Things to do in Ajaccio
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Palais Fesch – Musée des Beaux-Arts
One of the island's must-sees, this superb museum reopened in 2010 after extensive renovation works. Established by Napoléon's uncle, it has France's largest collection of Italian paintings outside the Louvre. Mostly the works of minor or anonymous 14th- to 19th-century artists, there are also canvases by Titian, Fra Bartolomeo, Veronese, Botticelli and Bellini. Look out for La Vierge à l'Enfant Soutenu par un Ange (Mother and Child Supported by an Angel), one of Botticelli's masterpieces. Portrait de l'Homme au Gant (Portrait of the Gloved Man) by Titian matches another in the Louvre. The museum also houses temporary exhibitions. Within the Chapelle Impériale (Imperia…
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Le Grand Café Napoléon
This one-of-a-kind Ajaccio institution scores a perfect 10 on our 'charm-meter' for its mind-blowing decor and refined cuisine. Push beyond the streetside terrace (itself rich in atmosphere) to the august belle époque former ballroom, with its tall mirrors, high ceilings, black-and-white terrazzo floors and soaring cream arches. Despite the classical surroundings, the menu is surprisingly modern, featuring elegantly presented fish and meat dishes. The weekday lunchtime menu du marché represents excellent value.
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Municipal Library
In the left wing of the Musée Fesch and entered via rue du Cardinal Fesch, Ajaccio's Municipal Library , built in 1868, merits a browse. The two lions guarding the entrance (yet another donation by Cardinal Fesch) are modelled on the beasts that stand watch over the tomb of Pope Clement XIII at St Peter's in Rome. Inside, within the 30m-long reading room, uniform leather-bound volumes stretching to the ceiling, wooden ladders and an 18m-long central table speak of serious-minded research.
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Le 20123
This one-of-a-kind place started life in the village of Pila Canale (postcode 20123 – get it?), and when the owner upped sticks to Ajaccio he decided to take the old village with him – water pump, washing line, life-sized dolls in traditional dress, central square et al. It all sounds a bit tacky, and it is (see the website) – but you won't find many more character-filled places in Corsica. Needless to say, the food is 100% authentic, too. There's just a single menu, presented orally.
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Musée National de la Maison Bonaparte
Napoléon spent his first nine years in this house. Ransacked by Corsican nationalists in 1793, requisitioned by English troops from 1794 to 1796, and eventually rebuilt by Napoléon's mother, the house became a place of pilgrimage for French revolutionaries, and visitors are still encouraged to observe suitably hushed tones. It hosts memorabilia of the emperor and his siblings, including a glass medallion containing a lock of his hair. It's closed Monday mornings.
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Musée a Bandera
Tucked away on a little side street, this quirky little museum explores Corsican history up to WWII. Among the highlights are a diorama of the 1769 battle of Ponte Novo that confirmed French conquest of the island, a model of the port of Ajaccio as it was in the same period, and a proclamation by Gilbert Elliot, viceroy of the shortlived Anglo-Corsican kingdom (1794–96). There are also a few worthy panels describing the role of women in Corsican society.
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U Pampasgiolu
The rustic arch-vaulted dining room of this Ajaccio institution is packed with punters nearly every night of the week. They come for the first-rate Corsican food made from carefully chosen ingredients. Go à la carte, or choose from the planche spuntinu (snack selection) or planche de la mer (fish and seafood selection) for a great assortment of Corsican specialities served on wooden platters.
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Au Grandval
Opened in 1892, since when little has changed in Monsieur Fleschi's bar except for the addition of a formica counter 30 years ago. Archive photographs of Ajaccio streets cover the walls and outside you can sit by the palm tree, planted by the owner's grandfather on the 100th anniversary of Napoléon's death and listen to the chatter of the resident parakeet.
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Maison de L'Amande Corse
Maison de L'Amande Corse is a delightfully obsessive, single-product shop that offers almonds from Corsica (the island grows around 60% of the total French production), prepared in every possible way: almond oil, almond powder, cream of almond, almond soap, grilled, salted almonds - and wickedly tempting, delightfully sweet nougatine d'amande.
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L'Altru Versu
Ajaccio's top-notch restaurant belongs to the Mezzacqui brothers (Jean-Pierre front of house, Pierre powering the kitchen), who are passionate gastronomes and excellent singers – they hitch on their guitars and serenade guests each Friday and Saturday night. Their creative cuisine sings in the mouth – what about pork with honey and clementine zests?
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Musée du Capitellu
The Musée du Capitellu is a delightful little museum assembled by M. Paul Ottavi-Sampolo, its owner and curator. It provides a fascinating glimpse into the town's history through the eclectic paintings, porcelain, silverware and objets d'art, assembled over the years by one prominent Ajaccio family.
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Ariadne Plage
With several imitators along this coastal strip, Ariadne Plage was the first of Ajaccio's paillotes; African rhythms playing, planks underfoot, a reed roof above and, below, a sandy beach with bright red umbrellas: blink and you could be beside the Caribbean. The cuisine is equally exotic.
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Boulangerie Galeani
Sweet-lovers will lose all self-control at Boulangerie Galeani – see if you can resist the devilish beignet de Brocciu (Brocciu fritters) and canistrelli (biscuits made with almond, walnuts, lemon or aniseed) served at this longstanding bakery.
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Le Bilboq – Chez Jean Jean
In business for decades, this Ajaccio icon is famous for one thing and one thing only: langouste (lobster), best enjoyed on the oh-so-cute little terrace in a pedestrian street. Knock it all down with a well-chosen Corsican wine, and you'll be in seventh heaven.
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Nave Va
Also offers a cultural tour (adult/child €28/20) and a voyage down to Bonifacio (€58/40), including a four-hour stop on shore.
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Le Petit Train d'Ajaccio
Le Petit Train d'Ajaccio is a tourist 'train' that makes two circuits along Ajaccio's streets: one through the old town and a longer one through the old town and on to Pointe de la Parata. Each leaves on the hour from the kiosk opposite the town hall on place Foch.
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Hél'île de Beauté
Hél'île de Beauté runs helicopter tours of the Sanguinaire islands, Ajaccio bay and the beaches to the south, departing from its base in Tavaco, about 15km from Ajaccio on the Bastia road. Discounts for groups of five or more apply.
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Chez Paulo
There's always a crowd at Chez Paulo and for good reason. Visitors and locals alike watch life go by from its busy terrace and it has a good selection of fresh pasta and pizza. There's live Corsican music at the adjoining Le Son des Guitares.
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Découvertes Naturelles
Découvertes Naturelles offers the same trips to the Scandola reserve (Wednesday and Thursday) in a glass-bottomed boat and to the Îles Sanguinaires (daily, plus a sunset run on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday) at the same rates.
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Casino Municipal
The plush Casino Municipal is fine for a flutter. The more serious gaming room, with roulette and blackjack, opens at 21:30. Visitors are expected to dress 'appropriately' and the two heavies at the door will eye you for appropriacy.
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Opium
Opium, with shops on both sides of the street, offers not a single Corsican product. The owner, herself a victim of the travel bug, instead sells original and striking jewellery and crafts, for the most part from Africa and Asia.
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Le Son des Guitares
Le Son des Guitares puts on local guitar soloists and ensembles. Admission is free and drinks ('renouvables tous les 45 minutes' - fresh purchase required every 45 minutes - says the churlish sign) cost around €5.
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Ajaccio Vision
Ajaccio Vision runs tours of the city's main sights in double decker open-top buses with multilingual commentary, stopping for a break at Pointe de la Parata. Tours depart from opposite the town hall on place Foch.
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Salon Napoléonien
Fans of Napoléon will make a beeline for this museum on the 1st floor of the Hôtel de Ville. It exhibits Napoléonic medals, portraits and busts, as well as a fabulously frescoed ceiling of Napoléon and entourage.
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Municipal Swimming Pool
There are a several beaches to go for a picnic or swim but on cooler days young ones may prefer to splash about in the Municipal Swimming Pool . It's closed in July and August, when everyone heads for the beaches.
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