne Sampiero
Inside the battlements is the well-proortioned Caserne Sampiero, which was the seat of power for the Genoese administration.
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La Voûte
This simple eatery set in a vaulted room cooks up robust Corsican classics such as lasagne with wild boar, pasta with Brocciu and veal stew.
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Le Jardin
This restaurant, which adjoins the Hôtel Le Magnolia, serves good, wholesome Corsican food with a nod towards haute cuisine.
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Les Beaux Voyages
Les Beaux Voyages organises a similar set of excursions with almost identical prices. Both companies offer reduced fares for children.
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Covered Market
Calvi's small market has plenty of pickings for self-caterers with its richly scented local sausages and tempting desserts.
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A Cantina
Treat yourself to a taste of the finest Calvi AOC wine at this supercool tapas and wine bar on the quayside.
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Club de Plongée Castille
Club de Plongée Castille gives you the opportuinity to explore the wreck of a WWII B17 bomber.
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Calvi Nautique Club
You can rent out kayaks and windsurfers from the Calvi Nautique Club.
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Black 'n' Blue
French and a few foreign-language books, guides, maps and a selection of Corsican CDs.
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