From the south side of the Vieux Port, steps lead up to the Jardin Romieu, a pleasant expanse of green that clings to the hillside for dear life. The even steeper steps and tunnel of the rampe St-Charles bring you through the defensive walls of the citadel to place du Donjon, at its heart.

Overlooking this cobbled square is the Palais des Gouverneurs (Governors' Palace), long closed to the public and earmarked - as it has been for many years - as the venue for the Musée d'Ethnographie Corse, so long in gestation. This citadel fortress, built in 1530, was the seat of the Genoese governor of Corsica for over two centuries. The Terra Nova quarter, many of its buildings recently refurbished in attractive ochres, reds, yellows and greens, grew up around its flanks.