Things to do in Reims
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Cathédrale Notre Dame
Imagine the egos, extravagance and the over-the-top costumes of a French royal coronation… The focal point of all the bejewelled pomposity was Reims' cathedral, a Gothic edifice begun in 1211 – and mostly completed 100 years later – on a site occupied by churches since the 5th century. The single most famous event to take place here was the coronation of Charles VII, with Joan of Arc at his side, on 17 July 1429. The structure, a Unesco World Heritage Site since 1991, will celebrate its 800th anniversary in 2011. To get the most impressive first view, approach the cathedral from the west, along rue Libergier.
Seriously damaged by artillery and fire during WWI, the 13…
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Basilique St-Rémi
This 121m-long former Benedictine abbey church, a Unesco World Heritage Site, mixes Romanesque elements from the mid-11th century (the worn but stunning nave and transept) with early Gothic features from the latter half of the 12th century (the choir, with a large triforium gallery and, way up top, tiny clerestory windows). It is named in honour of Bishop Remigius, who baptised Clovis and 3000 Frankish warriors in 498. The 12th-century-style chandelier has 96 candles, one for each year of the life of St Rémi, whose tomb (in the choir) is marked by a mausoleum from the mid-1600s. The basilica is situated about 1.5km south-southeast of the tourist office; take the Citadine …
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Place Drouet d'Erlon
Lit up like Las Vegas after dark, Reims' pedestrianised main square draws locals in the mood for a bite, a beer or a bit of shopping. Southeast of the Subé Fountain (built in 1907) – crowned by a gleaming gold statue of Winged Victory – is Galerie d'Erlon, a glass-roofed arcade where you can bask in the shopping vibe of yesteryear. The 12th- to 14th-century Église St-Jacques, the city's only remaining medieval parish church, has some 1960s stained glass that's so awful it has to be seen to be believed. The blue and white windows in the nave were added in 2010.
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Musée des Beaux-Arts
This institution's rich collection, housed in an 18th-century abbey, boasts one of only four versions of Jacques-Louis David's world-famous The Death of Marat (yes, the bloody corpse in the bathtub), 27 works by Camille Corot (only the Louvre has more), 13 portraits by German Renaissance painters Cranach the Elder and the Younger, lots of Barbizon School landscapes, some art-nouveau creations by Émile Gallé, and two works each by Monet, Gauguin and Pissarro.
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Café du Palais
Run by the same family since 1930, this old-time café is the place to see and be seen, at least if you're a bon bourgeois or a theatre type. Decoration includes wall mirrors, an art deco skylight and an extraordinary collection of bric-a-brac that ranges from the tacky to the inspired. The shoes hanging upside down from the dark red ceiling and the life-sized statue of a naked woman with horse's hoofs and elephant tusks – is it art? Is it kitsch?
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Taittinger
The headquarters of Taittinger is an excellent place to come for a clear, straightforward presentation on how Champagne is actually made – there's no claptrap about 'the Champagne mystique' here. Parts of the cellars occupy 4th-century Roman stone quarries; other bits were excavated by 13th-century Benedictine monks. No need to reserve. Situated 1.5km southeast of Reims centre; take the Citadine 1 or 2 bus to the St-Niçaise or Salines stops.
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Pommery
No visit to Reims would be complete without a tour of a champagne cave (cellar) and eight maisons (houses or producers) offer guided tours of their premises that end, naturellement, with a tasting session. Of the Reims trinity, Mumm is most easily accessible from the centre, while Taittinger and Pommery are under 2km to the southeast.
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Mumm
Mumm (pronounced 'moom'), the only maison in central Reims, was founded in 1827 and is now the world's third-largest producer (almost eight million bottles a year). Engaging and edifying one-hour tours take you through cellars filled with 25 million bottles of fine bubbly. Tours that include tutored tastings of special vintages cost €15 to €20. Wheelchair accessible. Phone ahead if possible.
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Halles du Boulingrin
The vaulted Halles du Boulingrin were a symbol of Reims’ emergence from the destruction of WWI when they began service as the city’s main food market in 1929. Closed in 1988, they will again shelter food stalls – as well as art expositions (on the mezzanine) and cultural events – starting on Valentine’s Day 2012. The peculiar name is derived from the English ‘bowling green’ (as in lawn bowling).
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Fine Arts Museum
The rich collections of the Musée des Beaux-Arts include one of only four versions of Jacques-Louis David's world-famous Death of Marat (yes, the bloody one in the bathtub), 27 works by Camille Corot (only the Louvre has more), lots of Barbizon School landscapes, Art Nouveau creations by Émile Gallé and two works each by Monet, Gauguin and Pissarro.
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Hall Place
Relax, sip bubbly and look fabulous at this trendy wine bar, a huge hit with Reims' young and beautiful set. Streetside, chest-high butcher-block tables look out on the curves of Halles du Boulingrin, while at the back there's a wine shop. Lunch is served daily except Sunday; dinner is available on Tuesday, Thursday and Friday (€10.50 to €23).
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Glue Pot
Only the French genius for eclecticism could have created this Irish pub, which doubles as a Tex-Mex restaurant that serves burgers (the Big Boy has an egg on top) and pizzas to patrons seated on bright red banquettes under fake Tiffany lamps. The menu is in English with French translations. Believe it or not, the food is pretty good!
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Palais du Tau
This former archbishop's residence, constructed in 1690, was where French princes stayed before their coronations – and where they hosted sumptuous banquets afterwards. Now a museum, it displays truly exceptional statuary, liturgical objects and tapestries from the cathedral, some in the impressive, Gothic-style Salle de Tau (Great Hall).
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Musée de la Reddition
The original Allied battle maps are still affixed to the walls of US General Dwight D Eisenhower's headquarters, where Nazi Germany, represented by General Alfred Jodl, surrendered unconditionally at 2.41am on 7 May 1945. Displays include military uniforms and photographs. A 12-minute film is screened in French, English and German.
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Le Bocal
Tastefully decorated in the colours of the North Atlantic, this unpretentious fish and seafood restaurant has just five tables and two hot plats du jour (dishes of the day). Enter through the fish shop, where odours of the sea will engulf your senses. Three hot oysters cost €6 and a glass of Champagne is €8.
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Waïda
A salon de thé (tearoom) and confectioner with old-fashioned mirrors, mosaics and marble. A good place to pick up a box of biscuits roses (€3.90), traditionally nibbled with Champagne (€6 to €7.50 a glass). The religieuses (cream-filled puff pastries; €2.75) are divine!
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Le Tigre
Sprawling and laid-back, this bar-disco, about 1km east of the cathedral, has more wall textures than it does beers on tap (six). There's live music starting at 21:00 on Friday and Saturday (but not in July and August). At 23:00 from Thursday to Saturday Le Tigre becomes a disco.
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Le Continental
Built in the early 20th century, this classy, marble-floored place serves up panoramic views and classic French dishes such as magret de canard (duck breast fillet); seafood is the speciality from September to May. A great spot for a midafternoon glass of champagne.
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Église St-Jacques
The 12th- to 14th-century Église St-Jacques, the city’s only remaining medieval parish church, has some 1960s stained glass that’s so awful it has to be seen to be believed. The blue and white windows in the nave were added in 2010.
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Musée Hôtel Le Vergeur
In a 13th- to 16th-century town house, highlights include a series of furnished period rooms (kitchen, smoking room, Napoléon III's bedroom), engravings by Albrecht Dürer and a stunning Renaissance facade facing the interior garden.
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Vins CPH
Shop for wines the way savvy locals do. At the end of the courtyard, head down into the cellar for a huge selection (some 1100 vintages are on offer), including over 200 Champagnes (€14 to €900 – the priciest bottle is a Krug).
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Bibliothèque
Thanks to a donation from the US-based Carnegie Foundation, the lobby of the Bibliothèque boasts gorgeous 1920s mosaics, stained glass, frescos and an extraordinary chandelier – duck inside for a look!
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Brasserie Le Boulingrin
A genuine, old-time brasserie – the decor and zinc bar date back to 1925 – whose ambience and cuisine make it an enduring favourite. From September to June, the culinary focus is on fruits de mer (seafood).
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Cathedral Tower
Feeling as strong as Goliath? (Look for his worn figure up on the west facade, held in place with metal straps.) Then consider climbing 250 steps up the cathedral tower on a one-hour tour. Book at the Palais du Tau.
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Le Foch
Described as 'one of France's best fish restaurants' by the food critic Michael Edwards, elegant Le Foch – holder of one Michelin star – serves up cuisine that's as beautiful as it is delicious.
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