Run by the same family since 1930, this old-time café is the place to see and be seen, at least if you're a bon bourgeois or a theatre type. Decoration includes wall mirrors, an art deco skylight and an extraordinary collection of bric-a-brac that ranges from the tacky to the inspired. The shoes hanging upside down from the dark red ceiling and the life-sized statue of a naked woman with horse's hoofs and elephant tusks – is it art? Is it kitsch?